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Posts Tagged ‘French food’

While rummaging through a relative’s bookshelf, we stumbled upon an old cookbook called Cooking with Katie Stewart and took a few recipes along on a recent trip to France — and we’re so glad we did. With some cuisses de poulet from a local butcher and the basic equipment in a holiday kitchen, we cooked a simple tarragon chicken that was so delicious, we made it again as soon as we got home. Proof that sometimes the best recipes are the ones you nearly overlook.

Wine Suggestion: Go classic and open a Chardonnay with a bit of oak — I dare you. It works so well with the tarragon and chicken. Tonight, we went with an old favourite: the Neudorf Tiritiri Chardonnay. Done.

Tarragon Chicken – serves 6

  • 4 tsp dried tarragon
  • 2 tbsp lemon juice
  • 6 chicken joints (we used legs)
  • 50g butter
  • 300ml hot chicken stock
  • 300ml double cream
  • a handful of flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped

Put the dried tarragon into a small bowl and pour over the lemon juice, then leave to soak for 30 minutes.

Season the chicken with salt and black pepper.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan, then add the chicken pieces and slowly brown them on all sides (this may be easier in two batches). When the chicken is browned all over, about 15 minutes, put all of the chicken into the pan.

Season the chicken again and pour over the tarragon and lemon juice mixture, then add the hot stock and cream. Cover with a lid and simmer gently for about 45 minutes or until the chicken is really tender.

Lift the chicken on to a serving plate and pour over the sauce (you can strain it if you have a sieve). Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve.

(Original recipe from Cooking with Katie Steward, Hamlyn, 1974).

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So simple and yet so lovely. The bit that takes time can be done earlier in the day and it’s fairly easy to finish off later. Serve with rice or whatever you fancy.

Wine Suggestion: We like how the stonefruit characters, mixed with slightly lower acidity from a southern Rhône white goes with the gentle and elegant nature of this dish. The Grapillon d’Or Vacqueyras white is a good example and it’s fleshy character and minerally/nutty textures are just perfect.

Chicken Fricassee – serves 6 to 8

  • 2kg whole chicken

FOR THE POACHING LIQUID:

  • 750ml chicken stock
  • 2 banana shallots, sliced
  • 2 celery sticks, sliced
  • 8 tsp black peppercorns
  • ½ lemon
  • a large bulb of garlic, cut in half horizontallly

FOR THE SAUCE:

  • a large knob of butter
  • 500g banana shallots, thinly sliced
  • 3 sticks celery, finely diced
  • 200ml double cream
  • 3 tbsp chopped chives
  • 3 tbsp chopped flatleaf parsley

Put the whole chicken into a large, deep saucepan. Add all of the poaching liquid ingredients and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer very gently for 1 hour, or until the chicken is cooked. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the liquid.

When the chicken is cold, take the chicken out and remove the meat from the carcass – discard the bones and skin. Tear the meat into large pieces and set aside. Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a large jug. Squeeze the garlic from the skin into a small bowl and mash with a fork. Discard the poaching veg, lemon and peppercorns.

To make the sauce, melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallots and celery and cook for about 10 minutes or until soft. Add the mashed garlic and fry for 10 seconds, then pour in the vermouth and boil to reduce by half. Add 600ml of the poaching liquid, bring to the boil and boil hard for 3 minutes.

Add 2 tbsp of the remaining poaching liquid to the cornflour and stir until smooth. Add this to the pan and cook until the sauce has thickened. Add the cream and cooked chicken and gently reheat until hot. Add the fresh herbs and season well with salt and black pepper.

(Original recipe from Mary’s Foolproof Dinners, BBC Books, 2024.)

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You can buy duck confit in tins locally but they tend to be much cheaper in France so if you’re lucky enough to go there (or know someone else who is going), stock up! You will have the prep done for many delicious dishes, like this one.

Wine Suggestion: A classic French dish needs a classic French wine. We suspect red Burgundy would be great, however we didn’t have any to hand so instead opened a bottle of Chateau Lascaux Pic St Loup “les Nobles Pierres”. A classic Syrah-Grenache blend but from prime vineyards in the Languedoc where Duck dishes reign supreme. Juicy, brambly and layered with velvety and characterful tannins.

Parmentier de Confit de Canard – serves 4 to 6

  • 4 Confit duck legs (1 large tin – it says on the tin how many legs are inside)
  • 4 shallots, chopped
  • a few fresh thyme sprigs, leaves stripped
  • 175ml red wine
  • 200ml chicken stock
  • a handful of flatleaf parsley
  • 800g potatoes, cut into 5cm chunks
  • 100-125ml warm milk
  • 150g-200g Comté cheese, grated

Warm the confit duck legs over a gentle heat to release the fat, then pour the fat into clean jam jars for future roast potatoes. You will need to keep 2 tbsp aside for this dish.

Remove the skin from the duck legs and discard. Remove the meat from the bones and shred it with two forks, discarding any bones and gristle.

Heat 2 tbsp of the duck fat in a pan, add the shallots, thyme and plenty of black pepper. Allow the shallots to brown gently, then add the wine and stock, then bring to the boil. Cook for a few minutes, then add the duck meat and chopped parsley. Stir and set aside.

Heat the oven to 210C/Fan 190C.

Boil the potatoes in salty water until tender. Drain them well, then add the warm milk and mash until smooth. Season with salt and a big pinch of black pepper.

Grease a 18 x 28cm baking dish with a little duck fat, then pile in the meat and cover with the mashed potato. Sprinkle the grated cheese on top and bake for about 25 minutes or until browned and bubbling.

Serve with carrots and greens.

(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France, BBC Books, 2019.)

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