Just like the real thing but without the béchamel sauce – surprisingly good!
Cheat’s croque monsieur – serves 2
4 tbsp crème fraîche
100g Gruyère, grated
a little freshly grated nutmeg
soft butter
4 slices of sourdough bread
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 thick slices of ham
green salad, to serve
Heat the oven to 220C/Fan 200C.
Mix the crème fraîche with the grated cheese, then season with nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Butter the slices of bread on one side, then place on a baking tray, buttered-side up. Toast under a hot grill until golden.
Spread the untoasted side of two of the slices with mustard and top with the ham and half the cheese mixture. Put the other piece of toast on top, toasted side-up, and spread over the rest of the cheese mixture. Season with black pepper.
Put the tray into the oven and bake for 10-12 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Serve with a green salad.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Simple Suppers, BBC Books, 2023.)
We don’t subscribe to much on Substack but we make an exception for Debora Robertson. Debora writes about life in France and recommends a dinner party dish with an easy starter (usually shop-bought) every week. We’re always happy to see her next post and we highly recommend her recipe for pork estouffade – a French pork cassrole with honey and carrots. Minimal effort and great to share. Serve with mashed potatoes and cabbage.
Wine Suggestion: From Marjorie Gallet’s superlative Roc des Anges is her “Llum“, an insightful and crystalline Grenache Gris & Macabeu blend that sings with ripe stonefruit flavours and a minerally, salty backbone. Just perfect with a little richness and aromatic flavours from this dish.
Pork estouffade – serves 6
1.6-1.8kg boned and rolled joint of pork, with some fat on and skin/rind removed
3 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, thinly sliced
3 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
6 cloves of garlic, halved, remove any green bits and thinly sliced
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp honey
1 tsp paprika
1 bottle white wine
a pinch of saffron strands, soaked in a splash of warm water
4 medium carrots, peeled and halved lengthways
80g pitted green olives
1 unwaxed orange – you will need to peel a strip of zest and then juice
about 10g of parsley leaves and fine stalks, roughly chopped
Pat the pork dry with kitchen paper and season all over with salt and pepper.
Warm the olive oil in a large heavy casserole ove a medium-high heat. Brown the pork all over – about 10 minutes, then remove to a plate and lower the heat.
Add the onions, bay leaves and thyme and sauté gently, stirring occasionally, until very soft and translucent but without browning, about 15 minutes.
Add the garlic to the pan and stir for a minute, then add the tomatoes, mustard, honey, and paprika and stir well. Pour in the wine, saffron and soaking water and simmer for 10 minutes.
Return the pork to the pan, along with any juices. Cover and simmer very gently for 2½ hours, turning the pork every 30 minutes. Add the carrot, olives, orange zest and juice. Taste and season if needed, then simmer very gently, uncovered, for another hour – check occasionally that the pork hasn’t stuck. The dish is ready when the pork is very tender and the sauce has thickened.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 10 minutes, then stir in the parsley. Remove the string form the pork and carve it into thick slices. Serve with some sauce, the carrots, mashed potatoes and cabbage.
(Original recipe from Lickedspoon with Debora Robertson, Substack, 6 Jan 2024)
We were initially attracted to this as it is marinated in Riesling, a favoured grape in our house, plus the unusual combination of three meats plus bacon. Classically country French in style, this has no airs or graces in appearance, but is jam packed full of flavour and richness. It serves loads of people and we’d suggest having a side of greens. Also, like many other long cooked stews this tastes great the following day and freezes well.
Wine Suggestion: Courtesy of a very generous friend who came to dinner, we were treated to a delightful comparison of two old bottles of Rene Rostaing’s Côte Rôtie: the La Landonne and Côte Blonde. Both an excellent match to the dish and lovely wines. The Côte Blond was the favoured bottle, but both showed very well. We’d recommend searching for a good Syrah if something of this calibre doesn’t come to hand. Thanks David for these bottles!
Alsatian beef, lamb and pork stew – serves 8-10
750g boneless pork belly, cut into 4cm cubes
750g boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 4cm cubes
750g chuck steak, cut into 4cm cubes
2 onions, sliced
250g carrots, sliced
2 leeks, cut in half lengthways, washed and sliced
500ml Sylvaner or Riesling white wine
2 kg potatoes, sliced into 5mm thick rounds
100g unsmoked bacon, cut into 1cm pieces
250ml beef stock
a handful of flatleaf parsley, roughly chopped, to garnish
Place all of the meat (but not the bacon), onions, carrots and leeks in a large non-metallic bowl and pour over the wine. Cover and leave in the fridge overnight.
Heat the oven to 190C/Fan 170C.
Arrange a quarter of the sliced potatoes over the base of a very large casserole dish.
Drain the meat and veg in a colander over a bowl and reserve the liquid.
Scatter some veg over the potatoes, then add som bacon pieces and chunks of meat. Season with salt and black pepper, then add another layer of potato, more veg, bacon, meat and seasoning. Keep layering like this and finsih with a final layer of potatoes. Don’t be tempted to hold back on the salt as the dish needs liberal seasoning (about 2tsp in total).
Pour over the reserved marinade juices and beef stock, then cover the casserole with a tight lid and put in the oven.
Bake for about 3 hours or until the meat is tender. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France, BBC Books, 2019.)
We don’t often cook classic French dishes at home, preferring to sit in a bistro in blissful ignorance (or denial) of the copious amounts of butter we’re consuming … there’s a reason why those dishes are so tasty. However we’ve been revisiting “Roast Chicken and Other Stories” by Simon Hopkinson and decided to give this simple dish a go. Yes, lots of butter, but so very worth it for the tender chicken and delicious sauce. Serve with potatoes and some green beans.
Wine Suggestion: This particular dish works really well with red Burgundy or Beaujolais.
Poulet sauté au vinaigre – serves 4
8 chicken pieces (we used thighs but you could also joint a whole chicken)
100g butter
2 tbsp olive oil
6 very ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (cut a little cross in the bottom of each and cover with boiling water, leave for 1 minute, then drain and the skins will peel off easily)
250ml top-quality red wine vinegar
250ml chicken stock
2 heaped tbsp chopped parsley
Season the chicken pieces well with salt and black pepper.
Heat 4 tbsp of the butter and the olive oil in a shallow casserole or deep frying pan until just turning brown.
Add the chicken pieces and fry gently, turning, until golden brown all over.
Add the chopped tomatoes and continue cooking until the tomato has lost its moisture and turned dark red and sticky. This will take a while so don’t be tempted to rush it.
Add the vinegar and simmer until almost evaporated, then add the stock and simmer again to reduce by half.
Remove the chicken pieces to a warm serving dish and keep warm. Whisk the rest of the butter into the sauce to make it nice and glossy. Add half the parsley, then pour over the chicken and sprinkle with the rest of the parsley.
(Original recipe from Roast Chicken and Other Stories by Simon Hopkinson, Ebury Press, 1994.)
The rich sauce here is inspired by the sherry-like Savignin from the Jura. It’s a while since we’ve been there so we had to settle for dry sherry which still made a delicious sauce. Green beans and some new potatoes are perfect on the side.
Wine Suggestion: We think this works with a mountain wine of some sort, where you get the bracing freshness of altitude but can also get depth and body to stand up to the flavoursome sauce. In the absence of a Savignin in the fridge we turned to a Côtes du Jura Chardonnay by Chevasu-Fassenet. Rich, creamy, with hints of oak and a layer of oxidative flor mingled in with the fruit giving this a grip and extra zip.
Sautéed sea troutwith sherry sauce – serves 2
50g butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
60ml dry sherry
300ml chicken stock
100g full-fat crème fraîche
½ tsp dry sherry
1 tsp finely chopped parsley
a pinch of sugar
2 tbsp olive oil
sea trout fillets, enough for 2
Heat 30g of the butter in a pan and gently cook the shallot until softened. Add the sherry and chicken stock, then reduced by three-quarters. Whisk in the crème fraîche and reduced for a couple of minutes, then whisk in the rest of the butter.
Reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a spoon, then take off the heat and add the extra ½ tsp of sherry and parsley. Season with a pinch of salt and sugar and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the trout, skin-side down, for about 4 minutes. Turn when the skin is crispy and finish cooking briefly on the other side.
Serve with the sauce, some green beans and new potaotes.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France, BBC Books, 2019.)
This is restaurant-style risotto which is packed full of lobster flavour. The shells are used to flavour the stock and it’s finished with a delicious reduction, the kitchen smells amazing! We associate risottos with Italy but this is proper French food, full of butter and brandy. Recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France.
Wine Suggestion: This is a rich dish that needs a wine that is fresh and flavoursome as opposed to something equally rich. Our go to wine would be an oaked Chardonnay in this case, but it doesn’t work as well as you’d think. A toasty Champagne or good bottle fermented sparkling with good age on lees is a fine choice though, and tonight we had treat of the Champagne Valentin Leflaive cuvée CA/15/40. A new project by Olivier Leflaive from Burgundy made with 100% Chardonnay from Cramant and Avize, 45 months on lees and only 4g dosage. An exciting debut and a good match to boot.
Poached Lobster Risotto – serves 2 as a main or 4 as a starter
1 cooked lobster
30ml olive oil
1 shallot, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
200g risotto rice
150ml dry white wine
1 tbsp butter
fresh tarragon sprigs, to serve
FOR THE LOBSTER STOCK AND REDUCTION
lobster shell, chopped
1 onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped (no need to peel)
50g butter
100ml dry white wine
500g tomatoes, roughly chopped
a small handful of tarragon, roughtly chopped
1.5 litres fish stock
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp Cognac
a squeeze of lemon juice
Remove the meat from the lobster and keep the shell for the stock. Slice the body into chunky slices and keep the meat from the claws as chunky as possible.
For the stock, put the lobster shell in a large pot with the onion, garlic and 20g of the butter. Cook for about 5 minutes over a medium heat, then add the wine, tomatoes, tarragon and stock and bring to the boil. Add salt and simmer for 40 minutes. Pass the stock through a fine sieve over another pot and throw away the solid ingredients. Put 200ml of the stock aside for the reduction and keep the rest warm over a low heat.
Heat the oil in a pan, add the shallot and garlic and cook until soft. Add the rice and stir until glistening with the shallots and oil, then add the wine and let it bubble until absorbed. Add the hot stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring until absorbed before adding another. Keep going like this until the rice is al dente, then season.
Meanwhile, put the reserved 200ml of stock into a saucepan with the Cognac and bring to the boil. Cook until reduced by three-quarters, then whisk in the rest of the butter (30g) to make a sauce that coats the back of a spoon. Add a squeeze of lemon juice.
Heat a tbsp of butter in a frying pan. When it’s foaming, add the lobster meat and warm it through. Serve the risotto topped with lobster and spoon the reduction around it. Finish with some tarragon sprigs.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France, BBC Books, 2019.)
It’s bean a while since we’ve been in France, but when we were there we stocked up on dried morels (and ceps) at the Saint-Cyprien market, and bought as much wine as they would let us have at Domaine Labet in the Jura. Creamy mushroom sauce and chardonnay from the Jura is a magic combination! We served this with roast potatoes made with a variety called carolus from McNally Family Farm – they make amazing roasties!
Wine Suggestion: We were fortunate to find a couple of different vintages of Labet’s En Chalasse Chardonnay which comes from very old vineyard plots. Tonight we opened the 2015 which showed the effect of a warm vintage with a broad and lifted ripe apple character and hints of nuts and spices. More gentle acidity than usual but well in balance with hints of skin contact and phenolic textures on the palate.
Chicken fricassée with morels – serves 4
20g dried morels
40g unsalted butter
4 boneless chicken breasts with the skin on
1 banana shallot, finely chopped
90g chestnut mushrooms, quartered
100ml Noilly Prat or dry sherry
130ml chicken stock
300g full-fat crème fraîche
Soak the morels in 200ml of tepid water for about 15 minutes, then drain through a sieve over a bowl to catch the liquid. Strain the liquid and keep 75ml for the sauce. Rinse the morels under cold water to remove any grit, then dry with kitchen paper and cut in half lengthways.
Melt half the butter in a large sauté pan and fry the chicken, skin-side down, for about 3 minutes or until nicely browned. Turn the chicken pieces over and continue to brown for a few minutes on the other side. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside.
Add the rest of the butter to the pan, then fry the shallot until softened. Add the morels and chestnut mushrooms and fry for a few minutes. Add the Noilly Prat or sherry, the reserved soaking liquid and the stock, then bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer for a few minutes.
Add the crème fraîche and stir until melted into the sauce, then put the chicken back in, along with any juices on the plate. Cover the pan with a lid and cook over a medium heat for about 8 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. Season with salt and lots of black pepper.
(Original recipe from Secret France by Rick Stein, BBC Books, 2019)
Otherwise known as garlic mayonnaise and a super handy condiment to have up your sleeve and infinitely better than most supermarket versions.
Aioli – serves 4 to 6
1 clove of garlic, crushed
3 egg yolks
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
250ml mild olive oil or sunflower oil
a squeeze of lemon juice
Put the garlic in a food processor with the egg yolks and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper (we prefer freshly ground white pepper).
Turn the food processor on and start drizzling in the oil, just a few drops at a time. When it starts to emulsify, you can start adding the oil in a slow, steady stream until you have added it all and you have a mayonnaise. Check the seasoning and add a squeeze of lemon to taste.
(Recipe from The Hairy Bikers’ Mediterranean Adventure by Si King & Dave Myers, Seven Dials, 2017)
This is a cheat’s version of the French classic and makes a great brunch/lunch.
Croque Madame – serves 2
4 large slices of sourdough
Dijon mustard
100g grated gruyère
4 slices thick-cut ham
butter
4 tbsp crème fraîche
2 eggs
Spread the sourdough with a thin layer of mustard on one side, then fill the sandwiches with half the gruyère and the ham. Spread the outside of the sandwiches with butter.
Heat a non-stick frying pan and fry the sandwiches on both sides until golden.
Mix the crème fraîche with the rest of the gruyère and spread over the top of the sandwiches. Put under a hot grill until the cheese bubbles and starts to brown.
Serve with a fried or poached egg on the top.
(Original recipe by Janine Ratcliffe in Olive Magazine, May 2015)
We made this on the first weekend of social distancing as our dinner date was cancelled. We were all in a bit of shock but reassured ourselves by planning all of the things that we could cook while spending time at home. We loved this recipe by Diana Henry and the sauce is absolutely delicious. We served with some purple sprouting broccoli and roast potatoes. Diana suggests green beans or Savoy cabbage and waxy potatoes.
Wine suggestion: Our inspiration tonight was the Loire, being the closest wine region to Brittany, which specialises in apples (cider & Calvados). We chose a bottle of Chateau du Hureau’s Foudre, a Chenin Blanc that is fermented and aged in large oak barrels; full of appley flavours alongside a refined texture and enough body and a freshness to match the rich, creamy dish.
Roast chicken with a Breton onion sauce – serves 6
1.8kg chicken
25g unsalted butter
4 thyme sprigs, leaves stripped
FOR THE ONIONS:
30g unsalted butter, slightly softened
450g onions, finely chopped
FOR THE SAUCE:
300ml full cream milk
a slice of onion
a few parsley stalks
4 black peppercorns
a bay leaf
30g unsalted butter
30g plain flour
nutmeg, for grating
3 tbsp crème fraîche
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp Calvados
Preheat your oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5.
Prep the chicken first by mashing the butter and thyme leaves together with some salt and pepper. Loosen the skin over the breast of the chicken with your hands. This is easy to do but be gentle so you don’t tear the skin. Spread half of the butter under the skin with your hands, then spread the rest over the outside. Season all over with salt and pepper and put into a roasting tin. Cook for 20 minutes per 500g plus an extra 10 minutes.
Melt the butter for the onions in a heavy-based pan, then add the onions. Stir to coat them in the butter, add 2 tbsp of water, then cover and cook over a very low heat until completely soft. Check them now and then and add a bit more water if needed. Set aside until needed.
Remove the chicken from the oven, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest for 15 minutes.
To make the sauce put the milk, onion, parsley and peppercorns and bay leaf in a saucepan and slowly bring to just under the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes, then strain into a jug.
Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan, add the flour and stir over a medium-low heat for a minute. Remove the pan from the heat, then start adding the strained milk, a little at a time, stirring until smooth. Season and add a little grated nutmeg. Return the pan to the heat and stir until boiling. Turn the heat down and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the onions and their juices, the crème fraîche, mustard and Calvados and taste for seasoning. Serve the chicken with the sauce and veg on the side.
(Original recipe from A Bird in the Hand by Diana Henry, Mitchell Beazley, 2015.)
We adore this cut of beef but it’s not always easy to get in Irish butchers. Talk to your butcher in advance and tell them you want a piece of onglet or hanger steak – they should be able to order it for you, and it’s much cheaper than some other cuts.
We cut this across the grain and it’s meltingly tender so you can be brave and serve “blue” like we did here, but it also works well at your choice of doneness if you prefer.
Wine Suggestion: we think this combination of meltingly tender beef and the buttery shallots in red wine goes with Rhône reds – Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre et al; either as a blend or Syrah alone. Tonight we had one of those insider wines, a Côtes du Rhône labelled under Jean-Paul Daumen’s name. He’s the owner-winemaker at Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a superb domaine with an enviable reputation. The wines under his name are from a mix of vineyards from the estate and friends, all farmed organically and biodynamically by Jean-Paul and made with just as much care as his own domaine. The result … great value and a delicious pairing.
Hanger Steak with Shallots – L’onglet à l’échalote – serves 4
60g unsalted butter
800g onglet/hanger steak (you will probably get 2 long pieces)
250g shallot, finely sliced
1 thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
125ml red wine
100ml beef stock
watercress, to garnish
As soon as you get home from the butchers put your steak into a dish and sprinkle generously with salt. Then put in the fridge until you need it but take it out of the fridge about an hour before you want to cook it.
Heat a large frying pan over a high heat. Add a knob of the butter and when it starts to melt add your steak. You might have to cook it in batches depending on the size of your pan. A rough guide is to cook for about 2 minutes on each side for very rare steak or longer if you prefer it more well done. This is dependent on the size of the steak, so you should do the finger test on the meat and go with gut feel. Put the steak onto a warm plate, cover with foil and keep warm while it rests.
Melt half of the remaining butter in the same frying pan and add the shallots, thyme and bay leaf. Cook over a low heat for about 10 minutes or until softened. Add the red wine and the stock, turn the heat up to high and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Season with salt and lots of black pepper, throw away the herbs. Pour the meat juices from the resting plate into the sauce and whisk in the remaining butter to make a thick, glossy sauce.
Slice the steak across the grain into thick slices and serve on top of the shallots with some watercress on the side.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France, BBC Books, 2019.)
To do the finger test for steak you compare the resistance of the cooking meat to pressing the ball of your palm with a finger from the other hand
Well hello there, we have been very quiet for the last few months while our new kitchen and other house renovations are happening. We had really hoped to be back to normal by now but we’re still kitchen hopping amongst our very generous (and patient) family & friends. So normal service will hopefully resume very soon and in the meantime here’s a fab recipe for a super rich ratatouille by Barney Desmazery for BBC Good Food. We served with some steak off the barbecue but it is also great on it’s own with some toasted bread.
Wine Suggestion: we love choosing southern French reds when eating this dish and find that Syrah, Grenache, Mourvédre and Carignan (either on their own or as a blend) just work. Tonight it was the superb Faugères “les Bancels” from Domaine Cébène which is elegant, effortless and wonderfully long on the finish.
Ratatouille – serves 6
3 red peppers, quartered and seeds removed
a handful of basil, separate the leaves and stalks (you will need both)
a large sprig of thyme
2 tbsp of olive oil, plus extra for frying
2 courgettes (any colour or a mix), roughly chopped
1 aubergine, chopped into large chunks
1 red onion, roughly chopped
4 cloves of garlic, sliced
a pinch of sugar
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 x 400g tins cherry tomatoes
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
grilled sourdough, to serve
Put the pieces of pepper onto a baking tray and place under a hot grill until blackened. Tip them into a bowl, cover and leave to cool. Peel the skin off the peppers, then cut into strips and toss back into the juices in the bowl.
Tie the basil stalks and thyme together with kitchen string.
Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 4.
Heat the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole dish and fry the courgettes and aubergine for 15 minutes or until browned. It is easiest to do this in batches, adding a little of the oil each time.
Remove the courgette and aubergine from the pan and set aside. Add a drizzle more oil, then add the onion and cook for 15 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add the garlic and sizzle for a minute. Scatter with sugar, then leave for a minute to caramelise before adding the vinegar. Stir in the cooked veg and pepper juice, season well, then pour over the cans of tomatoes and bring to a simmer.
Add the tied herbs to the dish, cover, and cook in the oven for an hour. Remove the lid and return to the oven for a further 30 minutes or until reduced and jammy. Leave to cool until just warm, then stir through most of the basil leaves and the extra virgin olive oil. Scatter the rest of the basil over the top and serve with the toasted sourdough.
Reblochon season begins in May so it’s time to indulge in a Tartiflette. If you want to try a sophisticated version then we recommend the Chicken Tartiflette we posted this time last year but it does take a bit of time and effort. This one is much quicker and almost as tasty.
Wine Suggestion: We’d suggest an oaked Chardonnay that has a good balance between fruit and texture, but not too tropical or oily. We quite often go for the Rustenberg from Stellenbosch, or one of the Javillier Bourgogne Blancs as we have good access to these and they over-deliver in quality, but there are many other options you could choose.
Tartiflette – serves 4
500g new potatoes, sliced into 1cm thick slices
200g rindless streaky bacon, cut into 2 cm cubes
1 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, finely sliced
1 clove of garlic, crushed
100g cheddar or gruyere, grated
a couple of sprigs of thyme, leaves removed and chopped
200ml cream
200g Reblochon cheese, sliced into thin wedges
Preheat the oven to 220C.
Cook the potato slices in boiling salted water until tender – start checking after 10 minutes, then drain.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the bacon bits until light brown and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Cook the onion in the bacon fat for a few minutes until softened then add the garlic and cook for another minute.
Spread the cooked potatoes over the bottom of a baking dish. Scatter over the onion and garlic, then the cheddar cheese, thyme and bacon. Pour over the cream, season, and top with the slices of Reblochon.
Bake in the hot oven for 15-20 minute or until browned and bubbling.
Coq au vin was on every restaurant menu when we were kids. Not so much now, but still a much-loved French classic. You can also still find it on many set menus in France – La Formule – and rightly so.
Wine Suggestion: As this is a classic French dish we would suggest going French with the wine too. For something decadent, a good red Burgundy, our choice would be Gevrey-Chambertin; for the thoughtful choice a really good Beaujolais, like Domaine Rochette’s Morgon Côte du Py; or something a little rustic and country: Côtes du Rhône. This last was our choice tonight with the excellent Coste-Chaude Madrigal CdR Villages Visan.
Coq au Vin – serves 4
4 tbsp olive oil
100g pancetta cubes
150g small button mushrooms
12 small pickling onions or small shallots
4 tbsp plain flour
8 chicken pieces (a mixture of thighs & drumsticks), bone-in but skin removed
4 tbsp brandy
300ml red wine
300ml chicken stock
1 tbsp redcurrant jelly
1 bouquet garni
Heat 2 tbsp of the oil over a medium heat in a large, deep, frying pan. Fry the pancetta, mushrooms and onions for 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the pan.
Heat the remaining 2 tbsp of oil in the same pan. Season 1 tbsp of the flour and put onto a plate. Dust the chicken pieces with the flour and shake of any excess. Fry the chicken for 3-5 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Do this in batches so you don’t overcrowd the pan. Add the brandy, take off the heat, and light with a match to cook off the alcohol.
Remove the chicken from the pan and add to the vegetables and pancetta. Add the remaining 3tbsp of flour to the pan and stir for 1 minute. Add the wine, stock, redcurrant jelly and bouquet garni. If it seems too thick you can add a little more water.
Return the chicken, pancetta and veg to the pan, and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer, then cover and cook for 40-45 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.
Serve with potatoes and seasonal veg.
(Original recipe from Family Kitchen Cookbook by Caroline Bretherton, DK, 2013.)
A classic dish for good reason. We’ve tried many versions over the years but always come back this simple recipe. Serve with mash and greens.
Despite the name, we prefer juicier reds for this dish and often veer toward the Rhone or similar. This time it was a Merlot from Chile and as long as the wine is decent you won’t spoil the dish; don’t throw in bad wine as you will notice this.
Wine Suggestion: A Northern Rhone Syrah by Jean-Michel Gerin brought by our guests was a very good match. This was followed by a Grapillon d’Or Gigondas, an equally good match.
Beef Bourguignon – serves 6
2 tbsp olive oil
750g cubed braising or stewing steak
3 tbsp seasoned flour
9 shallots, peeled and halved
3 garlic cloves, halved
125g lardons/cubed pancetta
75cl bottle red wine
2 sprigs thyme
1 tbsp tomato purée
250g button mushrooms
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4/Fan 160C.
Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole with a lid. Toss the meat in the flour then cook in batches until well browned. Remove each batch with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Add shallots, garlic and lardons/pancetta and cook for 5 minutes until golden brown. Return all the meat to the pot, pour in the wine and bring to the boil. Stir in the thyme, tomato purée and some seasoning.
Cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 1 hour. Add the mushrooms, cover, and return to the oven for 30-40 minutes or until the meat is tender.
(Original recipe by Ainsley Harriott in BBC Good Food Magazine, November 2001.)
We mainly eat mussels in the colder months – something to do with months with an r in the them, but also they just seem like cold weather food to us. They’re so cheap and yet such a treat. This is typical Friday night food in our house, served with crusty bread or fries. La Mouclade is a French recipe from Rick Stein’s French Odyssey and includes a creamy curry sauce – delicious!
Wine Suggestion: As this dish comes from the Charentes region of France, we sipped some chilled Pineau des Charentes as an aperitif and then a glass of Bordeaux Blanc. While we would have loved to have found some Right Bank Bordeaux Ch Monbousquet or Valandraud Blanc we had some Chateau Bouscaut Blanc from the Graves instead. A Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon blend with some barrel aging after fermentation in stainless steel. Great with seafood and able to stand up to the curry and saffron.
La Mouclade – serves 4
a good pinch of saffron threads
1.75 kg mussels, cleaned
120ml dry white wine
25g butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ tsp good-quality medium curry powder
2 tbsp cognac
2 tbsp plain flour
200ml crème fraîche
3 tbsp chopped parsley
Put the saffron into a small bowl with a tablespoon of warm water.
Put the mussels and wine into a large saucepan, cover and cook over a hight heat for 3-4 minutes, shaking occasionally, until the mussels have opened. Tip them into a colander over a bowl to catch the liquid. Transfer the mussels to a large serving bowl and keep warm.
Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the onion, garlic and curry powder and cook gently for a few minutes. Add the cognac and cook until almost evaporated, then stir in the flour and cook for a minute. Gradually stir in the saffron liquid and the mussel liquid (leave the very last gritty bit behind). Bring to a simmer and cook for a few minutes. Add the crème fraîche and simmer for another few minutes, until slightly reduced. Season to taste, stir in the parsley and pour the sauce over the mussels .
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s French Odyssey, BBC Books, 2005.)
You know those fab salads that they serve in French bistros? Well this is one of those and it’s from Rick Stein’s French Odyssey – a book we never travel to France without.
Wine Suggestion: this wine reminded us of holidays in the Dordogne in France so we chose a white Bergerac from Chateau le Tap, a nearly even blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with a touch of Muscadelle thrown in.
Smoked ham salad with shaved Gruyère, escarole and walnuts – serves 4
1 escarole lettuce or 2 English curly lettuces
100g piece of Gruyère cheese
400g of good quality smoked cooked ham – about 12 very thin slice
10 walnuts in the shell
1 small bunch of chives, chopped
FOR THE DRESSING:
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp lemon juice
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp crème fraîche or sour cream
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp walnut oil (or use more olive oil if you haven’t got this)
Remove the outer lettuce leaves and discard, then break the rest into leaves. Wash and dry well in a salad spinner.
Cut the cheese into very thin strips using a cheese slicer or mandolin.
For the dressing, whisk together the mustard, lemon juice and vinegar. Add the crème fraîche, whisk until emulsified then gradually whisk in the olive and walnut oils. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Arrange the sliced ham, lettuce leaves and shaved cheese onto 4 plates and scatter over the shelled walnuts. Drizzle over the dressing and sprinkle with the chives.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s French Odyssey, BBC Books, 2005.)
Fennel makes a great addition to a classic dauphinoise. We served with chargrilled steak and spinach but it would also be great with venison.
Fennel Dauphinoise – serves 2
225g medium potatoes, very thinly sliced (a mandolin works best for this)
1 small fennel bulb, sliced (reserve the fronds)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
75ml whole milk
100ml double cream
2 tbsp finely grated Parmesan
butter
Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.
Put the potatoes, fennel and garlic in a medium non-stick pan. Pour in the milk and cream, season well and simmer gently, covered, for 10 minutes, stirring halfway through, until the potatoes are just tender.
Divide the mixture between 2 small (about 150ml) buttered ramekins and sprinkle with the Parmesan.
Bake for 40 minutes or until the potatoes are golden and tender when pierced with a knife. Snip the fennel fronds over before serving.
A dish of Merguez sausages and couscous from Marseilles. Like a Pot au Feu with flavours of the Maghreb. So delicious!
Wine Suggestion: French meets the Mediterranean, meets the Middle East – the Massaya le Colombier is a Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah and Tempranillo blend. Made in stainless steel to preserve the fruit we love to chill this for 30 minutes, but you don’t have to.
Merguez with Couscous – serves 6 to 8
2 tbsp ras el hanout
1 tbsp paprika
700g skinless chicken thighs
2 courgettes, thickly sliced
4 ripe tomatoes, quartered
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 red pepper, halved and sliced
2 dried red chillies
1 pinch of saffron
1 large piece of orange zest (use the juice to soak the raisins)
400g merguez sausages
1 x 400g tin chickpeas
2 tbsp harissa
FOR THE COUSCOUS:
450g couscous
100g raisins, soaked in orange juice
50g butter
Put the spices in a large wide pan with 2 tbsp of olive oil and heat until sizzling. Add the chicken, vegetables, chillies, saffron and orange zest with 1 litre of cold water and slowly bring to a simmer. Season well and continue to cook uncovered for 10 minutes.
Add the merguez sausages to the chicken, then cover and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the chickpeas.
Meanwhile, put the couscous into a bowl and cover with the same volume of boiling water. Cover with cling film and leave to steam for 5 minutes, then fork through.
Tip the couscous into a serving bowl and add the raisins, butter and plenty of salt and pepper.
Add 4 tbsp of the chicken cooking liquid to the harissa to make a sauce.
Serve the chicken & sausages with the couscous and harissa sauce on the side.
(Original recipe by Lulu Grimes IN: Olive Magazine, September 2013.)
Jono & Jules do food & wine 