This is such a good side dish. We served it with roast lamb this time, but it would easily complement so many other dishes and can see us doing it alongside some grilled halloumi next time – highly recommended.
Sweet potatoes with tahini yoghurt & herb oil – serves 4 to 6
4 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1.5cm slices
4 tbsp olive oil
2 heaped tbsp ras el hanout
2 tbsp pine nuts
a good handful of pomegranate seeds
FOR THE HERB OIL:
15g flat leaf parsley
15g dill
15g coriander
juice of ½ lemon
3-4 tbsp olive oil
FOR THE TAHINI YOGHURT:
6 tbsp Greek-style yoghurt
4 tbsp tahini
Preheat the oven to 220C, Gas Mark 7 and line a large tray with baking paper.
Put the sweet potato slices onto the tray. Drizzzle over the olive oil, sprinkle with the ras el hanout and add plenty of salt, then use your hands to coat the sweet potatoes in the mixture. Spread out in a single layer and roast for 30 minutes or until cooked through.
Meanwhile, make a herb oil by putting the herbs, lemon juice, olive oil (enough to allow the mixture to spin) and seasoning in a blender and whizz until smooth.
Mix the yoghurt with the tahini and season with salt and pepper.
Transfer the cooked sweet potatoes to a platter and pour over the tahini yoghurt followed by the herb oil, then scatter over the pine nuts and pomegrante seeds.
(Original recipe from Flavour by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster*, 2023.)
Who doesnt love a chicken drumstick? These ones have a delicious Spanish inspired marinade. Serve with some alioli if you like.
Wine suggestion: when choosing wines to go with dishes we often start with the idea that the origin of the dish lends itself to similar wines, in this case Spain. So on this note we went for Edetària’s via Edetana Red which is a joyful and deep expression of Garnacha Fina and Garnatxa Peluda, two very closely related varieties of Grenache. It has both a purity and freshness alongside an earthiness and rounded, velvety spices; medium bodied so it didn’t overwhelm the chicken and worked alongside the marinade. An interesting aside, the very rare Garnatxa Peluda found only in Terra Alta is also called “Hairy Grenache” as the leaves are velvety.
BBQ Drumsticks – serves 4
8 chicken drumsticks
lemon wedges, to serve
For the marinade:
50ml olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
4 bay leaves
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp black peppercorns, lightly crushed
100ml fino sherry
salt
Mix all the marinade ingredients together and add plenty of salt.
Add the drumsticks and rub the marinade in with your hands. Cover and leave in the fridge overnight or for at least 3 hours.
Remove the chicken from the fridge an hour before you want to cook it. Brush the marinade off the chicken and reserve it for later.
Prep your barbecue to allow for indirect and direct cooking. Put the chicken pieces over the indirect heat to start and cover with a lid. Allow to cook for 30 minutes, turning regularly.
Move the chicken onto the direct heat and cook for another 15-20 minutes until cooked through and nicely charred. Baste often with the reserved marinade.
Serve with the lemon wedges and some alioli if you like.
(Original recipe from The Hairy Bikers’ Mediterranean Adventure by Si King & Dave Myers, Seven Dials, 2017.)
A tasty side dish to get us out our potato rut of baby roast or dauphinoise. These went spectacularly well with roast chicken.
Patatas a lo pobre – serves 4
600g waxy potatoes e.g. Charlottes
1 bulb of fennel, cut into quarters lengthways and shred into 5mm slices
75ml olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 tbsp capers, rinsed
a few sprigs of fresh oregano
Slice the potatoes into 5mm rounds.
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan and add the potatoes and fennel. Cook over a medium heat until the potatoes are tender and starting to brown about 10-15 minutes. Keep tossing gently so it all cooks evenly.
When the potatoes are almost ready, add the garlic and sherry vinegar. Keep cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes or until the liquid has been absorbed and the potatoes are completely soft. Stir in the capers and oregano leaves and season with salt and pepper.
(Original recipe from The Hairy Bikerrs Mediterranean Adventure, Si King & Dave Myers, Seven Dials, 2017.)
Wine Suggestion: Italian reds work with tomato pasta sauces as they tend to be a little bit more acidic which compliments the acidity of the tomatoes. Given how light the spinach and ricotta are a light chianti or a young nebbiolo will work well.
Spinach & Ricotta Cannelloni – serves 5 to 6
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE:
4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
2 bay leaves
½ tsp dried thyme
½ tsp dried oregano
6 tbsp tomato purée
170ml white wine
2 x 400g tins crushed tomatoes
1 litre vegetable stock
1½ tsp caster sugar
1 tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp black pepper
10g basil leaves, roughtly torn, plus extra to serve
250g cannelloni tubes
50g finely grated Parmesan
125g grated mozzarella
FOR THE FILLING:
250g frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
500g ricotta
30g finely grated Parmesan
100g grated mozzarella
1 egg
1 large clove of garlic
a little grated nutmeg
¾ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp black pepper
First make the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, thyme and oregano. Cook for 3-4 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Add the tomato purée and stir for a minute. Stir in the wine, then turn the heat up hight and simmer until almost evaporated. Add the tomatoes, stock, sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 35 minutes.
Remove the bay leaves and whizz the sauce until smoooth, then stir in the basil leaves.
Squeeze the defrosted spinach with your hands to get rid of as much water as possible. Put the spinach in a bowl with the rest of the filling ingredients and mix well with wooden spoon.
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan.
Spread about 375ml of the sauce across the base of a large baking dish (about 23 x 32 cm).
Put the filling into a piping bag (or you can use a sandwich bag with the corner snipped off). Pipe the filling into the tubes until full, then place them in the baking dish.
Pour over the rest of the tomato sauce, making sure to cover all the tubes. Cover with foil, then bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil, then sprinkle with the Parmesan, then the mozzarella. Bake for another 15 minutes or until the cheese has melted.
Garnish with extra basil leaves and Parmesan and serve with a green salad.
(Original recipe from Recipetin Eats by Nagi Maehashi, Pan Macmilan, 2022)
We made these noodles on the day we got our new puppy, Remy. We can barely remember what they tasted like as we were too busy congratulating ourselves on picking the best little dog ever. However we wrote, usefully, on the recipe that they tasted very good indeed … so we’ll go with that.
Wine Suggestion: The coconut and turmeric elements to this dish work really well with an off-dry Riesling, like those from the Mosel in Germany. The Dr Loosen “L” Riesling is an inexpensive, but very well made option with charming fruit and a very good balance, finishing clean and fresh.
Spicy Coconut and Chicken Noodles – serves 4
vegetable oil
2 onions, roughly chopped
600g boneless and skinless chicken thighs
4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp rose harissa
400ml tin coconut milk
300g medium egg noodles
TO SERVE:
a handful of bean sprouts
lime wedges
coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Put a large saucepan over a medium-high heat, drizzle in some vegetable oil and fry the onions until soft. Add the chicken and dry spices along with lots of salt and pepper and stir to coat the chicken in the mixture, then stir-fry for a few minutes. Add the harrisa and stir-fry for a few more minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium, then pour in the coconut milk and some water so that the chicken is just covered. Stir, then cover the pan with a lid and cook gently for an hour, stirring now and then to make sure it hasn’t stuck. You can top up the liquid a little if needed.
Cook the noodles according to the pack instructions, then drain and divide between 4 bowls.
Pour the chicken over the cooked noodles, then add the bean sprouts, lime wedges and coriander.
(Original recipe from Flavour by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster*, 2023.)
Jeez this sauce is good. A stunning recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage. There are a good few steps in the recipe, but prep everything first and you will be fine.
Wine Suggestion: Don’t push the boat out for a wine match as the gutsy flavours just need an easy, well made, rounded Chardonnay. Go anymore complex and the subtlety will be lost. For us tonight Domaine Gayda’s Sphere Chardonnay which see’s wonderful sunshine in the Languedoc, but maintains it’s freshness as the vineyards are on the foothills of the Pyrenees and juducious and light use of oak barrels to bring it together.
Duck with pepper sauce and green salsa – serves 2
2 skin-on duck breasts
1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
FOR THE MARINADE:
2 tbsp soy sauce
1¼ tbsp Worcestershire sauce
½ tbsp maple syrup
⅛ tsp fine salt
FOR THE SALSA:
2 scallions, very finely chopped
5g chives, very finely chopped
5g fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
½ jalapeño, very finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp lime juice
⅛ tsp fine salt
FOR THE SAUCE:
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1½ tbsp olive oil
1 banana shallot, very finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, very finely chopped
⅛ tsp fine salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp green peppercorns, roughly crushed (the pickled green peppercorns are best for this)
½ tsp chipotle chilli flakes
1¼ tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp water
130g cream
Get a dish that will fit both duck breasts in a single layer. Mix the marinade ingredients together, then arrange the duck in the marinade, skin side up – try your best not to get any marinade on the skin. Marinate for a minimum of 2 hours at room temperature, or ideally, overnight in the fridge. Don’t cover the container either way, as you want the skin to dry out. Bring to room temperature for 2 hours before cooking.
Prep the salsa by mixing all the ingredients together, then set aside.
Take the duck out of the marinade and transfer to a tray lined with a clean cloth, flesh side down, so the flesh dries out. Blot the skin with kitchen paper to make sure it’s as dry as possible. Rub some salt and pepper into the skin. Reserve the marinade.
Put the duck breasts into a cold, non-stick frying pan, skin-side down and spaced apart. Put the pan over a low heat and gently fry, pressing down on the duck, for about 10 minutes or until the skin is crisp and deep brown (keep going longer to achieve this if you need). Spoon away the duck fat that renders in the pan (keep for roasties another day). Transfer the duck breasts to a plate, skin side up, then increase the pan heat to high.
When the pan is very hot, return the breasts to the pan, flesh side down. Move breasts around for about 3 minutes to get them coloured evenly. Transfer the duck to a plate and rest, uncovered, for a full 12 minutes.
Either wash out the pan and allow it to cool or start with another non-stick frying pan. Add the butter, oil, shallots, garlic and salt to the cold frying-pan. Put over a medium-low heat and fry gently for 6-7 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the black pepper, pepercorns, chipotle chilli flakes, and cumin and cook for another minute.
Pour the reserved marinade and the 2 tbsp water into the pan, turn the heat to hight and allow to bubble for 1½ minutes. Turn the heat down low and stir in the cream and cook for 1 minute to warm through.
Pour the sauce onto a plattter, then slice the duck and arrange it on top. Finish with the green salsa and serve with the lime wedges.
(Original recipe from Mexcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)
This has a surprising umaminess given the short cooking time. A dish for mushroom lovers.
Wine Suggestion: We enjoy pairing mushroom dishes with Nebbiolo and really enjoy stepping outside the box to find versions made outside it’s native Piedmont. Tonight a glass of Clendenen Family Vineyards (Au Bon Climat) “Pip” from the Santa Maria Valley in California, which despite it getting some of the famous sunshine, is also a very cool area with fog … just like Piedmont. We liked it a lot.
Porcini sauce for tagliatelle – serves 2
40g dried porcini
4 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped
½ tsp chilli flakes
10g fresh parsley (stalks and leaves), finely chopped, plus extra to serve
a big pinch of fine sea salt
1½ tbsp tomato purée
about 50 twists of freshly ground black pepper
250g dried tagliatelle
40g Parmesan, very finely grated, plus extra to serve
3 tbsp double cream
Put the dried porcini into a bowl and cover with boiling water, then leave to soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 75g of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the porcini so it is like the consistency of mince, then set aside.
Put the oil, garlic, chilli flakes, parsley and fine salt into a large sauté pan, then place over a medium-low heat. Fry very gently for 5 minutes or until soft, taking care that the garlic doesn’t turn brown.
Increase the heat, then add the chopped porcini, tomato purée and the pepper. Stir-fry for a few minutes, then set the pan aside while you cook the tagliatelle.
Cook the pasta in boiling salty water until al dente, then drain and reserve 350g of the pasta water.
Return the sauté pan to a medium-high heat, then add the reserved porcini and pasta water. Bring to a simmer and leave to bubble for a few minutes. Add half the Parmesan, stir until melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat, then stir in the cream, followed by the cooked pasta. Toss over the heat for a minute or two until the sauce comes together.
Remove from the heat and serve with more Parmesan and olive oil.
(Original recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)
Rajma or spiced kidney beans from Dishoom. Delicious with rice and raita.
Wine Suggestion: We found the rich, mealy textured beans paired well with Luigi Pira’s Langhe Nebbiolo. The fruity, spice and lighter nature wasn’t too serious for this dish, and the oomph from the tannins was a good counterpoint to the richness and depth in the beans.
Rajma – serves 2 to 4
35ml vegetable oil
5g ginger paste (see recipe below)
5g garlic paste (see recipe below)
1 black cardamom pod
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
15g tomato purée
1g fine salt
100g onion-tomato masala (see recipe below)
400g tin kidney beans
½ tsp garam masala
50g tomatoes, chopped
a good handful of coriander leaves, chopped
25g butter
TO SERVE:
red onion, finely sliced
ginger matchsticks
coriander leaves, roughly torn
lime wedges
Warm the oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and cook for a few minutes, stirring, until no longer raw.
Add the cardmamom pod, bay leaf and cinnamon stick and cook for 1 minute. Add the ground cumin, chilli powder, tomato purée and salt and cook for a few minutes, or until the oil starts to separate.
Add the onion-tomato masala and bring to a simmer, stirring, then add the kidney beans along with their liquid. Simmer for 15 minutes or until reduced and thickened.
Add the garam masala, tomatoes, chopped coriander and ginger and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the butter.
Serve garnished with the red onion, ginger and coriander and with lime wedges for squeezing over.
Onion-tomato masala – makes about 450g
300ml vegetable oil
1.2kg Spanish white onions, finely diced
35g garlic paste (see recipe below)
30g ginger paste (see recipe below)
1¾ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
30g tomato purée
2 tsp fine sea salt
600g good quality tinned tomatoes
Warm a deep, heaving frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and warm before adding the onions. Let the onions caramelise to a deep brown, stirring regularly. Add a splash of water if they are at risk of burning. This should take 25-30 minutes.
Add the garlic and ginger paste and sauté until light golden brown, stirring all the time.
Add the chilli powder, tomato purée and salt, then sauté for 2 minutes.
Add the chopped tomatoes, stir well and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring often. The tomatoes should break down completely and caramelise a bit in the oil, you can add a splash of water if it starts to dry up.
Freeze any masala that you are not using.
Ginger and Garlic Pastes – makes about 170g (keep in the fridge covered with oil for 10 days)
3 bulbs of garlic or 180g fresh root ginger
25ml vegetable oil, plus extra to store
Peel the garlic or ginger and roughly chop.
Whizz the garlic or ginger with with the oil to make a smooth paste.
Store in a sterilized jar covered with oil in the fridge.
(Original recipes from Dishoom by Shamil Thakrar, Kavi Thakrar & Naved Nasir, Bloomsbury, 2019.)
We love dhal and this cheat’s version is delicious! It’s similar to a dhal makhani but a fraction of the effort to make. We will never be without 2 tins of lentils again! Serve with rice or naan of course.
Wine Suggestion: a regular grenache, Domaine Ventenac’s “les Dissidents” Paria because it has an effortless freshness and gentle plummy, warm spices of a juicy core of red fruit.
Cheat’s Dhal – serves 4 to 6
2-3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp tomato purée
2 x 400g tins green lentils, drained
50g butter
150ml double cream
300ml boiling water
Heat a large heavy saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the vegetable oil and the onion and stir-fry until softened and starting to brown at the edges.
Stir in the spices until the onions are coated, then add the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the lentils, then the butter and stir until melted. Pour in the cream and season generously, then pour in the water and stir again.
Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and creamy. Season to taste and serve.
(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster, 2022.)
Jono & Jules do food & wine 