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Fishcakes with Parsley Sauce

Posted in Fish, Food, tagged , , , , , , , , on 2 May 2023| Leave a Comment »

This is a long recipe but it’s not difficult and quite nice and methodical. You can make the fishcakes earlier in the day and cook when you’re ready if you like. You will get big fishcakes full of chunky pieces of fish. Serve with green salad.

Wine Suggestion: a top-notch Muscadet, like Jérémie Huchet’s, very special Clos des Montys. Finely toned and vibrant with citrus and grapefruit on the palate; both dry and salty, and creamy at the same time. It’s a little edgy, but we like that. Wines like this bring out the flavours of the sea and celebrate the three fish in this dish.

Fishcakes with parsley sauce – serves 6

  • 600g Maris Piper potatoes, cut into chunks
  • 250g thick unskinned cod fillet
  • 250g thick unkinned salmon fillet
  • 100g unskinned smoked haddock fillet
  • 500ml full-fat milk
  • 1 bay leaf
  • grated zest of ½ lemon
  • 6 scallions, finely sliced
  • 25g plain flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 100g fresh white breadcrumbs
  • 75ml vegetable oil
  • lemon wedges, to serve

FOR THE PARSLEY SAUCE:

  • 25g butter
  • 25g plain flour
  • reserved milk from cooking the fish
  • 25g curly parsley, finely chopped

Put the potatoes into cold salted water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 12 to 15 minutes or until tender, then drain and mash. Season with salt and white pepper, then spread the potatoes out over a plate to cool.

Put the fish pieces into a large saucepan with the milk and bay leaf. Season with a little salt and peppper. Cover with a lid and gently bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes to finish cooking.

Remove the fish from the milk and set onto a plate. Pour the milk into a jug as you will need this for the parsley sauce later. Remove the skin from the fish and break it into chunky pieces, discarding any bones, then leave to cool completely.

When the potato has cooled, transfer it to a large bowl and stir in the lemon zest and scallions. Gently stir in the fish with a wooden spoon, trying not to break it up too much.

Divid the mixture into 6 balls. Flatten the balls into cakes, about 3cm thick, and place on a lined baking tray. Put the tray into the fridge for 45 minutes or into the freezer for 20 to firm up.

Sprinkle the flour over a plate. Beat the eggs together in a shallow bowl. Spread half the breadcrumbs over another plate. Now take each fishcake and coat in the flour, shaking off any excess, then into the egg, allowing excess to drip off and finally into the breadcrumnbs to coat. Place on a lined baking tray. When you have coated 3 fishcakes put the rest of the breadcrumbs onto the plate for the rest. The fishcakes will keep in the fridge for 24 hours at this stage.

Heat the oven to 200/C/180C fan.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan, then place 3 fishcakes into the pan and fry for about 3 minutes on each side. Put onto a baking tray while you fry the rest.

Put the fishcakes into the hot oven for 10 minutes to finish cooking. Test with a skewer to make sure they are hot right through to the middle.

To make the parsley sauce, melt the butter in a small pan, then stir in the flour. Cook for a minute, then gradually add the reserved milk, stirring continually until you have a smooth sauce. Allow to simmer, then cook gently for a few minutes until thickened, then season. Remove from the heat and stir in the chopped parsley.

Serve the fishcakes with the sauce and some lemon wedges. A green salad works well on the side.

(Original recipe from The Hairy Bikers’ British Classice by Si King and Dave Myers, Seven Dials, 2018.)

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Halloumi, Bacon, Date & Apple Salad

Posted in Food, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on 1 May 2023| 1 Comment »

A great starter dish from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour. The sun came out so we could sit outside for a relaxed Saturday lunch, and this takes very little time to put together which was perfect.

Wine Suggestion: The much under-rated varietal, Chenin Blanc is our pick. A dry version like Adi Badenhorst’s Secateurs and it’s stonefruit and apple flavours over a flinty core stands up to the baked halloumi and bacon with aplomb.

Halloumi, bacon, date & apple salad – serves 4 as a starter

  • 250g block of halloumi
  • 8 smoked streaky bacon rashers
  • 4 large Medjool dates, pitted and halved

FOR THE SALAD:

  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp clear honey
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp water
  • a small bag of mixed salad leaves
  • 1 apple, cored and sliced

Preheat the oven to 240C.

Line a large baking tray with baking paper.

Cut the block of halloumi in half lengthways, then cut each half into 4 rectangular fingers.

Lay a piece of bacon on a board, put a piece of halloumi at the end and top with half a date, then roll up tightly to form a neat bundle. Repeat to make 8 rolls.

Roast the halloumi in the oven for 10-12 minutes or until the bacon is very crispy.

Meanwhile, put the olive oil, red wine vinegar, honey, cinnimon and water into a small bowl and whisk to combine. Spread the salad leaves over a platter, drizzle with the dressing and scatter over the apple slices.

Put the hot halloumi and bacon rolls on top of the salad leaves and serve.

(Original recipe from Persian Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster, 2022.)

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Pierogi

Posted in Food, Vegetarian, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on 30 April 2023| Leave a Comment »

Our first time making these delicious Polish dumplings, and we’ll be making them again as the recipe is easy (if lengthy), makes loads, and they cook from frozen if you don’t eat them straight away. It helps if you can get a bit of a production line going… so involve others if they’re around.

Wine Suggestion: Dry Chenin Blanc, like Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray “le Marigny”. A dry cuvée that sees a bit of oak and aging on the fine lees giving it extra texture and allowing the minerality to emerge from the precise fuit. The texture in this contrasts with the silkiness of the Pierogi and plays with the sour cream and lemon zest in a good way.

Pierogi – serves 8 to 10

FOR THE DOUGH:

  • 2 large eggs
  • 400g soured cream
  • 350g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
  • ½ tsp baking powder

FOR THE FILLING:

  • 250g white cabbage, about a quarter of a whole one, coarsely grated
  • 2 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 500g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 2 tsp caraway seeds
  • 2 onions,
  • unsalted butter
  • 120g mature Cheddar cheese
  • white pepper

TO SERVE:

  • 30g chives
  • 1 lemon, zested and juiced

Make the dough first by beating the eggs with 150g of the soured cream. Sift in the flour, baking powder and ½ tsp of sea salt, then mix until the dough comes together. Knead on a floured surface until smooth, then wrap in clingfilm and put into the fridge.

Put the cabbage into a bowl and add the vinegar and a pinch of salt. Rub and mix with your hands, then set aside to lightly pickle.

Put the potatoes into a pan of boiling salted water and cook for 10-12 minutes or until they are tender. Drain then return to the pot to steam dry.

Toast the caraway seeds in a large dry frying pan for a few minutes, then add the onions with a good glug of olive oil. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes or until soft and golden. Add the pickled cabbage with a knob of butter and cook for another 5 minutes. Mash the potatoes, then add to the cabbage and onions. Add the cheese and some white pepper. Mix well, then taste and add plenty of seasoning. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, finely chop the chives and mix in a bowl with the rest of the soured cream, lemon zest and juice. Season, then tip onto a large serving platter and chill in the fridge.

Tip the dough out onto a floured surface and cut in half. Take the first half and roll out to 2mm thick, dusting with flour as you go. Cut as many circles as you can with a 9cm cutter and repeat with the second piece of dough.

Divide the filling into heaped teaspoons on a tray and roll into small marble-sized balls. Place a pastry circle into the palm of your hand, put a ball in the middle, then gently fold in half, piching all the way around, then place on a floured surface.

When you have made all the pierogi, take a floured fork and use it to crimp closed the edges.

Cook a few of the pierogi at a time in a large pot of boiling salted water for about 4 minutes. Carefully scoop them out and itno a large non-stick pan with a knob of foaming butter and fry until golden on one side only. Serve the hot pierogi on top of the chilled sauce.

(Original recipe from Jamie’s Comfort Food by Jamie Oliver, Michael Joseph, 2014.)

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Lazy Mantí

Posted in Food, Pasta, Vegetarian, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on 29 April 2023| Leave a Comment »

This is a cheat recipe using a packet of shop-bought stuffed pasta. It makes a delicious lunch!

Lazy mantí – serves 2

  • 300g pack of shop-bought stuffed pasta
  • 50g butter
  • 1 tsp pul biber chilli flakes
  • 150g natural yoghurt
  • 1 scant tsp dried mint

Cook the pasta in lots of salty boiling water according to the timings on the pack, then drain into a sieve.

Return the pasta pan to the heat and add the butter. When the butter has melted, stir in the pul biber, then remove from the heat.

Season the yoghurt with salt and pepper and loosen with a little water – you’re looking for double cream consistency.

Divide the pasta between warm bowls and pour over the yoghurt, then drizzle over the pul biber butter, sprinkle with dried mint and season generously with black pepper.

(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster, 2022.)

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Cannelloni alla sorrentina

Posted in Food, Italian, Pasta, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on 27 April 2023| Leave a Comment »

You need to take your time over this one but it’s an excellent thing to do on a rainy day.

Wine Suggestion: A bright, youthful, vibrant red Italian red came to mind immediately for this. We didn’t have anything to hand from the Sorrento/Naples area so crossed over to the Marches for Umani Ronchi’s Rosso Conero Serrano. A delightful blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese it stepped in admirably with an elegant red-fruited core and fine tannins.

Cannelloni all sorrentina – serves 4

First you need to make a batch of fresh egg pasta. If you have never done this before a youtube video will be helpful.

  • 400g 00 flour
  • 4 eggs

Make a mountain of flour on a large wooden board. Make a crater in the centre and break in the eggs.

Use a fork to break the egg yolks and gently whisk before starting to incorporate the flour by knocking it into the eggs. When you have added enough flour that the eggs will no longer run away, you can start using your hands and continue to mix, bring the flour and eggs together into a soft scraggy ball.

Knead the pasta until the dough starts to soften and smooth out – at least 5 minutes. If after the first few minutes the ball is still dry and flaky, flick just a few drops of water onto the board and knead them into the dough. You may need to do this a couple times, but don’t add too much, keep it to a couple of drops each time.

Once the dough is smooth, firm but pliable, leave it to rest, covered with a cloth or cling film for a at least 30 minutes.

Clamp a pasta machine onto a suitable table and put to the widest setting. Divide the pasta dough into 4, take a quarter and put the other 3 back under the cloth. Flatten the dough into a patty and put it through the rollers. Fold the strip of dough like an envelope and pass it through again, evelope again and pass again. It will be the size of a small book.

Set the machine at two and pass the dough through, but don’t fold this time. Do the same with the third setting, and so on until you have rolled it through all the settings and have a long strip, you can cut this to make it more manageable. Dust with some flour if it feels sticky.

Repeat this method with the other lumps of pasta. Cut the pasta into 12 sheets, each 20 x 10cm.

FOR THE SAUCE:

  • 6 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • a pinch of chilli flakes
  • 2 x 400g tins plum tomatoes
  • a few fresh basil leaves

FOR THE FILLING:

  • 300g ricotta, drained
  • 2 eggs
  • 200g mozzarella, drained overnight and diced
  • 3 heaped tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 60g Parmesan, grated, plus extra for the top
  • a few fresh basil leaves
  • grated nutmeg

First make the sauce. Warm the olive oil, garlic and chilli in a large, deep frying pan. When the garlic is fragrant, add the tomatoes, basil and a pinch of salt. Break the tomatoes up with a wooden spoon and allow to simmer for 15 minutes.

To make the filling, mash the ricotta in a large bowl, then beat in the eggs. Add the mozzarella, parsley and Parmesan and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

Bring a large pan of salty water to the boil and prepare a large bowl of cold water. Drop a few pasta sheets into the boiling water, leave for 1 minutes, then lift out and into the cold water for 20 seconds, then lay on clean tea towels.

To roll the cannelloni, put 2 spoons of the filling at the top of the longer edge of each pasta sheet and roll closed.

Spread a little tomato sauce into the bottom of a large baking dish, arrange the cannelloni on top, then sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few basil leaves, then pour over the rest of the sauce.

It helps to rest the dish now for at least 2 hours or even overnight.

Preheat the oven to 200C and bake for 30 minutes.

Leave the dish to rest for 30 minutes before serving with a green salad.

(Original recipe from An A-Z of Pasta by Rachel Roddy, Penguin:Fig Tree, 2021.)

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Chicken & Spinach Lasagne

Posted in Chicken, Food, Pasta, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on 25 April 2023| 1 Comment »

Make this with your roast chicken leftovers. It will generously serve 6 people and is very rich so you will only need a green salad on the side. Make sure you season all the components separately.

Wine Suggestion: We are big fans of Chardonnay, especially judiciously oaked and handled, no matter where they are grown. Tonight a hidden gem from Burgundy, the Patrick Javillier Bourgogne Côte d’Or Cuvée des Forgets which is grown on clay very close to Meursault. Quite vigorous and toasty with yellow and red apples poking through, plus layers of nuts. Generous and fleshy with a fresh, vibrant core that helps balance the richness of the dish.

Chicken and spinach lasagne – serves 6 to 8

  • 40g butter
  • 2 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
  • 100g button mushrooms, finely sliced
  • 3 tbsp plain flour
  • 600ml milk
  • 100g cream cheese
  • 50g grated Parmesan
  • 150g baby spinach
  • 1 large egg
  • 250g ricotta cheese
  • 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • no-cook lasagne sheets, about 8
  • 400g cooked chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces
  • 200g grated mozzarella cheese

Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add the garlic and mushrooms. Season and cook gently for a few minutes or until the mushrooms have softened.

Stir in the flour and cook for another minute, then gradually add the milk. Season generously, bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and cook for a few minutes, until thickened. Stir in the cream cheese and half of the Parmesan, then remove from the heat and stir in the spinach until wilted.

Whisk the egg, ricotta and parsley together in a bowl and season generously.

Spoon a quarter of the sauce into a large, deep, rectangular dish. Cover with lasagne sheets. Add a third of the ricotta mix, then add a third of the chicken, a third of the mozzarella and a small sprinkling of Parmesan. Repeat these layers twice more, then finish with a layer of lasagne sheets and the last of the sauce and remaining Parmesan.

Bake for 25 minutes, until bubbling and browned. Leave to settle before cutting into squares and serving with salad.

(Original recipe from More Midweek Meals by Neven Maguire, Gill Books, 2022.)

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Lemon Sole Florentine

Posted in Fish, Food, tagged , , , , , , , , on 24 April 2023| 4 Comments »

It’s a classic combination for good reason. Very easy to make and absolutely delicious.

Wine Suggestion: playing on the balance of rich parmesan and bechamel, earthy spinach and gentle sole we opened a bottle of Sartarelli’s Mellitta. A Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva this shows the depth only top quality old-vines can give with flinty almond and peach flavours overlaid with a creamy toastiness. Made gently and with thought this wine isn’t brash, but rather has great depth and subtle nuances. A new find and one we’ll revisit.

Lemon sole florentine – serves 4

  • 4 large lemon sole, each cut into 4 fillets and skinned (your fish shop will do this for you)
  • juice of ½ lemon
  • 45g butter
  • 45g plain flour
  • 450ml full-fat milk
  • 750g spinach leaves
  • 30g Parmesan cheese, grated

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/Gas 6.

Sprinkle the fish fillets with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Fold them in half widthways, and set aside.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook, stirring for a minute. Remove from the heat and gradually blend in the milk. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly until thickened. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, then season.

Wash the spinach and put into a pan with just the water left on the leaves. Cook for a couple of minutes until wilted, then drain well and squeeze out excess water.

Stir half the sauce into the cooked spinach and spoon into a shallow ovenproof dish. Arrange the sole on top, then pour over the rest of the sauce and sprinkle with cheese. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, then serve.

(Original recipe from Mary Berry’s Complete Cookbook, DK, 1995. )

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Butter Chicken

Posted in Chicken, Food, Gluten-free, Indian, tagged , , , , , , , , , on 23 April 2023| Leave a Comment »

This is Dishoom’s Chicken Ruby and it’s by far the best recipe for butter chicken that we’ve made. There’s definitely quite a bit to do but you can marinate the chicken and make the sauce in advance, so the last bit is very easy. Serve with rice.

Butter chicken – serves 4

  • 700g skinless, boneless chicken thighs
  • 20g unsalted butter, melted
  • 50ml double cream

FOR THE MARINADE:

  • 10g fresh ginger, chopped
  • 20g garlic, chopped
  • 5g fine sea salt
  • 1 tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
  • 1½ tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp garam masala
  • 2 tsp lime juice
  • 2 tsp veg oil
  • 75g full-fat Greek yoghurt

FOR THE MAKHANI SAUCE:

  • 35g garlic
  • 175ml vegetable oil
  • 20g fresh ginger
  • 2 x tins chopped tomatoes
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 6 green cardamom pods
  • 2 black cardamom pods
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 2 tsp fine sea salt
  • 1½ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
  • 30g butter
  • 1 tsp garam masala
  • 20g granulated sugar
  • 1 tbsp runny honey
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp dried fenugreek leaves, crumbled
  • ½ tsp dill fronds
  • 80ml double cream

TO GARNISH:

  • coriander leaves, chopped
  • 1 tbsp pomegranate seeds

You need to marinate the chicken for 6-24 hours. To make the marinade, whizz the ingredients together in a blender to a smooth paste, then transfer to a bowl.

Cut the chicken into 4cm pieces, add to the marinade and stir to coat. Cover and marinate in the fridge.

Next make the makhani sauce.

Finely chop 15g of the garlic. Warm a large saucepan over a medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the chopped garlic and fry until light golden brown and slightly crispy, about 7-8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

Finely grate the rest of the garlic and the ginger.

Blitz the tomatoes in a blender until smooth.

Put the saucepan with the garlicky oil back over a medium-high heat and add the bay leaves, all of the cardamom pods and the cinnamon sticks. Let them crackle for a minute, stirring.

Turn down the heat and add the garlic and ginger paste. Cook for 5 minutes, allowing it to brown, but not burn.

Add the tomatoes, salt and chilli powder and bring to a fast simmer, then cook until reduced by half, stirring regularly – about 30 minutes.

Add the butter and simmer for another 5 minutes.

Add the garam masala, sugar, honey, cumin, crispy garlic, dried fenugreek and fresh dill and cook for another 15 minutes.

If you are using the sauce straight away, add the cream and simmer gently for 5 minutes. If not, allow to cool and chill in the fridge until needed. Add the cream when you reheat the sauce.

To assemble / finish:

When you’re ready for the curry, heat the grill to medium-high. Place the marinated chicken on a rack in the grill pan, then brush with the melted butter and grill for 8-10 minutes or until cooked and nicely charred.

Warm a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the makhani sauce, cream and grilled chicken and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Serve the curry garnished with the chopped coriander and pomegranate seeds with steamed rice on the side.

(Original recipe from Dishoom by Shamil Thakrar, Kavi Thakrar & Naved Nasir, Bloomsbury, 2019.)

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Turkish Macaroni

Posted in Food, Pasta, tagged , , , , , , , , , on 22 April 2023| 2 Comments »

We heard about this dish on The Food Programme on BBC Radio 4 as described, lovingly, by Leyla Kazim on a program about Cyprus and halloumi/hellim. We couldn’t wait to try it. Constructed from the description by Leyla and trawling the internet for quantities. Delicious comfort food and a new way with halloumi (for us at least).

Turkish macaroni – serves 4

  • 200g halloumi
  • 2 tbsp dried mint
  • 400g wholewheat pasta, we used penne
  • 2 litres good chicken stock
  • 1-2 lemons
  • a large handful of fresh mint leaves, chopped

Finely grate the halloumi cheese and mix with the dried mint.

Cook the pasta in the chicken stock until al dente.

Put some of the cheese and mint mixture in the bottom of four bowls. Ladle some pasta and stock over each portion, then sprinkle with another layer of cheese and mint. Add another layer of pasta and finish with a final layer of cheese. Sprinkle over the fresh mint and squeeze some lemon juice over each to taste.

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Black Pepper, Paneer & Cashew Curry

Posted in Food, Gluten-free, Vegetarian, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on 19 April 2023| 2 Comments »

A easy peasy curry for weeknights. Serve with steamed basmati.

Black pepper paneer and cashew curry – serves 4

  • 2 tbsp sunflower oil
  • 2 x 225g packs of paneer, cut into 3cm cubes
  • 2 tbsp finely grated ginger
  • 2 tbsp finely grated garlic
  • 1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 tbsp madras curry paste (we use Patak’s)
  • 1 x 400ml tin coconut milk
  • 1 x 400g tin cherry tomatoes
  • 4 tbsp cashew butter (if you don’t have this you can whizz cashews a food processor to make it)
  • 1 lime, juiced
  • coriander leaves, to serve

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat and cook the paneer for 5-6 minutes, until golden on all sides.

Turn the heat down ot medium-low and add the garlic, ginger and black pepper, then cook for 1 minutes before adding the curry paste and cooking for another minute.

Add the coconut milk, tomatoes and cashew butter, then season and simmer for 20 minutes until thickened. Season again add the lime juice.

Scatter coriander leaves over and serve with steamed rice.

(Original recipe by Adam Bush in Olive Magazine, March 2022.)

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Stuffed Pasta Shells with Spinach, Chilli & Lemon

Posted in Food, Italian, Vegetarian, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on 15 April 2023| Leave a Comment »

Stuffed pasta shells with spinach, ricotta chilli and lemon. Tomato sauce underneath and lots of Parmesan on top.

Wine Suggestion: An old favourite from the Adriatic coast of Italy, Sartarelli’s Tralivio Verdicchio Superiore, which comes from their low-yielding, oldest vineyard. A bit of body and texture plus a twist of almonds and citrus; playing along very nicely with the lemon, ricotta and earthy spinach, and enough acidity to complement the tomato.

Stuffed pasta shells with chilli, spinch and lemon – serves 2

  • 175g giant pasta shells
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • a pinch of dried chilli flakes
  • 200g spinach, chopped
  • 125g ricotta
  • ½ lemon, zested
  • 400g jar of tomato pasta sauce or you can use some home-made sauce if you have it
  • Parmesan

Heat the oven to190C/fan 170C/gas 5.

Cook the shells in lots of salty water until al dente, then drain.

Heat the oil in a pan and gently cook the garlic and chilli for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the spinach and cook until wilted, then stir in the ricotta and lemon zest. Season well.

Spoon the tomato sauce into the base of a large baking dish. Use a teaspoon to stuff the pasta shells with the spinach mixture, then place in the dish in a single layer. If you have any leftover mixutre you can spoon it over the top.

Sprinkle with the Parmesan and bake for 20-25 minutes or until bubbling and golden.

(Original recipe by Janine Ratcliffe in Olive Magazine, March 2019.)

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Lemon Sole with Basil & Tomato Sauce

Posted in Fish, Food, tagged , , , , , , , , , on 12 April 2023| Leave a Comment »

This fish dish feels a bit special but is very easy to make. Serve on buttered spinach and with steamed potatoes.

Wine Suggestion: from our recent trip to the Loire we opened the superlative Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Clos de la Bretonnière. Made by Jacky and J-P Blot from a monopole in Vouvray, it has to be “Vin de France” as their winery is not in the appellation. No matter, this is as fine as dry Vouvray gets. We really enjoyed the taut minerality that complimented the fish, and how it kept on giving more layers as it went along revealing hints of spring and summer fruits. Tension and poise, but with a real generosity too.

Lemon sole with basil & tomato sauce – serves 4

  • 60g plain flour
  • 2 small lemon sole, each cut into 4 fillets and skinned (your fish shop will do this for you)
  • 30g butter

FOR THE SAUCE:

  • 300ml double cream
  • juice of ½ lemon
  • 3 tbsp fresh pesto
  • 100g sun-blush tomatoes, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp chopped basil, to serve

Sprinkle the flour over a large plate and season well with salt and pepper.

Dip the fish fillets into the seasoned flour and shake off any excess.

Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Wait until the butter foams, then add the fillets and cook for 2 minute on each side, or until opaque and easy to flake. Transfer to a warm plate and keep warm while you make the sauce.

Heat the cream, lemon juice, and pesto in a pan over a medium heat until hot, then add the sun-blush tomatoes and season with salt and black pepper. Serve the fish fillets on a bed of buttered spinach, dress with the sauce and sprinkle over some basil leaves.

(Original recipe from Mary Berry’s Cookery Course, DK, 2013.)

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Black Beans and Rice with Jammy Peppers

Posted in Food, Vegan, Vegetarian, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on 11 April 2023| 6 Comments »

This is a big dish and enough to serve on it’s own. It also goes well with this spicy chicken dish as helpfully suggested by Noor and Yotam, the authors of the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen Extra Good Things, where the recipe comes from.

Black beans and rice with jammy peppers – serves 6

  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 6 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • 2 tsp cumin seeds, finely crushed with a pestle and mortar
  • 2 tsp coriander seeds, finely crushed with a pestle and mortar
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 300g short-grain brown rice, washed and soaked for 30 minutes, then drained
  • 2 x 400g tins of black beans, drained and rinsed
  • 20g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
  • 2 tbsp lime juice
  • 1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
  • 2 medium avocados, cut into cubes

FOR THE PEPPERS:

  • 75ml olive oil
  • 2 onions, thinly sliced
  • 2 red peppers, trimmed and cut into 1cm thick strips
  • 4 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • 1½ tbsp tomato purée
  • 2 tsp light soft brown sugar
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 tsp chipotle chilli flakes
  • 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

Make the peppers first by putting the oil into a medium sauté pan over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook for 4 minutes, to soften. Add the peppers and ½ tsp of salt and cook for another 6 minutes, until softened and starting to colour. Turn the heat down to medium-low and stir in the garlic, tomato purée, sugar, oregano, chipotle, vinegar, 2 tbsp of water and plenty of black pepper. Cover with a lid and cook for half an hour, stirring now and then, until soft. Set aside.

Meanwhile, make the rice. Put 4 tbsp of the oil in a large saucepan and place over a medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, until softened and starting to colour. Add the garlic, spices and oregano and cook for a minute, until fragrant. Stir through the rice to coat, then add the black beans, 520ml of water, 1¼ tsp of salt and lots of black pepper. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and leave to cook, covered for 50 minutes. Remove the lid and set aside for 10 minutes to cool slightly.

Meanwhile, blitz the coriander, lime juice and 2 tbsp of oil in a mini food processor until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the avocado and ¼ tsp of salt.

Transfer the rice and beans to a large platter and spoon over the peppers and avocado. Serve with the lime wedges.

(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Test Kitchen Extra Good Things by Noor Murad & Yotam Ottolenghi, Ebury Press, 2022.)

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Spicy Chicken Bake with a Blue Cheese Dressing

Posted in Cheese, Chicken, Food, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on 10 April 2023| 1 Comment »

There’s a few different ingredients in this Ottolenghi dish but they are worth seeking out. We’ve served this to friends a few times and it’s very popular. Serve with steamed rice and corn tortillas.

Wine Suggestion: A juicy red with gentle, warm, velvety spices is what we’d recommend, like a Grenache blend from the Southern Rhône. Romain Roche’s Cairanne is a current favourite; so smooth and effortless, but with great depth and expression. All velvety southern French sunshine and joie de vie.

Spicy chicken bake with blue cheese dressing – serves 4

  • 15 dried cascabel chillies, stems and seeds removed
  • 15g dried chipotle chillies, stems and seeds removed
  • 3 limes, 2 tbsp juice and 1 cut into wedges to serve
  • 150g celery, peeled and very thinly cliced
  • 1 red chilli, roughly chopped with seeds left in
  • 6 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 1 x 400g tin plum tomatoes
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 onions, halved and thinly sliced
  • 450g cooked rotisserie chicken, discard the skin and roughly tear into large pieces
  • 20g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
  • 5 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
  • 150g buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn

FOR THE BLUE CHEESE DRESSING:

  • 150g soured cream
  • 100g cream cheese
  • 100g Roquefort cheese or Gorgonzola, finely crumbled
  • 1 tbsp whole milk

Put the chillies into a small bowl and pour boiling water over to cover. Weigh down with a saucer and set aside for 10 minutes.

Put the lime juice, celery and a pinch of salt into a small bowl, mix well and set aside to pickle.

Drain the chillies and roughly chop. Put into a food processor with the fresh chilli, garlic and tomatoes, then blitz until smooth.

Heat the oven to 240C, or as high as your oven goes.

Put the oil into a large, shallow cast-iron pan and place over a medim-high heat. Add the onions and cook for 12 minutes, stirring now and then, until softened and deeply browned. Add the whizzed chilli mixture, 100ml of water and 1½ tsp of salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Add the cooked chicken and another 100ml of water and simmer for another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the coriander and two-thirds of the scallions.

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients for the blue cheese dressing along with a pinch of salt and mix to combine. Reserve half the mixture and dollop the rest over the chicken mixture. Top with the torn mozzarella and bake for 15 minutes or until browned and bubbling. Leave to rest for 5 minutes.

Stir the rest of the scallions into the pickled celery and spoon half over the chicken bake. Serve the rest of the celery, the blue cheese dressing and lime wedges on the side.

(Original recipe from Ottolentghi Test Kitchen Extra Good Things by Noor Murad & Yotam Ottolenghi, Ebury Press, 2022.)

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Spaghetti with Creamy Lemon Sauce

Posted in Food, Italian, Pasta, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on 7 April 2023| 1 Comment »

We love a lemon spaghetti and it’s our go to dish when there’s nothing for lunch. This one has cream because we had some lurking in the fridge from another dish.

Spaghetti with creamy lemon sauce – serves 4

  • 2 lemons
  • 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 220ml single cream
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 350g spaghetti
  • a small bunch of thyme

Bring a large pot of water to the boil.

Meanwhile, finely zest the lemons and put into a deep frying pan, then add the olive oil and gently fry over a medium heat for a few minutes.

Pour the cream and egg yolk into the pan and mix well, then reduce the heat and cook gently for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add plenty of salt to the pasta water, then add the spaghetti and cook according to the pack timings.

Finely slice a third of the lemon.

Drain the pasta in a colandar but keep a little of the cooking water. Squeeze the juice of the remaining lemons into the sauce and season to taste with salt and black pepper, then tip in the pasta. Add a splash of the pasta cooking water, then add the lemon slices and toss to coat. Sprinkle generously with thyme leaves and serve.

(Original recipe from A Table for Friends by Skye McAlpine, Bloomsbury, 2020.)

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Roast Chicken with Coconut Rice and Beans

Posted in Chicken, Food, tagged , , , , , , , , on 21 March 2023| Leave a Comment »

This is all cooked in the oven in one tray and it’s super tasty.

Wine Suggestion: This works really well with Viognier, especially if it has a bit more depth than some entry level ones. We would have loved to open a Condrieu, but in the absence of that it was Jean-Michel Gerin’s Le Champine Viognier from the slopes near the more famed appellation. So well balanced with a purity of stone fruit flavours and a hint of nuttiness that lends itself to this food pairing.

Roast chicken with coconut rice and beans – serves 4

  • 8 chicken drumsticks
  • 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 1 tbsp jerk seasoning
  • 25g butter
  • 275g basmati rice, rinsed
  • 1 x 400ml tin of coconut milk
  • 350ml hot chicken stock
  • a bunch of scallions, thinly sliced
  • 1 x 400g tin of kidney beans, drained and rinsed
  • 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6.

Rub the chicken drumsticks with the oil and jerk seasoning.

Generously grease a large roasting tin with the butter.

Add the rice, then pour in the cococnut milk and chicken stock.

Scatter over half the scallions, then the kidney beans, garlic and thyme and stir gently.

Arrange the drumsticks on top, then cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes.

Remove the foil and roast for another 15 minutes or until the drumsticks are golden brown and cooked through.

Garnish with the rest of the scallions and serve.

(Original recipe from More Midweek Meals by Neven Maguire, Gill Books, 2022.)

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Alphabeto in Brodo

Posted in Chicken, Food, Pasta, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , on 15 March 2023| Leave a Comment »

Comfort food at its best. Don’t be tempted to strain the chicken broth of fat, it adds to the flavour and don’t skimp on the salt. You can use the poached chicken meat for sandwiches, or something else.

Alpabetto in Brodo – serves 4 (the recipe makes double the quanity of broth needed and it will keep in the freezer)

  • 800kg chicken thighs (skin on and bone-in)
  • 1 onion, peeled and halved
  • 1 carrot, peeled and halved
  • 1 stick of celery, halved
  • 1 bay leaf
  • a few peppercorns
  • 200g alfabeto
  • grated Parmesan, to serve

Put the chicken into a large heavy pan, cover with 2.5 litres of cold water and add a large pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and use a slotted spoon to spoon off any scum.

Add the vegetables, bring back to the boil, then turn the heat to low, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Strain through a fine sieve, pressing down on the veg and chicken to extract all the flavor. You won’t need the chicken after this but you should strip the meat from the bones and keep it for something else.

Bring 1 litre of the broth to the boil, add the alfabeto and cook until al dente. Ladle into bowl and add grated Parmesan.

(Original recipe from An A-Z of Pasta by Rachel Roddy, Penguin: Fig Tree, 2021.)

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Fregula with Sausage and Saffron

Posted in Food, Italian, Pasta, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , on 5 March 2023| Leave a Comment »

So fregula is fregola, pearl couscous, giant couscous, mograbia(h) as well as some other names, but it is essentially tiny pasta balls. We’ve cooked with it before but this time Jules bought it by accident and we had to find a recipe to use it up. Somewhat like a risotto, but the texture is a touch more unctuous. Quite a rich and flavoursome dish.

Wine Suggestion: This dish requires a powerful red with a fresh core of acidity. Taking inspiration from a Risotto Milanese pairing we opened a Pira Luigi Barolo Serralunga from 2018. Youthful and expressive aromatics of leather, violets & wild berries plus hints of tar. This flowed into an energetic and refined palate with elegant, but persistent tannins; almost lifted and light, but with a deep core of rich fruits.

Fregula with sausage and saffron – serves 4

  • 1 clove of garlic
  • 6 tbsp olive oil
  • 120g sausage meat, crumbled – try to find meaty Italian sausages if you can
  • 4 sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
  • 2 sprigs of thyme
  • a small piece of chilli
  • 1 litre stock – meat or veg – we used turkey stock
  • 350g fregula (see note above)
  • a few strands of saffron
  • 60g pecorino, grated

Put the stock into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer.

Smash the garlic clove but leave it whole, then put into a deep frying pan with 3 tbsp of the olive oil. Fry gentluy over a medium-low heat.

Add the sausage, sun-dried tomatoes, thyme and chilli, and fry, stirring, for a couple of minutes.

Add the fregula to the sausage and stir for a minute. Then start adding the stock, a ladelful at a time, the same as you would if cooking risotto. Keep both pans simmering as you keep going like this. Start tasting the fregula after 12 minutes and cook until al dente. You are looking for a loose rather than stiff consistency.

Add the saffron, pecorino and 3 tbsp of olive oil and serve.

(Original recipe from An A-Z of Pasta by Rachel Roddy, Penguin:Fig Tree, 2021.)

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Cajun Chicken Melts

Posted in Chicken, Food, tagged , , , , , , , , , , on 26 February 2023| Leave a Comment »

Perfect Saturday lunch – if the sun would shine it would be nice to eat outside.

Cajun chicken melts – serves 4

  • 4 chicken breasts
  • 1 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 2 heaped tsp Cajun spice
  • 4 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
  • 3 tbsp mayonnaise
  • 4 slices sourdough
  • 150g mature Cheddar, grated
  • 200g green salad leaves

FOR THE SALAD DRESSING:

  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tsp honey
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4.

Put the chicken into a baking dish and rub with the oil, then sprinkle over the Cajun spice and season with salt and pepper. Pour about 4 tbsp of water into the dish around the chicken, then roast for 18-20 minutes or until just cooked. Leave to cool, then slice.

Mix half the chilli sauce in a small bowl with the mayonnaise and season.

Put the sourdough onto a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Spread the chilli mayo over the bread and arrange the chicken slices on top. Cover with the grated cheese and drizzle the rest of the chilli sauce on top, then finish with the pesto. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and golden.

Meanwhile make the salad dressing by putting the oil, vinegar, honey and mustard into a container with 2 tbsp of water and blending until smooth, then season. Putt the salad leaves into a bowl and use enough of the dressing to lightly coat the leaves.

Arrange the Cajun chicken melts on plates with the dressed salad on the side.

(Original recipe from More Midweek Meals by Neven Maguire, Gill Books, 2022.)

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Honey & Soy Glazed Salmon with Green Quinoa

Posted in Fish, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on 23 February 2023| Leave a Comment »

And so we’ve realised that we do like quinoa after all. This green salad is delicious and the quantity given below is half that suggested by Neven Maguire. Feel free to double if you think you can manage it.

Wine Suggestion: We think this suits a young, fruit forward Cabernet Franc like Olga Raffault Cuvée Domaine. Unoaked and joyful dark cherry fruits with a crispness and earthiness that really complements the kale, spinach and watercress.

Honey and Soy Glazed Salmon with Green Quinoa – serves 4

  • 100ml soy sauce
  • 3 tbsp honey
  • a good pinch of chilli flakes
  • 1 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 1 tsp sesame oil
  • 4 salmon fillets, skin on

FOR THE QUINOA:

  • 75g quinoa
  • 150ml vegetable stock
  • 50g curly kale, remove the stalks
  • 50g baby spinach
  • 50g pistachios, toasted and chopped
  • 40g watercress
  • ½ an avocado, diced
  • ¼ cucumber, deseeded and finely diced
  • 1 tbsp chopped coriander
  • lime wedges, to garnish

Rince the quinoa then put into a small saucepan with the vegetable stock and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid and simmer gently for 10-12 minutes until tender and the stock has been absorbed. Tip into a large bowl and leave to cool.

Put the soy sauce, honey and chilli flakes into a small bowl and whisk to combine.

Prep the rest of the ingredients for the quinoa and fold them gently in to the cooled quinoa. Taste and season with salt and black pepper.

Season the salmon fillets, then heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the rapeseed and sesame oil, then fry the salmon fillets, skin side up, for 2-3 minutes, until lightly golden. Turn them over gently and cook for another 4 minutes. Turn the heat to hight and pour in the honey and soy mixture. Allow to simmer for a couple of minutes, spooning the sauce over the salmon, it should thicken to a syrupy sauce.

Put the quinoa onto a large serving platter and sit the salmon fillets on top. Drizzle over the syrupy sauce and garnish with the lime wedges.

(Original recipe from More Midweek Meals by Neven Maguire, Gill Books, 2022.)

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