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Archive for August, 2023

A nice late-summer dish by Thomasina Miers in the Guardian. Pastry is not one of our strong points but we managed this Parmesan crust and it was well worth the effort.

Wine suggestion: Try this with a restrained, cooler climate white like Domaine Gayda’s Sphere Chardonnay which comes from the hills leading up to the Pyrenees so cooled both by altitude and cool breezes descending from the hills at night. A touch of oak brings it together and while not complex there is an effortless drinakability and character, perfect for this summery quiche.

Tomato and Red Onion Quiche – Serves 6

  • 500g mixed tomatoes, halved
  • 2 medium red onions, cut into wedges
  • about 15 pitted black olives, roughly chopped
  • a handful of oregano leaves
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • a splash of red wine vinegar
  • 2 whole eggs, plus 2 egg yolks (you can keep the whites to glaze the tart)
  • 60g Parmesan, finely grated, plus 1 tbsp extra for the top
  • 400ml double cream

FOR THE PASTRY:

  • 110g wholemeal flour
  • 220g plain white flour
  • 220g chilled unsalted butter, cut into cubes, plus extra for greasing the tin
  • 70g Parmesan, finely grated

Start by making the pastry. Tip both flours and the chilled butter into a food processor with half a tsp of fine sea salt and the Parmesan. Pulse a few times so the butter is in big flakes. Trickle in 5 tbsp of ice-cold water and pulse a few more times – you need to be able to form a rough lump with it (add an extra tbsp of water only if you need it). Transfer to a floured work surface and bring together into a ball. Flatten into a disc, wrap in paper and leave in the fridge for 1-2 hours.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7.

Put the tomatoes, cut side up, on a lined baking tray, scatter over the onions, olives and oregano, season generously, then drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar. Roast for 15-20 minutes or until starting to caramelise.

Turn the oven down to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.

Grease a 28-30cm tart tin. Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured surface and lift using your rolling pin into the greased tin. Make sure it’s big enough to leave an overhang on the sides. Push the pastry into the corners, then lightly prick the base with a fork and put in the fridge for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat the eggs and yolks in a bowl, then pour in the cheese and cream and season lightly.

Line the chilled tart case wth foil, pushing it well into the edges. Blind bake for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and brush the tart case with the reserved egg white loosened with a splash of milk. Bake for another 5-10 minutes or until light brown.

Transfer the tomatoes, onions and olives to the tart case, then gently pour over the cream mixture and scatter with the last tbsp of Parmesan. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until set and golden brown. Cool in the case until just warm, then trim the edges of the pastry and serve with a salad.

(Original recipe by Thomasina Miers in The Guardian, 22 July 2023.)

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We can’t get enough of St Tola, a delicious goats’ cheese from County Clare. Here it is with some courgettes and mint in a summery risotto.

Wine Suggestion: Something suitably summery and white, like Domaine Ventenac’s “Marie”. Made from Vermentino and Colombard this tastes of lemons with a hint of grapefruit plus white flowers, touches of green apples and an under-current of salty texture. Zippy and round with a fun and easy finish.

Courgette Risotto with St Tola & Mint, serves 4

  • 1.5 litres vegetable stock
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • a large bunch of scallions, very finely sliced
  • 350g Carnaroli rice
  • a glass of dry white wine, Russel Norman suggests Sauvignon Blanc but we used a Vermentino-Colombard blend
  • 2 medium courgettes, cut into quarters lengthways, then sliced into 3cm lengths
  • 150g St Tola goats’ cheese
  • a large handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped
  • a large knob of butter
  • the zest of ½ a lemon

Heat the stock and leave it simmering gently.

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan over a gentle heat. Gently sauté the scallions with a good pinch of salt for about 10 minutes, until they are soft and shiny but not browned. Mix in the rice and make sure all the grains are coated in the oil. Turn the heat up a bit a pour in the wine.

Start adding a ladeful of stock at a time and gently stirring until absorbed before adding the next one. Keep going like this for 8 minutes.

Add the courgettes and stir to combine, then keep adding the stock for another 6 minutes. Crumble half the goat’s cheese and mix it in along with the mint. Stir well and cook for another 4 minutes or until the rice is al dente. Season to taste.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter and remaining crumbled goat’s cheese. Fold these gently into the risotto, then cover and rest for a minute. Serve in warm bowls with some black pepper and lemon zest.

(Original recipe from Venice by Russell Norman, Fig Tree, 2018.)

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All cooked in one pot and very tasty.

Wine Suggestion: It was a rare, for this year, sunny and warm day in Dublin that coincided with us making this dish so we straight away opened a Chateau Léoube Rosé from Provence that we had chilling for this moment (for far too long!). A properly dry Rosé with gentle red fruits and a long, fresh and savoury finish.

Pork and chorizo paella – serves 4

  • 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 1 onion, finely sliced
  • 1 clove of garlic, finely sliced
  • 2 large vine tomatoes, grated (throw away the skin)
  • 1 red pepper, finely sliced
  • 225g Iberico pork steaks (we used Irish pork butt though Dunnes sometimes has Iberico pork steaks)
  • 100g fresh chorizo, tear off the casing and crumble roughly or cut into small chunks
  • 1 tbsp tomato purée
  • 250g paella rice
  • a good pinch of saffron, soaked in a little just-boiled water
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • ½ tsp fresh thyme leaves
  • 600ml hot chicken stock
  • 1 x 290g jar of grilled artichokes in olive oil, drained and quartered
  • 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4.

Put the oil into a large shallow casserole dish with a lid (if you don’t have one of these use a roasting tin and use a double layer of tinfoil to cover). Add the onion, garlic, grated tomatoes, red pepper, pork chorizo and tomato purée. Stir gently to combine, then roast, uncovered, for 20 minutes.

Stir in the rice, saffron, paprika and thyme, then pour in the stock and season generously. Stir gently to combine. Arrange the artichokes on the top.

Turn the oven down to 160C/325F/Gas3.

Cover the casserole with a tight lid or a double thickness of foil. Bake for an hour or until the stock has been absobed and the paella is starting to catch at the edges.

Serve with the parsley and lemon wedges scattered over the top.

(Original recipe from More Midweek Meals by Neven Maguire, Gill Books, 2022.)

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There is nothing difficult about this dish but despite the ease of cooking this tastes sophisticated and has bags of flavour. Inspiration from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage, a book jam-packed with delicious things! Serve with some grilled sourdough.

Wine Suggestion: A good Sangiovese is our suggestion and we particularly enjoyed the Morisfarms Mandriolo from the Maremma on the Tuscan coast. With crushed raspberry flavours layered over a smooth dark berry core and aromas of violets this cut through any richness and gave it all a lift, adding an extra dimension to the meal. Just what we wanted with this complex and sophisticated meal.

Poached fish and charred tomatoes – serves 4

  • 4 x 100g white fish fillets e.g. cod or hake, skin and bones removed
  • 1 tbsp lime juice
  • 1 tsp fine salt

FOR THE AÏOLI:

  • 3 egg yolks
  • ¼ tsp fine salt
  • ½ a small clove of garlic, crushed
  • ¼ tsp sweet paprika
  • pinch of saffron
  • 50g light olive oil

FOR THE BROTH:

  • 250g cherry tomatoes
  • 1 Scotch bonnet chilli, whole
  • ½ tsp fine salt
  • 5 tbsp olive oil
  • 3 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped
  • ½ tsp paprika
  • 1 tbsp tomato purée
  • 5g fresh coriander
  • 5g fresh basil
  • 350g water
  • 15g unsalted butter
  • 1 jalapeño or green chilli, thinly sliced
  • 70g pitted green olives, roughly chopped
  • 1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
  • grilled sourdough, to serve

Place the fish in a dish with the lime juice and fine salt. Mix to coat, then aside while you prep everything else.

Make the aïoli by putting the egg yolks, salt, garlic, paprika, some black pepper and saffron into a medium bowl and whisk until smooth. Add half the oil and whisk hard for 30 seconds or until the mixture starts to thicken. Add the rest of the oil and whisk hard again for about a minute, then stir in the vinegar. You should end up with loose mayonnasie consistency.

Heat a large sauté pan over a high heat until smoking hot. Add the tomatoes and Scotch bonnet and cook for about 6 minutes, give the pan a shake now and then to get a bit of char on the tomatoes.

Remove from the heat and add the salt, oil, garlic, paprika, tomato purée, half the coriander and half the basil. Mix well then return to the heat and stir-fry for a couple of minutes. Add the water and butter and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 5 minutes, squeezing most of the tomatoes into the broth.

Lay the fish fillets into the broth, then cover with a lid and cook for a few minutes, or until just cooked through. Remove from the heat and leave covered for 2 minutes.

Throw away the Scotch bonnet and top the dish with the green chilli, olives and remaining herbs. Serve with the aïoli spooned on top and with lime wedges and grilled bread on the side.

(Original recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)

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Our favourite vegetarian cookbook at the moment is East by Meera Sodha. This is an Indian main course dish but it’s like a soup and works well as both a mid-week dinner, and in a flask for lunch the next day. Also vegan and gluten-free if this is useful information for you. Serve with crusty bread.

Black-eyed bean and chickpea usal – serves 4

  • 4 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 2 red onions, chopped
  • 2 long green chillies, very finely chopped
  • 4 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • 2 large vine tomatoes, chopped
  • 1¾ tsp salt
  • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
  • 1 tsp garam masala
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp ground turmeric
  • 1 x 400g tin of black-eyed beans, drained
  • 250g frozen peas, defrosted
  • 1 x 400g tin of chickpeas, drained
  • 200g mangetout
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • a handful of coriander leaves, finely chopped

Heat the oil in a saucepan over a high heat. Add the onion and chillies and cook for about 10 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for a minute more.

Add the tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes or until they have broken down, then add the salt and spices and stiry-fry for another minute.

Stir in the black-eyed beans, peas, chickpeas and mangetout and continue cooking for 5 minutes.

Add the lemon juice and coriander, then taste and season with more salt if needed.

(Original recipe from East by Meera Sodha, Penguin, 2019.)

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Gill Meller is a master of salads (among other things) and this one is no exception. We’ll also definitely be barbecuing more lettuce after trying this.

Barbecued little gems with cucumber, white beans and tahini – serves 8 as a side

  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
  • 1 x 400g tin of butter beans, drained
  • juice and zest of 1 lemon
  • 2 tbsp tahini
  • 4 tbsp natural yoghurt
  • 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
  • 4 little gem lettuces, halved, washed and patted dry
  • 1 medium or 2 small cucumbers, halved lengthways and cut into 1.5 cm slices
  • a small bunch of chives, finely chopped and a few left whole to garnish

Light your barbecue.

Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a medium frying pan over a medium-high heat, then add the garlic and fry for about 30 seconds, then add the white beans and lemon zest. Stir to combine and cook for another minute or two to warm through the beans. Stir in the tahini, yoghurt, lemon juice and parsley, and 2 tbsp of water. Cook for another minute or two, until a spoonable consistency. Add a bit more water if it’s too thick, then remove from the heat.

Season the little gems with salt and pepper and drizzle with 1 tbsp of oil. Place over the hot barbecue with the cut sides down and grill for 5-10 minutes on each side – they should be softened, and starting to caramelize and char. Place on a platter when done.

Warm the bean and tahini dressing through and stir well, then spoon it over the lettuce. Scatter over the cucumber, sprinkle with chives, then drizzle with the rest of the oil and season everything with salt and pepper. Serve.

(Original recipe from Gather by Gill Meller, Quadrille Publishing, 2017.)

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This is a great dish for some leftover roast chicken.

Wine Suggestion: This is great with a fun Chardonnay like from Domaine Gayda’s Sphere range. Serious, but light hearted and with a fresh, minerality at it’s heart this suits a creamy and summery pasta dish like this.

Casarecce with chicken, pancetta, peas & cream – serves 4

  • 225g casarecce pasta
  • 15g butter
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 70g pancetta, cubed
  • 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
  • 200g cooked chicken, torn into pieces
  • 175g frozen peas
  • 250ml double cream
  • finely grated zest of half a lemon
  • leaves from 6 sprigs of mint, roughly torn
  • freshly grated Parmesan, to serve

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and season generously with salt. Cook the pasta in the water according to the timings on the pack. Make the sauce while the pasta is cooking.

Melt the butter in a deep frying pan, then add the onion and pancetta and cook gently until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes, then stir in the chicken, peas, cream and lemon zest. Bring the sauce just to the boil and then turn down and add the mint. Season with salt and pepper and allow to mingle over a low heat for a minute or two.

Drain the pasta and return to the saucepan. Pour the sauce into the pasta pan and add some grated Parmesan. Stir to combine, then serve in warm pasta bowls with extra Parmesan.

(Original recipe from A Bird in the Hand by Diana Henry, Mitchel Beazley, 2015.)

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Inspired by a gift of some runner beans from a friend’s allotment, plus we just had to buy the fresh peaches we stare at everytime we walk past the veg shop. Once cooked it looks less vibrant than the flavours suggest – an excellent way to cook both the beans and peaches and a great combo. Delicious with some barbecued pork chops.

Barbecued peaches and runner beans – serves 4

  • 400g runner beans, peel both sides with a vegetable peeler to remove the stringy bits, then trim both ends and halve widthways at an angle
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 ripe but firm peaches, cut into ½ cm thick slices
  • 5g mint leaves, roughly torn
  • ¾ tbsp lemon juice
  • 80g creamy goat’s cheese, we used marinated St Tola, broken into 4cm pieces
  • 20g ready-roasted and salted almonds, roughly chopped
  • ¾ tbsp runny honey

Toss the beans with 2 tbsp of the olive oil and ½ tsp of flaky salt. Cook the beans on a hot barbecue (ideally on a griddle pan so you don’t lose any through the bars) for 3-4 minutes on each side or until you get good grill marks and they are almost cooked through. Transfer to a bowl and cover with a plate. You can leave them now for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how soft you like them, they will be more crunch at the shorter time but we like them soft.

Drizzle 1 tbsp of oil over the peach slices and toss to coat. Grill for 1-2 minutes on each side, until you get nice grill marks.

Toss the beans and peaches together in the bowl with the mint, then transfer to a serving dish. Sprinkle over the lemon juice and some flaky salt and black pepper. Scatter over the the goat’s cheese and almonds and finish with a drizzle of honey.

(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Flavour by Yotam Ottolenghi and Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2020.)

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A dish from Falastin, it’s packed with flavour and we recommend adding the optional black olives and feta cheese. A green salad and some crusty bread is also a good choice. The tomato sauce and coriander sauce can both be made in advance, just char your cherry tomatoes and fry the prawns at the end.

Wine Suggestion: Despite this being a seafood dish we think a Southern French red is the way to go with this. Tonight something quite special: Roc des Anges Unic which is a super expressive Grenache with a thrilling tension and energy.

Prawn and tomato stew with coriander pesto – serves 4

  • 250g cherry tomatoes
  • 60ml olive oil
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 4 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • 2cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated
  • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed in a pestle and mortar
  • 1½ cumin seeds, lightly crushed in a pestle and mortar
  • 8 cardamom pods, lightly bashed in a pestle and mortar
  • 20g dill, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp tomato purée
  • 6 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped
  • 600g peeled raw king prawns
  • a handful of black kalamata olives (optional)
  • 100g feta cheese, crumbled into chunky pieces (optional)

FOR THE CORIANDER PESTO:

  • 30g coriander, roughly chopped
  • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
  • 50g pine nuts, lightly toasted
  • 1 lemon, finely grate the zest to get 1½ tsp, then cut into wedges to serve
  • 80ml olive oil

Toss the cherry tomatoes with 1 tsp of oil. Heat a large sauté pan over a high heat, then add the cherry tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until charred and blistered. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Wipe the pan out, then add 2 tbsp of olive oil and place over a medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook for 8 minutes, stirring now and then, until softened and lightly browned. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli, spices, dill and tomato purée, then cook for another 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the plum tomatoes and 300ml of water, 1½ tsp salt and plenty of black pepper. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat and simmer for 25 minutes or until thickened and the tomatoes have broken down.

Meanwhile, make the coriander pesto. Put the coriander, pine nuts and chilli into a food processor and pulse a few times, just until the pine nuts are roughly crumbled. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the olive oil, lemon zest, ¼ tsp of salt and some black pepper. Stir to combine and set aside.

Dry the prawns well then mix in bowl with ¼ tsp of salt, 1 tbsp of oil and plenty of black pepper.

Put 2 tsp of oil into a large frying pan and place on a high heat. When the pan is hot, add the prawns in batches and fry for a minute on each side, until cooked and browned.

Stir the cooked prawns and the charred tomatoes into the tomato sauce and cook over a medium heat for another 3 minutes, to heat through. Transfer the prawns and tomatoes to a serving dish, drizzle over some of the coriander pesto and sprinkle over the olives and crumbled feta.

(Original recipe from Falastin by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wrigley, Ebury Press, 2020.)

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Yes, we know it’s like November outside but here’s a barbecue recipe for the next time the sun shines.

Wine Suggestion: We think the smokiness of Chipotle works well with the gentle and velvety spices of Grenache, or blends with this the dominant grape. From Jesus Romero in the obscure central Spanish village of Teruel is his Rubus which is grown on old terraced vineyards. A project of rediscovering and unearthing an old Roman tradition in an area depopulated and abandoned during the Spanish civil war. Bravo for the effort and idea, and bravo for the delicious wine: minimal intervention, just careful guidance to an expressive and joyous fruit.

BBQ Chicken & Corn Salad with Chipotle Yoghurt Dressing – serves 4

  • 1 tbsp smoked paprika, plus ½ tsp
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 tsp chipotle paste, plus 1 tsp
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • 2 limes, 1 zested and juiced, cut the other into wedges to serve
  • 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying
  • 6 chicken thigh fillets
  • 150g natural yoghurt
  • 2 tsp honey
  • 2 corn cobs, husks removed
  • 2 little gem lettuces, halved and leaves separated
  • 1 x 400g tin black beans, drained and rinsed
  • 200g cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 2 avocados, cut into chunks
  • 2 corn tortilla wraps
  • a small bunch of coriander, leaves picked and roughly chopped

Mix the parika, oregano, 1 tbsp chipotle paste, cinnamon, garlic, lime zest and 2 tbsp oil in a bowl with some seasoning. Pour this mixture over the chicken thighs, then cover and chill for a few hours or overnight.

Get your barbecue ready for cooking, or heat a griddle pan over a high heat.

Mix the yoghurt, lime juice, 1 tbsp olive oil, ½ tsp paprika, 1 tsp chipotle paste and the honey with a pinch of salt, set aside.

Brush the corn cobs with a little oil, then cook it and the chicken on the barbecue (or griddle) for about 10 minutes, turning often, until cooked through.

Transfer the chicken and corn to a plate and cover to keep warm.

Arrange the lettuce, beans, tomatoes and avocado on a large platter.

Cut the tortilla wraps into strips and heat a drizzle of oil in a frying pan. Fry the strips until crisp and golden, then drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with salt.

Slice the cooked chicken into strips and cut the corn from the cobs. Add the chicken and corn to the salad, then drizzle over the dressing and any juice from the chicken. Toss everything gently together. Scatter over the coriander and tortilla strips, and serve with the lime wedges on the side.

(Original recipe from BBC Good Food)

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A very tasty lunch. Good for holidays, or a lazy weekend.

Prawn & black bean quesadillas – serves 2

  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely sliced
  • 1 red pepper, thinly sliced
  • 150g raw king prawns
  • 1 large clove of garlic, crushed
  • 2 tsp hot smoked paprika
  • ½ a small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
  • ½ x 400g tin black beans, drained
  • 2 large flour tortillas
  • 80g grated mozzarella
  • mixed salad and hot sauce, to serve (optional)

Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the onion and pepper and cook for about 10 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add the prawns to the pan and cook for 3 minutes, then add the garlic and paprika and fry for another minute. Stir in the coriander and beans, then season.

Heat another large non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Put a tortilla in the pan and cover half with half the bean and prawn mixture and half the cheese. Flip the other side over to make a semi-circle and do the same with the second tortilla in the other half of the pan (or you can do one at a time if easier). Put a saucepan or something heavy on top to press down on the tortillas and cook for a minute or two. Carefully flip them over and weigh down for another minute or two. Cut each tortilla in two and serve with salad and hot sauce if you like.

(Original recipe from BBC Good Food).

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Fresh and summery and an opportunity to eat more peaches. There was a burrata shortage the day we made this and so we had to substitute mozzarella.

Mozzarella, tomato & peach salad – serves 4

  • 400g large ripe tomatoes, ideally heirloom and/or beefsteak
  • 400g ripe peaches or nectarines
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • a splash of white wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp dried oregano, plus extra to serve
  • 1 large ball of burrata (or buffalo mozzarella)
  • a small handfull of pine nuts, toasted

Slice the tomatoes into rounds, removing the cores.

Stone and slice the peaches into wedges. Put the tomatoes and peaches into a mixing bowl with the some olive oil, white wine vinegar and the dried oregano and toss to coat. Season with salt to taste.

Arrange the tomatoes and peaches on a platter and put the burrata in the middle. Drizzle with more olive oil and sprinkle with a little dried oregano. Season with flaky sea salt and black pepper. Scatter over the toasted pine nuts and serve.

(Original recipe from Stagioni by Olivia Cavalli, Pavillon, 2022.)

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