A dish for when you arrive home tired from work and realise you have almost nothing in the cupboard to eat … except pasta, a lurking packet of pancetta and a block of parmesan (a staple in our most fridges).
Wine Suggestion: A simple, dry Rosé caught our fancy, to reflect the long day and store-cupboard cooking. A reliable and refreshing wine-rack staple is the Domaine Gayda Flying Solo Rosé. Made from Grenache and Cinsault in the Languedoc by Tim Ford, an old friend, this is refreshing and has a classic textural character that allows it to be drunk with food like tonight, as well as sipped and enjoyed in the sunshine on its own.
Life-saving creamy pancetta and Parmesan pasta – serves 2
77g pack of pancetta cubes (that is one half of the two pack they come in)
2tbsp olive oil
600ml chicken stock
200g fusilli pasta
75ml double cream
30g Parmesan, finely grated
a handful of basil leaves, shredded
Heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan, then add the pancetta and cook until crisp.
Add the stock and pasta, bring to a simmer, then cook until tender (start testing a little before the suggested timings on the pasta pack).
Stir in the cream and Parmean and simmer for a couple of minutes, then season really well with plenty of black peper.
Stir in the basil and serve.
(Original recipe by Janinie Ratcliffe in Olive Magazine, June 2019.)
We make moussaka once a year … usually in the summer on a rainy day as it takes a bit of time and attention. This is the fourth version on the blog and we can’t decide which one we prefer and usually alternate between this recipe by Neil Perry and this one by Tamasin Day-Lewis. Recently someone sent us a message and suggested that we try a version by Tessa Kiros from Falling Cloudberries. Tessa’s version has a layer of fried potatoes which is an excellent addition and a really thick layer of bechamel on top – yet again another excellent moussaka recipe to add to our list. We love all three but they’re all slightly different. A delicious conundrum.
You can prepare the fried vegetables and mince a few hours in advance and layer it up in the dish but don’t make the béchamel until you’re ready to bake the moussaka. You will need a large rectangular dish about 35cm long, 24 cm wide and 6 cm deep.
Wine Suggestion: If you are lucky enough to have a Xinomavro, or Agiorgitiko to hand from Greece we’d highly recommend pairing with this. We had none lying around so instead opened a wonderfully fresh old-vine blend of Garnacha Fina and Garnatxa Peluda (Grenache Noir varieties) from Terra Alta in Spain. The Edetària via Edetana Negre is so expressive and minerally with red plum and deep, earthy cherry flavours and a balsamic twist. It shows why this region should be regarded as one of the best in the world for this grape, both red and white, with it’s combination sunshine, altitude, and fresh breezes on a landscape formed by an ancient sea bed.
Moussaka – serves 8
2 large aubergines (about 1kg)
light olive oil for frying
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 tbsp chopped flatleaf parsley
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
850g minced pork and beef
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp dried oregano
1 bay leaf
125ml white wine
500g tomato passata
500g potatoes
FOR THE BÉCHAMEL SAUCE:
120g butter
125g plain flour
1 litre warm milk
freshly grated nutmeg
Slice the tops off the aubergines, then slice lengthways into 5mm thick slices. Sprinkle generously with salt and set aside in a bowl for about 30 minutes.
Heat tbsp of the oil in a wide, deep saucepan. Sauté the onion until soft and golden, then add the parsley and garlic and cook for another minute, then add the mince. Cook over a medim-high heat until beginning to brown, then add the cinnamon, oregano and bay leaf and season with salt and pepper. Keep cooking until the mince is browned, then add the wine and allow most of it to evaporate off before adding the passata. Leave to simmer for 30 minutes, uncovered, if it looks dry add a splash of water.
Meanwhile, cut the potatoes lengthways into 5mm thick slices and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Heat 4-5 tbsps of the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan and fry the potatoes in batches over a medium heat, until golden on both sides and cooked through. Remove to a plate lined with kitchen papper and sprinkle with a little salt.
Rinse the salt from the aubergine with cold water and pat dry. Fry the aubergine slices in the same oil that you used for the potatoes. When they are golden on one side, turn the slices over and prick any hard bits with a fork. Continue cooking until they are almost collapsing, then drain on kitchen paper. You will need to add another tbsp of olive oil between each batch as the aubergines tend to suck it up.
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4.
Arrange half the aubergine slices over the base of the dish, you can overlap them a little if needed. Add the potatoes in a single layer if possible, then top with half the mince, pressing down with the back of a large spoon. Add the rest of the aubergine in a layer and top with a final layer of the mince, pressing it down.
Melt the butter for the béchamel in a saucepan, then whisk in the flour and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly. Begin adding the warm milk, a ladleful at a time, until you have a thick white sauce. Stir continually until the sauce begins to bubble then allow to simmer for 5 minutes, still stirring. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and grate in a little fresh nutmeg. Spoon the sauce over the mince to completely cover.
Bake for 45 minute to an hour or until golden on top. If the moussaka comes near to the top of your dish you might like to put a baking sheet underneath to catch anything that bubbles over. Leave to cool for about 15 minutes before cutting into squares to serve. A green salad is all you need on the side.
(Original recipe from Falling Cloudberries by Tessa Kiros, Mudrdoch Books Pty Limited, 2004.)
There’s no better holiday dish than a big bowl of mussels. Serve with crusty bread to mop up all the juice.
Wine Suggestion: A fruity, fresh and vibrant white is what we wanted here so we opened the Katxina Txakoli from the Basque country. We know it might be harder to find something made from Hondarribi Zuri but this grape is a great accompaniment to the local tapas, shellfish and pimenton.
Harissa Mussels – serves 2 to 4
olive oil, for frying
50g salted butter
1 large onion, halved and sliced
6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
2 heaped tsp rose harissa
1 kg mussels, scrubbed and beards removed
300ml white wine
1 heaped tsp clear honey
½ tbsp sea salt flakes
about 15g dill, fronds finely chopped
Heat a large saucepan over a high heat.
Add enough olive oil to cover the base of the pan, then add the butter and onion and cook until just starting to colour. Add the garlic and cook for a minute, keep stirring so it doesn’t burn.
Add the mussels to the pan and stir in the harissa to coat the mussels. Add the wine, honey and salt and mix well. Cover the pan with a lid and allow the mussels to cook until all the shells have opened – about 4 minutes.
Remove the lid, stir the mussels and mix in the chopped dill.
Serve in a large warm bowl.
(Original recipe from Sirocco by Sabrina Ghayour, Mitchell Beazley, 2016.)
We love a tomato salad and reckon we’ll be making this one all summer. Great for a barbecue.
Baked feta and tomato salad – serves 4
1 block of feta
100ml olive oil, plus 1 tsp
a drizzle of runny honey
½ tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed
1 tsp fresh oregano leaves, or a good pinch of dried oregano
½ tsp pul biber
600g mixed tomatoes
2 tbsp kalamata olives, pitted
2 tsp red wine vinegar
a handful of basil
Heat the oven to 220C/200C/Gas 7.
Rub the feta with a tsp of olive oil. Place on a sheet of foil, then drizzle over the honey and sprinkle with the coriander seeds, oreganoa and pul biber. Wrap the foil around the feta to make a sealed parcel then bake for 10 minutes.
Unwrap the foil and roast for another 5-10 minutes or until caraemelised.
Meanwhile, slice the tomatoes and put them into a large bowl. Sprinkle over a good pinch of sea salt and lots of black pepper. Stir in the olives and red wine vinegar and set aside.
Spoon the tomatoes onto a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil (use a nice one). Sprinkle over the basil leaves and set the baked feta on top.
(Original recipe by Rosie Birkett in Olive Magazine, June 2023).
We spotted this salad idea in the Guardian so ate it outside with a barbecue … perfect!
Green salad with carrots and pistachios – serves 4
4 carrots, grated
1 tsp Dijon mustard
20g sultanas
5 tsp white wine vinegar
60ml olive oil
1 small clove of garlic, crushed
100g plain yoghurt
½ tsp caster sugar
10g mint leaves, finely chopped
20g parsley leaves, finely chopped
1 baby gem lettuce, leaves separated and halved lengthways
1 white chicory, leaves separated and halved lengthways
1 butterhead lettuce, leaves separated and large ones halved lengthways
30g pistachios, toasted and lightly crushed
Mix the grated carrots with the mustard, sultanas, 4 tsp of white wine vinegar, 1 tbsp of olive oil and ½ tsp of salt in a small bowl, then leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dressing in a large bowl by mixing 1 tsp white wine vinegar with 3 tbsp of the olive oil, the garlic, yoghurt, sugar, ¼ tsp of salt and plenty of black pepper.
Combine the chopped mint and parsley in a bowl.
Put the salad leaves and half the chopped herbs into the bowl with the dressing, then toss gently to coat.
Arrange the leaves on a shallot serving platter or bowl and scatter the marinated carrot on top. Serve with the rest of herbs and the pistachios sprinkled over.
(Original recipe by Yotam Ottolenghi in the Guardian.)
Sometimes it’s nice to cook the sides on the barbecue too. These skewers are tasty and could even be a main course with some salad.
Barbecue halloumi, potato and jalapeños with sour cream – serves 4
1 x 225g packet of halloumi cheese, cut into 3cm pieces
500g baby new potatoes, boiled until tender
2 jalapeño chillies (or other green chillies), cut into pieces and seeds discarded
1 large red onion, cut into pieces
3 tbsp olive oil, plus more to serve
1 tsp paprika
1 lemon, quartered
150g sour cream
chilli flakes, to serve
Put the halloumi, cooked potatoes, jalapeños and onion into a large bowl. Add the olive oil, paprika and juice from 2 of the lemon quarters. Season with salt and member and toss gently with your hands.
Thread everything onto metal skewers and cook on the barbecue for 5-10 minute, turning, until golden and lightly charred.
Grill the extra lemon quarters on the barbecue while the skewers are cooking.
Season the sour cream with a good pinch of salt.
Transfer the skewers to a platter and drizzle with the sour cream. Trickle over some olive oil and the juice from the barbecued lemons, then sprinkle with a few chilli flakes.
(Original recipe from Camper Van Cooking by Claire Thompson, Quadrille, 2021.)
Jono picked this Iranian dish for his Father’s Day breakfast. It’s delicious! Serve with naan bread, tortillas or toast.
Broad beans with garlic, dill & eggs – serves 4
olive oil
1 bulb of garlic, cloves bashed and thinly sliced
1kg podded frozen broad beans, skins removed (blanch for a couple of minutes and the skins will pop off easily)
3 tsp turmeric
generous tsp crushed sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
60g dill, stalks and leaves finely chopped
25g butter
4 large free-range eggs
Heat a large deep frying pan over a low-medium heat, add a generous drizzle of olive oil and sweat the garlic until it softens. Add the broad beans and increase the heat to medium, then add the turmeric, sea salt and some black pepper and stir well. After 5 minutes, mix in the chopped dill and cook for another 8 minutes.
Add the butter to the pan and let it melt into the beans. Crack the eggs on to the surface of the beans and allow to cook using the heat from the beans – about 15 minutes. The beans will be a dull green by the end of the cooking time. Serve with your bread of choice.
(Original recipe from Persiana by Sabrina Ghayour, Mitchell Beazley, 2014.)
Look at the colour of these! A perfect starter or snack before the spring veg disappears.
Broad bean crostini with asparagus & dill – serves 4
160g broad beans
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
50g feta cheese, crumbled
1 tsp honey
juice of half a lemon
a large handful of dill fronds
4 slices of sourdough
1 clove of garlic, halved
4 blanched asparagus spears
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the broad beans for 5-6 minutes or until tender. Drain and tip them into a bowl of ice-cold water, then pop the beans out of their pods and transfer to a food processor.
Add the olive oil, feta, honey, lemon juice and dill to the food processor, then season with black pepper and whizz to a purée.
Meanwhile, brush the bread with some olive oil and toast or griddle until golden, then rub with the cut side of the garlic clove.
Finely chop the asparagus spears and toss with a little olive oil and lemon juice.
Spread the broad bean purée over the toast and top with the asparagus and some extra dill.
After such a long, cool and wet Spring we are finally having sunny weather in Ireland and so we’re cooking anything over fire … on sticks … and lots of salads. Long may it last!
Wine Suggestion: If you’re having this as a starter we’d highly recommend a good, dry Oloroso like the Bodegas Hidalgo Oloroso Faraon which is nutty, smokey, round and honeyed on the nose, but with an enveloping roundness and richness on the palet, despite being bone dry. Very savoury and great with food.
Pork and Asparagus Kebabs – serves 4
500g pork fillet, cut across the grain into ½ cm thick slices
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
1-2 tsp smoked paprika
3 tbsp olive oil
250g asparagus, woody ends snapped off and cut into thirds (don’t buy the very skinny stuff for this as it will be difficult to thread onto the skewers)
1 bunch of scallions, sliced into thirds
Put the pork into a large bowl, then add the garlic, smoked paprika, olive oil and sherry vinegar, then stir well to coat. Cover and put into the fridge for an hour or two, then stir in the asparagus and scallions to coat in the marinade.
Thread pieces of pork, aspargus and scallion onto skewers.
Prepare your barbecue for direct cooking, then place the skewers directly over the heat and cook for about 10 minutes, turning a couple of times to ensure they brown and cook through.
(Original recipe from Foolproof BBQ by Genevieve Taylor, Hardie Grant: Quadrille, 2021.)
This is perfect for mid-week, super easy and very easy to assemble and bake in the oven. You can cover the dishes and freeze them if you like, then cook from frozen, uncovered for 30-35 minutes.
Wine Suggestion: With a floral, herbal and stonefruit character that’s backed up with a very textural green almond note Sartarelli’s Verdicchio Superiore Tralivio is just the business for this dish. Tomasso Sartarelli really has a feel for this cuvée and how to get the best from the old vines this is made from and it has such a natural balance it makes it so easy to drink when first released, like we’re doing tonight. However, with a bit of will power, it ages superbly too.
Pesto salmon with tomatoes, spinach & beans – serves 6
100g baby spinach
3 x 400g tins cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
300g cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tbsp olive oil
1 lemon, zested and juiced
6 tbsp Philadelphia cheese or other soft cheese
4 tbsp fresh pesto
150g breadcrumbs
40g Parmesan, grated
3 tbsp pine nuts
6 salmon fillets
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/Gas 6.
Divide the baby spinach 6 individual baking dishes. Spoon over the beans and tomatoes and drizzle with the olive oil. Sprinkle over the lemon zest and squeeze over the juice, then season well. Toss with your hands to mix everything together.
Mix the soft cheese with the pesto in a bowl.
In another bowl mix the breadcrumbs with the Parmesan and pine nuts.
Place a salmon fillet into each dish and season well. Spoon over the pesto mixture, then the breadcrumb mixture, pressing it down. A bit will inevitably end up in the beans and that’s ok.
Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the salmon is cooked (a probe should read 60C) and the crumbs a nice golden colour.
Cooking a whole chicken on the barbecue can be a bit tricky but it is much easier if you spatchcock the chicken. This is quite easy and we do this ourselves; cutting out the backbone with poultry shears and then turning over and flattening out by pushing down on the breast. There are plenty of videos online to help, or just ask your butcher to do it, they never mind.
A temperature probe is also an essential piece of kit when barbecuing all meat as its the best way of determing if the meat is cooked underneath any charring. They are relatively inexpensive, but a worthwhile investment. There’s a reason professionals use them and they help remove the risk of being under-done. Cooking over fire (or gas) is inexact and using the probe has meant that any timings are just a guide; sometimes the dish is done early as it’s hotter than last time, or takes more time than planned. The probe can help you get this right.
We served this sesame sticky rice and and a Thai salad.
Wine Suggestion: As it’s summer barbecue time, a good Provençal rosé, the Love by Léoube, was opened to great success. With the thai aromatic flavours and chilli you need to avoid to much tannin especially, but with charry barbecue chicken a bit of body is still needed which these rosés give, despite their light colour and freshness. The hints of gentle strawberry and raspberry flavours really picked up on the mint and lime too.
Barbecued chicken with coconut & soy – serves 4
2kg free-range chicken
1 tbsp olive oil
200g tin coconut milk (you can buy little tins or just use half a regular tin and freeze the rest for later)
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp soft brown sugar
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce
zest and juice of 1 lime
a few sprigs of mint, leaves chopped
2 red chillies, chopped
You need to get your barbecue ready for both direct and indirect cooking (i.e. hot coals on one side only).
Slash the breast and legs of the chicken with a sharp knife.
Rub the chicken with olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.
Lay the chicken on the indirect side of the barbeuce. Put something heavy on top to weight it down, we used a cast-iron frying pan, then shut the lid and leave to cook for 45 minutes. Rotate the chicken a couple of times to make sure it cooks evenly but keep the skin-side up.
Mix the coconut milk, garlic, sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce and lime zest together to make a baste for the chicen.
Once the initial 45 mintues is up, turn the chicken skin-side down and cook for another 10 minutes, with the lid on.
Now move the chicken over the coals to cook over a direct heat and start basting with the coconut mixture. Keep basting and turning for 10 to 15 minutes or until nicely browned and cooked through. A probe should read 74C.
Chop the cooked chicken into large pieces, then squeeze over the lime and scatter over the mint and chilli.
(Recipe inspiration from Foolproof BBQ by Genevieve Taylor, Hardie Grant: Quadrille, 2021.)
For no particular reason we’ve started cooking frittatas at last … why did no-one tell us how simple they are to make? We particularly enjoyed this one with mackerel and dotted with horseradish cream. Serve with a green salad.
Smoked mackerel and spinach frittata – serves 6
60g butter
50g baby spinach, washed and drained but still damp
220g smoked mackerel
3 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped
4 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tbsp chopped dill
8 eggs, lightly beaten
3 tbsp crème fraîche
1 tsp horseradish sauce
Preheat the oven to 190C/170C/Gas 5.
Melt 20g of the butter in a heavy non-stick frying pan, about 25-30cm diameter, over a medium heat. Stir in the spinach, then cover with a lid and leave for a minute or two until wilted. Tip into a colander and leave to cool. Wipe the pan out with kitchen paper.
Put the cooled spinach into a bowl. Break the mackerel into pieces, discarding any skin and bones, and add to the bowl with the spinach. Add the scallions and herbs, then pour in the eggs and stir until will combined. Season with salt and pepper.
Melt the rest of the butter in the wiped-out pan and place back over a medium heat. Swirl the pan so the base is coated in butter, then tip in the frittata mixutre and smooth out. Let the eggs cook gently for about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk the crème fraîche and horseradish together, then dot over the top of the frittata. Put the pan in to the oven and cook for about 12 minutes or until set and golden on top.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes before cutting. It will be delicious eaten warm or cold.
(Original recipe from Notes from a Small Kitchen Island by Debora Robertson, Michael Joseph, 2022.)
We were lucky to be gifted some top quality Persian saffron by our friend Miriam and therefore couldn’t go past this recipe, and with asparagus still available we couldn’t resist doing this despite it edging into summer.
Wine Suggestion: As this is quite rich, but also has the fresh vegetables, it lends itself to a deftly handled new world Chardonnay. Au Bon Climat is our go to choice and their Wild Boy is a perfect expression with a good blend of butter, ripe fruits and a flinty, salty core.
Saffron risotto with spring veg – serves 4
1.2 litres vegetable stock (we use Marigold Swiss Bouillon)
½ tsp saffron threads
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
a knob of butter
1 onion, finely chopped
350g risotto rice
150ml dry white wine
50g freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra to serves
FOR THE VEGETABLES
175g frozen broad beans, blanched and popped out of their skins
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
a knob of butter
2 small leeks, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 tbsp dry white wine
1 bunch of fine asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2.5cm pieces
100g frozen peas
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp chopped chives
juice of ½ lemon
Bring the stock to a gentle simmer in a saucepan.
Heat a sauté pan over a medium-high heat. Add the saffron and heat for a minute, shaking the pan, until the threads are dry and fragrant.
Add the oil and butter to the saffron, then tip in the onion and add plenty of seasoning. Sauté for 5 minutes, until softened but not coloured. Stir the rice into the onion and cook for 1 minute to coat the grains in the oil, then pour in the wine and bubble for a minute, stirring.
Add a ladle of stock to the rice pan and stir until completely absorbed. Keep adding a ladle of stock at a time, stirring until absorbed before adding another.
After 10 minutes, and at the same time, start cooking the veg. Heat a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and butter, then add the leeks and garlic. Season with salt and sauté for 4-5 minutes, until tender. Pour in the wine and allow to bubble down.
Add the asparagus and a splash of the stock from the risotto and simmer for a couple of minutes, until bright green and tender but still crisp. Add the broad beans and peas and cook for another 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the herbs and lemon juice; season to taste.
While this is happening, continue cooking the risotto, adding stock as necessary. After about 25 minutes the rice should be al dente. Remove from the heat, stir in the Parmesan and season to taste.
Divide the risotto between warm plates and spoon the veg into a well in the centre, then scatter over some more Parmesan and serve. We like a drizzle of best olive oil over the top too.
(Original recipe from More Midweek Meals by Neven Maguire, Gill Books, 2022).
A lovely light curry from Made in India by Meera Sodha. It’s quick to make and perfect for a friday night. We served with rice.
Wine Suggestion: As this dish is quite light we think grenache based rosé is the way to go here with Chateau Pesquié Terrasses Rosé being our choice tonight. The delicate red fruits complementing the salmon really well and the open, softer nature of the grape taking on the spiciness and rounding it out.
Salmon and Spinach Curry – serves 4
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 cinnamon stick
6 whole peppercorns
2 cloves
1 large onion, chopped
½ tsp brown sugar
250g ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
4cm piece of ginger, peelend and finely grated
4 clove of garlic, crushed
1 fresh green chilli, finely chopped
¼ tsp garam masala
1 tsp ground cumin
1½ ground coriander
¼ tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp chilli powder
1¼ tsp salt
500g spinach leaves
400g skinless salmon fillets
Heat the oil in a large deep pan with a lid. Add the cinnamon stick, peppercorns and cloves and fry for a minute or two until fragrant.
Stir in onion and brown sugar, then cook for 10-12 minutes until golden and caramelized. Stir in the tomatoes, then cover with a lid and leave to cook for about 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes start to soften.
Add the ginger, garlic, and green chilli, then stir in the garam masala, cumin, coriander, turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Cook the mixture, stirring so it doesn’t stick, for about 8 minutes. It will start to look like a paste. Add the spinach, turn the heat down and cover with the lid until wilted.
Cut the salmon into very big chunks (about 6cm x 6cm) and add them to the pan. Coat in the tomato and spinach sauce but be careful not to break them up. Cover with the lid for 5-7 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.
Remove the cinnamon stick, check the seasoning and serve with rice.
(Original recipe from Made in India by Meera Sodha, Penguin:Fig Tree, 2014.)
Inspired by an extra cucumber in the veg drawer. A lovely meal for mid-week with crusty bread.
Wine Suggestion: Wines from the hills in South Western France are very underrated, especially when made by insightful provocative winemakers. The Domaine Coustarret Jurançon Sec is 100% Gros Manseng and has a great balance between a sappy, salty backbone overlayed with orange zest and fresh stonefruit flavours. Well worth seeking out.
Scandi baked meatballs with pickled cucumber salad – serves 4
400g pork mince
1 egg yolk
½ tsp allspice
100g breadcrumbs
1 small onion, grated
a handful of dill, finely chopped, plus extra to serve
1 tsp freshly ground white pepper
4 tbsp sour cream, seasoned
crusty bread, to serve
FOR THE PICKLED CUCUMBER SALAD:
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp caster sugar
½ cucumber, peeled and cut into half moons
1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
a handful of parsley, chopped
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Start with the pickled cucumber salad. Put the vinegar and sugar into a small saucepan and heat until the sugar has dissolved, then set aside to cool. Put the cucumber into a bowl, then pour over the cooled vinegar and add the mustard seeds. Stir and set aside.
Put the pork mince, egg yolk, allspice, breadcrumbs, grated onion, dill and white pepper, into a bowl. Season well, then mix with your hands until well combined. Form into 20 meatballs and set them into a large baking dish.
Put the meatballs into the hot oven for 20 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Drizzle with the sour cream and scatter over the reserved dill. Serve with the cucumber salad and crusty bread.
(Original recipe by Janine Ratcliffe in Olive Magazine, April 2017.)
You too can make a pasta cake like this on a Monday, trust us. Who knew it would be so easy to get cooked rigatoni to sit upright in a cake tin? The results are fun and although it will fall apart when you start serving, you can get your insta photo beforehand.
Wine Suggestion: Something fun, red and Italian like Umani Ronchi’s Rosso Conero Serrano. A blend of smooth Montepulciano and vibrant Sangiovese, this wine is fun and easy, but tied together with energy and vitality.
Torta di rigatoni – serves 4
butter, to grease the tin
4 tbsp breadcrumbs
325g rigatoni pasta
handful of basil leaves, finely chopped
250g mozzarella, cubed (buy a block of mozzarella, not buffalo)
50g grated Parmesan
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE:
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and bashed
2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
a handful of basil leaves
Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.
Line the base and sides of a loose-bottomed, 20cm round cake tin with baking parchment, then butter and coat in the breadcrumbs.
Get the sauce going first. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat, then add the garlic clove and cook for about a minute. Add the chopped tomatoes, most of the basil leaves and season well with salt. Cover and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta in lots of boiling salty water until al dente. Drain well, then mix with the chopped basil, half the mozzarella, some black pepper, half the tomato sauce (throw away the garlic) and half of the Parmesan. Leave to cool until the pasta is cool enough to handle.
Place the rigatoni upright in the cake tin. Pour over the remaining tomato sauce, then scatter over the rest of the mozzarella and Parmesan. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden. Leave to rest for 5 minutes before attempting to release from the tin, then scatter over a few basil leaves to serve.
(Original recipe by Gennaro Contaldo IN BBC Good Food Magazine, April 2020.)
We rarely make a proper starter but we do like nibbles that you can eat in your hand with a drink. These pastries are inspired by Sabrina Ghayour and are particularly tasty.
Wine Suggestion: At this time of year we look out for savoury and dry whites, and from Crete we chose an Assyrtiko from Nikos Karavitakis. His Nomas cuvee is crisp, dry, appley citrus with a stony salinity and savoury finish; just perfect for a salty, savoury, herby pastry like this. Sunshine on a plate, and in a glass.
Za’atar, tomato, olive & feta pastries – makes 9
1 x 320g ready-rolled puff pastry sheet
150g sunblush tomatoes in oil, drained and patted dry with kitchen paper, then roughly chopped
200g feta cheese, crumbled
75g pitted Kalamata olives, roughly chopped
2 tbsp za’atar
Heat the oven to 200C/Gas 6.
Line a large baking tray with baking paper.
Cut the pastry into 3 vertically and then horizontally to give 9 rectangles.
Mix the tomatoes, feta, olives and za’atar together in a mixing bowl and season generously with black pepper.
Divide the mixture between each pastry rectangle. Put spoonfuls in the centre and pat with your fingers to flatten it down.
Take 2 corners of the pastry and twist them together like a sweet wrapper. Repeat with the 2 remaining corners, leaving the filling exposed in the middle. Repeat with each piece of pastry.
Put the pastries onto the lined baking tray and bake for 25 minutes, or until golden brown.
Remove from the oven and cool slightly, they are best served warm.
(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster, 2022.)
This is an Iberico pork dish inspired by José Pizarro. We did not have any Iberico and substituted Tamworth free-range pork from our butchers instead. This is not quite the same but the dish was still lovely, but of course use Iberico if you can find it.
Wine Suggestion: A dish that begs for a Spanish Garnacha.
Pork shoulder in tomato & sherry sauce with lemony couscous – serves 6
2 tbsp olive oil
1.5kg shoulder of pork (or Iberico pork), cut into 5cm chunks
2 red onions, finely sliced
3 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
2 tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed
1 tbsp tomato purée
150ml oloroso sherry
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
400ml chicken stock
FOR THE COUSCOUS:
1 red onion, finely sliced
juice of 1 lemon
250g couscous
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
450ml chicken stock
a large handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped, plus extra to serve
2 preserved lemons, skin finely sliced and pulp discarded
½ cucumber, peeled, deseeded and finely diced
30g toasted flaked almonds
Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3.
Season the pork with salt and pepper, then heat the olive oil in a large casserole and fry the pork in batches until well browned on all sides.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, then add the onions to the dish and fry gently for 10 minutes, then add the garlic and coriander seeds and fry for another 5 minutes.
Add the tomato purée and sherry and bubble for 1 minute, then return the pork to the pan and add the tomatoes and stock. Season and bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2½-3 hours or until the meat is really tender.
Meanwhile, prepare the couscous. Put the onion into a heatproof bowl, then pour over boiling water from the kettle and leave to sit for 30 seconds. Drain and cool under running water. Tip the onion back into the bowl and squeeze over the lemon juice and season with salt. Set aside.
Put the couscous into a flat dish and stir in the olive oil and a good pinch of salt, then pour over the chicken stock. Stir and cover with clingfilm, then leave to steam for 10 minutes. Remove the cover and fluff the couscous up with a fork. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir to combine.
Serve the pork with the couscous, the pickled onion and its juices, and some extra parsley.
(Original recipe from The Spanish Home Kitchen by José Pizarro, Hardie Grant, 2022.)
Who doesn’t love a dauphinoise? This one is extra special with some smoked mackerel and is a meal in itself with some green salad on the side.
Wine Suggestion: Chardonnay is not commonly found in the Loire, but there are gems to be found, especially around the appellation of Cheverny where it is brilliantly blended with Sauvignon Blanc. Tonight an outlier from Touraine, Domaine Bellevue’s IGP Chardonnay. Classic crisp red apple flavours with layers of tropical and citrus notes; good body but without any flabby weight. Perfect for fish and dairy combination
Smoked mackerel dauphinoise – serves 4
900g potatoes
250ml milk
250ml double cream
a small clove of garlic, crushed
freshly grated nutmeg
225g smoked mackerel, skin and bones removed and flaked into chunky pieces
a small handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley
Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.
Peel the potatoes and slice very thinly, a mandoline is the best job for this but watch your fingers. Dry the potatoes slices with a clean cloth, then spread out and season with salt and black pepper, mixing with your hands.
Pour the milk into a saucepan, add the potatoes and bring to the boil. Cover, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Add the cream, garlic and a generous grating of nutmeg and continue simmering for another 20 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent the potatoes sticking to the pan. As soon as the potatoes are cooked, remove them with a slotted spoon and put a layer into a large ovenproof dish. Sprinkle over the mackerel and parsley, then cover with the rest of the potatoes. Pour the creamy liquid over the top. Put some water into the base of a large roasting tin and set the potato dish into the tin, the water should come about half-way up the sides. Bake the dish in the oven for 10 to 20 minutes or until the top is golden and bubbling.
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