This has a surprising umaminess given the short cooking time. A dish for mushroom lovers.
Wine Suggestion: We enjoy pairing mushroom dishes with Nebbiolo and really enjoy stepping outside the box to find versions made outside it’s native Piedmont. Tonight a glass of Clendenen Family Vineyards (Au Bon Climat) “Pip” from the Santa Maria Valley in California, which despite it getting some of the famous sunshine, is also a very cool area with fog … just like Piedmont. We liked it a lot.
Porcini sauce for tagliatelle – serves 2
40g dried porcini
4 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped
½ tsp chilli flakes
10g fresh parsley (stalks and leaves), finely chopped, plus extra to serve
a big pinch of fine sea salt
1½ tbsp tomato purée
about 50 twists of freshly ground black pepper
250g dried tagliatelle
40g Parmesan, very finely grated, plus extra to serve
3 tbsp double cream
Put the dried porcini into a bowl and cover with boiling water, then leave to soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 75g of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the porcini so it is like the consistency of mince, then set aside.
Put the oil, garlic, chilli flakes, parsley and fine salt into a large sauté pan, then place over a medium-low heat. Fry very gently for 5 minutes or until soft, taking care that the garlic doesn’t turn brown.
Increase the heat, then add the chopped porcini, tomato purée and the pepper. Stir-fry for a few minutes, then set the pan aside while you cook the tagliatelle.
Cook the pasta in boiling salty water until al dente, then drain and reserve 350g of the pasta water.
Return the sauté pan to a medium-high heat, then add the reserved porcini and pasta water. Bring to a simmer and leave to bubble for a few minutes. Add half the Parmesan, stir until melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat, then stir in the cream, followed by the cooked pasta. Toss over the heat for a minute or two until the sauce comes together.
Remove from the heat and serve with more Parmesan and olive oil.
(Original recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)
Rajma or spiced kidney beans from Dishoom. Delicious with rice and raita.
Wine Suggestion: We found the rich, mealy textured beans paired well with Luigi Pira’s Langhe Nebbiolo. The fruity, spice and lighter nature wasn’t too serious for this dish, and the oomph from the tannins was a good counterpoint to the richness and depth in the beans.
Rajma – serves 2 to 4
35ml vegetable oil
5g ginger paste (see recipe below)
5g garlic paste (see recipe below)
1 black cardamom pod
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
15g tomato purée
1g fine salt
100g onion-tomato masala (see recipe below)
400g tin kidney beans
½ tsp garam masala
50g tomatoes, chopped
a good handful of coriander leaves, chopped
25g butter
TO SERVE:
red onion, finely sliced
ginger matchsticks
coriander leaves, roughly torn
lime wedges
Warm the oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and cook for a few minutes, stirring, until no longer raw.
Add the cardmamom pod, bay leaf and cinnamon stick and cook for 1 minute. Add the ground cumin, chilli powder, tomato purée and salt and cook for a few minutes, or until the oil starts to separate.
Add the onion-tomato masala and bring to a simmer, stirring, then add the kidney beans along with their liquid. Simmer for 15 minutes or until reduced and thickened.
Add the garam masala, tomatoes, chopped coriander and ginger and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the butter.
Serve garnished with the red onion, ginger and coriander and with lime wedges for squeezing over.
Onion-tomato masala – makes about 450g
300ml vegetable oil
1.2kg Spanish white onions, finely diced
35g garlic paste (see recipe below)
30g ginger paste (see recipe below)
1¾ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
30g tomato purée
2 tsp fine sea salt
600g good quality tinned tomatoes
Warm a deep, heaving frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and warm before adding the onions. Let the onions caramelise to a deep brown, stirring regularly. Add a splash of water if they are at risk of burning. This should take 25-30 minutes.
Add the garlic and ginger paste and sauté until light golden brown, stirring all the time.
Add the chilli powder, tomato purée and salt, then sauté for 2 minutes.
Add the chopped tomatoes, stir well and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring often. The tomatoes should break down completely and caramelise a bit in the oil, you can add a splash of water if it starts to dry up.
Freeze any masala that you are not using.
Ginger and Garlic Pastes – makes about 170g (keep in the fridge covered with oil for 10 days)
3 bulbs of garlic or 180g fresh root ginger
25ml vegetable oil, plus extra to store
Peel the garlic or ginger and roughly chop.
Whizz the garlic or ginger with with the oil to make a smooth paste.
Store in a sterilized jar covered with oil in the fridge.
(Original recipes from Dishoom by Shamil Thakrar, Kavi Thakrar & Naved Nasir, Bloomsbury, 2019.)
We love dhal and this cheat’s version is delicious! It’s similar to a dhal makhani but a fraction of the effort to make. We will never be without 2 tins of lentils again! Serve with rice or naan of course.
Wine Suggestion: a regular grenache, Domaine Ventenac’s “les Dissidents” Paria because it has an effortless freshness and gentle plummy, warm spices of a juicy core of red fruit.
Cheat’s Dhal – serves 4 to 6
2-3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp tomato purée
2 x 400g tins green lentils, drained
50g butter
150ml double cream
300ml boiling water
Heat a large heavy saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the vegetable oil and the onion and stir-fry until softened and starting to brown at the edges.
Stir in the spices until the onions are coated, then add the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the lentils, then the butter and stir until melted. Pour in the cream and season generously, then pour in the water and stir again.
Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and creamy. Season to taste and serve.
(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster, 2022.)
We love this easy pasta dish. If you haven’t cooked smoked salmon before you should.
Wine Suggestion: this is a deceptively rich dish and we think needs something like a fuller Pinot Gris, like Au Bon Climat’s blend with Pinot Blanc which is treated very much like a Burgundian Chardonnay and is both textured and vibrantly fresh with flavours of fresh pears, toasty creaminess and gentle spices.
Pasta with smoked salmon & mascarpone – serves 4
400g farfalle
200g smoked salmon
125g mascarpone
20g butter, at room temperature
zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
dill, snipped
Cook the pasta in lots of salty water until al dente.
Meanwhile, cut the salmon into short pieces with scissors and put them into a large warm serving bowl along with the mascarpone, butter and lemon zest. Ladle some pasta cooking water into the bowl to loosen to a cream, then taste and add salt if needed.
Drain the pasta, reserving some more pasta water, then tip on to the sauce and gently mix together, adding more cooking water if needed. Serve, sprinkled with dill.
(Original recipe from An A-Z of Pasta by Rachel Roddy, Penguin: Fig Tree, 2021.)
This would be nice on the big day or any other day.
Cabbage with bacon & chestnuts – serves 6
700g winter cabbage
2 tbsp olive oil
200g streaky bacon, finely chopped
200g vacuum-packed chestnuts, roughly chopped
butter
Remove the stalks from the cabbage and roughly chop.
Bring a large pan of salty water to the boil and cook the cabbage for 3-4 minutes or until tender, then drain and leave to dry in the pan.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the bacon over a medium heat until starting to get crispy. Add the chestnuts to the bacon and stir so they absorb the bacon fat. Add the cooked cabbage, a knob of butter and seasoning. Toss together and serve.
This dish takes a while but it’s a waiting game for the most part and you will be richly rewarded. A good value dish for lamb lovers!
Wine Suggestion: a succulent red with gentle spices and if you can push the boat out something like Ridge’s superlative Lytton Springs. All blackberry, raspberry, coffee and warm spices, but with fine, layered tannins and a chalky undercurrent.
Lamb pilaf with orzo – serves 4
800-900g lamb neck fillet
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground allspice
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp tomato purée
300ml dry white wine
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp sugar
1 chicken stock cube
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
250g orzo
TO SERVE:
85g feta
1 tbsp chopped thyme
1 tbsp chopped mint
finely grated rind of 1 lemon
Heat the oven to 160C/Fan 140C/Gas 3.
Cut the lamb neck fillets in half lengthways and don’t trim off any fat. Cut each half fillet crossways into bite-size pieces.
Heat a good glug of olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan until hot, then sear the lamb in batches over a medium-high heat until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon to a large casserole.
Turn the heat down and add the chopped onion. Fry for a few minutes until golden brown, then add the garlic, cinnamon and allspice and fry for another minute or two. Scrape the onion mixture into the casserole with the meat.
Pour the tin of tomatoes over the meat, then fill the can twice with water and add this too. Give it all a stir, then add the tomato purée, wine, lemon juice, and sugar. Crumble in the stock cube and add the thyme, ½ tsp salt and plenty of black pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2 hours, stirring halfway through.
Stir in the orzo then cover and return to the oven for 20 minutes or until the orzo is cooked, stirring halfway through. Crumble the feta over and sprinkle with the herbs and lemon zest to serve.
A green salad is all you need on the side.
(Original recipe from Mary Berry Cooks the Perfect, Penguin Random House Group, 2014.)
You can’t capture the autumn sliding into winter better than in this dish. It’s perfect for a weeknight main or a side dish at the weekend.
Wine Suggestion: We think Nebbiolo is such a natural pairing with mushrooms, but thought opening a Barolo or Barbaresco was a bit extravagant, so Luigi Pira’s Langhe Nebbiolo was chosen and the gentle leather, spice and tea leaf characters were a delight.
Roast potatoes with mushrooms, chestnuts & sherry – serves 4
1kg waxy potatoes
7 cloves of garlic, 4 unpeeled and smashed, 3 peeled and finely sliced
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
500g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
3 tbsp dry or medium sherry
75g cooked chestnuts, roughly chopped
a small bunch of flatleaf parsley, finely chopped
100g manchego or Parmesan cheese
Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.
Line a baking tray with baking paper.
Spread the potatoes over the lined tray alongwith the smashed garlic, olive oil and thyme. Season and toss, then roast for 15-20 minutes or until the potatoes are softened but not cooked through.
Add the mushrooms, sliced garlic and sherry to the potatoes and toss again. Cook for another 20-25 minutes or until the mushrooms and potatoes are cooked. Remove from the oven and add the chestnuts and parsley. Mix well and check the seasoning.
Shave the cheese over the top to serve.
(Original recipe by Claire Thompson in Olive Magazine, October 2020.)
It’s getting colder but we’re determined to keep barbecueing anyway. These burgers are worth making for the onions alone, and the burger is something else too!
Wine Suggestion: a lighter, fruit forward red with a bit of tannin structure. We love some of the still wines from the Douro in Portugal and Quinta de la Rosa’s DouRosa red is a gem. Just 12.5%abv but full of flavour and with lovely depth, length and fine tannins.
Put the pork, chorizo, garlic, parsley, and paprika into a large bowl. Season with a salt (not too much) and plenty of black pepper then pound with your hands until well combined. Shape into 4 balls, then press these down to make burgers about 1 cm thick. Put the burgers into the fridge until you’re ready to cook them.
Next, make the onions. Put a large deep saucepan over a low heat and add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted, tip in the onions and a little salt and pepper. Cook very gently for at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the sherry and allow to reduce for another 15 minutes or so.
Light your barbecue and if you have one put a fireproof hot plate or frying pan on to warm up (if you cook the burgers on a hot plate you won’t lose any bits through the grill). When it is really hot, add the burgers and press down with a fish slice. Cook for a couple of minutes, then turn and grill the other side for a minute before turning again. Top with the manchego slices and a good spoon of onions, then shut the lid and cook for another couple of minutes.
Lightly toast the burger buns, and add a handful of rocket to each. Add a burger and serve.
(Original recipe from Seared by Genevieve Taylor, Quadrille, 2022.)
All they want to eat is chicken nuggets – at least you know what’s in this version and they’re baked in the oven. Little wins!
Chicken dippers – serves 3 to 4
rapeseed oil spray
90g panko breadcrumbs
500g chicken breasts, cut into 1½ cm strips
¼ tsp fine sea salt
FOR THE BATTER:
1 egg
1 tbsp mayonnaise
1½ tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp plain flour
½ tsp fine sea salt
¼ tsp pepper
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan.
Spread the panko breadcrumbs onto a baking tray, spray with oil and bake for 7 minutes or until golden, then transfer to a bowl.
Get a grill pan and spray the metal rack with oil.
Put the batter ingredients in a bowl and whisk with a fork to combine. Add the chicken and toss to coat in the batter.
Pick the chicken pieces up with tongs and put into the breadcrumb bowl. Sprinkle the surface with the breadcrumbs and press with your fingers to make sure they stick. Transfer the breadcrumbed chicken to the metal rack and repeat until the chicken is all coated.
Spray the chicken pieces generously with oil, and sprinkle with salt. Bake for 15-20 minutes until cooked through.
Serve with ketchup or mayonnaise.
(Original recipe from Recipetineats Dinner by Nagi Maehashi, Pan Macmillan, 2022.)
You need to marinade the salmon for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours ahead. After that, it’s dinner in 15 minutes. We served with with some sticky rice and dressed Asian greens.
Wine Suggestion: This works with a good Pinot Gris, like Neudorf’s Tiritiri. An underestimated grape, given the oceans of bland Pinot Grigio sold, but in the right hands … the riper, richer and more textural French styled Pinot Gris is a joy. Neudorf’s version is all about mouth feel: depth, viscosity, and richness while staying deliciously clean and deceptively moreish. And the back-bone is a fresh, salty-stoney texture keeping it all clean and vibrant.
Sticky glazed salmon – serves 2-3
2-3 salmon fillets
rapeseed oil spray
FOR THE MARINADE:
1 tsp finely grated ginger
1 garlic clove, finely grated
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp oyster sauce
2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
TO SERVE
sesame seeds
1 scallion, finely sliced
Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a shallow dish, then add the salmon and turn to coat.
When you are ready to cook, heat the grill to high. Line a grill tray with tin foil and place the salmon fillets on top, skin-side down. Brush with the marinade but don’t pour if over as any on the tin foil will burn, discard any extra.
Put the salmon under the grill, about 15-20 cm away from the heat. Cook for 7 minutes, then remove and spray with the rapeseed oil. Put back under the grill for another 1-3 minutes or until nicely caramelised.
Allow the salmon to rest for 5 minutes before serving with the scallions and sesame seeds scattered over.
(Original recipe from Recipetin Eats Dinner by Nagi Maehashi, Pan MacMillan, 2022.)
An easy pasta dish from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour. Ready in 10 minutes and perfect for midweek.
Wine Suggestion: A crisp and fresh Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico which lifts the dish and adds an extra roundness and depth. Easy white peach flavours but with that classic green almond twist at the end that bring both wine and food together.
Penne with spicy tomato & mascarpone sauce – serves 2
200g penne pasta
2 tbsp olive oil
4 big garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tbsp tomato purée
150g mascarpone cheese
1 tsp pul biber chilli flakes
2 handfuls of Greek basil – we used some regular basil
Cook the pasta in plenty of salty water according to the timings on the pack.
Meanwhile, warm a frying pan over a medium heat, and add the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook gently until soft and translucent.
Add the tomato purée, mascarpone and most of the chilli flakes, then stir until you have a smooth sauce.
When the pasta is cooked, scoop it out with a slotted spoon and straight into the frying pan with the sauce. Season well with plenty of salt and black pepper. You might need to add a bit more pasta water to loosen to a creamy sauce.
Serve in warm bowls with a sprinkle of pul biber and the basil leaves.
(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster*, 2022.)
We’re having problems with our website at the moment which is why we haven’t been posting. We’ve a temporary fix in place and will hopefully get back to normal very soon. Not least because all the things we’ve been cooking will be out of season by the time we get around to posting them!
Make the base for this earlier in the day and bake when guests arive. We served with champ, buttered brussels sprouts and roasted carrots. You make quite a bit of roux and only use a bit, but its a very handy thing to have in the fridge at this time of year to thicken gravies and sauces.
Wine Suggestion: Pork and mushrooms often make us think of Nebbiolo, especially when there’s a rich sauce to cut through too. From a very traditional, but expressive winemaker Pira Luigi’s Serralunga Barolo is a classical expression of this famous region. They make some amazing Cru’s as well which always need time to evolve, but this cuvée we find is always more open in youth. Full-bodied and aromatic with tar and roses, the earthiness and truffle on the palate hold the balance between the full tannins and fresh acidity. It finishes long and regal as hoped.
Pork and mushroom pie – serves 4
FOR THE ROUX:
100g butter
100g plain flour
FOR THE PIE FILLING:
25g butter
2 onions, chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
700g shoulder or leg pork, cut into 2cm cubes
250ml chicken stock
1 tbsp olive oil
300g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
250ml cream
1 tbsp chopped parsley
FOR THE TOPPING:
300g puff pastry, rolled to 5mm
1 egg, beaten
Make the roux first by melting the butter over a medium heat, then add the flour. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, then pour into a small bowl. Keep in the fridge once cooled.
Preheat the oven to 160C, Gas 3.
Melt the butter for the pie filling in a medium casserole. Add the onions and season, then cover and sweat on a low heat for 5 minutes. Turn up the heat, then add the spices and the pork. Toss for a few minutes to colour the pork, then add the stock. Cover and cook in the oven for 45 to 50 minutes or until tender.
While the pork is cooking, heat the oil in a large frying pan, then add the mushrooms and fry until lightly coloured. Add the mushrooms to the pork after 30 minutes.
When the pork is cooked, remove the pork and mushrooms from the dish with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the cream to the pot and boil with the lid off for a few minutes. Slowly whisk in about 2 tbsp of the roux to thicken the sauce, adding in small pieces while the mixture is boiling. Add the chopped parsley, then return the pork and mushrooms to the pan. Season and transfer to a large pie dish.
Heat the oven to 230C, Gas 8.
Cover the dish with the pastry and make a hole in the centre to let out steam. You can decorate the top if you like with the excess pastry. Have fun doing this if you like we did.
Brush with the beaten egg, then cook in the oven for 10 minutes. Turn the heat town to 190C/Gas 5 and cook for a further 20 minutes or until golden brown.
Serve immediately with lots of veg.
(Original recipe from Rachel’s Food for Living by Rachel Allen, Collins, 2007.)
It’s the classic roast chicken but this time with fresh and preserved lemon. Yummy!
Wine Suggestion: We have a bit of a thing for dry Loire Chenin Blanc and were fortunate to visit Jacky Blot from Domaine de la Taille aux Loups earlier this year. Although he passed away not long after our visit, being able to taste the results of his work in a glass really keeps his memory alive. We opened a bottle of his Vin de France “Clos de la Bretonniere” with this dinner and were transported back to the tasting room and the couple of hours we spent with Jacky. A vibrantly dry Vouvray with tension and tautness in abundance and layers of minerally fruit, it paired beautifully with the roast chicken. Salut Jacky!
Roast chicken with preserved lemon – serves 4
70g butter, softened
3 tbsp thyme leaves
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 small preserved lemon, pips discarded and flesh and skin roughly chopped
1 lemon, zest finely grated, plus 1½ tbsp of juice
1 whole chicken
Heat the oven to 190C fan.
Put the butter, thyme, garlic, preserved lemon, lemon zest, ¼ tsp of salt and plenty of black pepper in a food proessor and blitz to combine.
Loosen the chicken skin over the breasts (careful not to tear it) and spread most of the butter mixture underneath. Spread the rest over the legs.
Put the chicken into a roasting tin and drizzle with the lemon juice and sprinkle over ½ tsp of salt and plenty of black pepper.
Roast the chicken for 20 minutes per 500g plus an extra 10 minutes, until the skin is golden brown and the juices run clear. Baste every 20 minutes as it cooks.
Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi, Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth, Ebury Press, 2018.)
This is very much a weeknight dish but it’s suprisingly good. Baking in a bag means very few dishes to wash which always helps. Serve with a green salad.
Wine Suggestion: try to find a good Vermentino with a medium body, not the richer ones with higher alcohol like you sometimes find from Sardinia and similar. A favoured one at the moment is Domaine Ventenac’s “les Dissidents” Cassandre from Cabardes in southern France.
Baked salmon with harissa and chickpeas – serves 2
1 unwaxed lemon
1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp clear honey
3 tsp harissa paste
150g roasted red peppers from a jar, sliced
15g coriander, roughly chopped
2 salmon fillets, skinned
1 tsp olive oil
Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5.
Tear off 2 large sheets of baking paper.
Halve the lemon and cut one half into thin slices.
Toss the drained chickpeas with the smoked paprika, honey, 1 tsp of the harissa paste, the peppers, most of the coriander and seasoning, then divide this between the two sheets of paper.
Season the salmon and spread each piece with 1 tsp of harissa, then place on top of the chickpeas and drizzle with the olive oil. Place the lemon slices on top, then fold over the edges to seal the parcels.
Put the parcels onto a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes or until the salmon is cooked. Open the parcels and scatter over the rest of the coriander, then serve with some salad on the side.
(Original recipe by Tom Mitchell-Dawson in Sainsbury’s Magazine, September 2023.)
We are still a bit apprehensive when cooking fish and shy away from the simple methods that require last minute cooking. We shouldn’t do this as they tend to be the dishes that show the fish at its best. We managed to conquer this one anyhow.
Wine Suggestion: Served with Domaine Rochette Morgon Régnié Cuvée des Braves, a red fruited Beaujolais from this sensitive and thoughtful family making wine in a Cru that is often overlooked. I say… expand your horizons beyond Morgon and Fleurie! Rich, powerful, and aromatically exquisite.
Plaice with Creamy Mushroom Sauce – serves 4
8 skinless, single plaice fillets (or 4 double fillets which you need to half lengthways)
45g plain flour
2 tbsp olive oil
15g butter
FOR THE SAUCE:
20g butter
200g small chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, crushed
120ml dry white wine
170ml double cream
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
juice of ½ a lemon
2 tbsp chopped dill
Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Sprinkle the flour onto a plate and season well with salt and pepper. Coat both sides of the fish fillets in the flour.
Heat 1 tbsp of the oil with the butter in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add 4 of the fish fillets and fry for 1½ minutes-2 minutes or until golden. Gently turn and fry for another 1½-2 minutes on the other side. Careful not to let the butter brown. Transfer the fillets to a serving platter, cover with foil and keep warm while you cook the rest.
To make the sauce, melt the butter in the same frying pan. Add the mushrooms and fry over a medium-high heat for a few minutes, then add the garlic and fry for another minute or so. Pour in the wine, stir and bring to the boil. Simmer for a couple of minutes, then pour in the cream. Simmer, stirring, until the sauce thickens.
Stir in the lemon zest and juice, season with salt and pepper and add the dill. Spoon the sauce over and around the fish and serve with a few extra dill sprigs if you like.
(Original recipe from Mary Berry Cooks the Perfect, Penguin Random House Group, 2014.)
The sauce here is fairly spicy but well-tempered by the fishcakes and lots of white rice and some yoghurt if you like. The depth of flavour and balance is superb. You can cook the sauce and prep the kofta mixture in advance.
Wine Suggestion: this works with Grenache – Tempranillo blends, especially if they’re fruit forward and low/no oak like Jesus Romero’s Rubus from rural Aragon. We love this as it’s real hands-off winemaking at it’s best, capturing the essence and energy of the fruit in the vineyard.
Fish koftas in chilli and tomato sauce – serves 4
FOR THE KOFTAS:
500g firm white fish without skin and bones, we used hake
4 scallions, finely sliced
10g dill, roughly choped, plus extra picked fronds to serve
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1½ tsp finely grated lemon zest
1 egg, beaten
30g panko breadcrumbs
3 tbsp olive oil
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE:
15g dried ancho chillies, stems removed
2 tsp caraway seeds, toasted and roughly crushed
1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and roughly crushed
6 cloves of garlic, peeled
1 onion, roughly chopped
60m olive oil
1 green chilli, halved and seeds removed
1 tbsp tomato purée
3-4 plum tomatoes, roughly grated and skins discarded
300ml chicken stock or vegetable stock
2 tsp caster sugar
25g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
Make the sauce first. Put the dried chillies into a bowl and cover with lots of boiling water. Leave to soak for 20 minutes, then drain and discard the liquid and the seeds. Roughly chop the chillies and put them into a food processor with two-thirds of the caraway and cumin seeds, the garlic, the onion and 2 tbsp of the oil. Whizz until you have a coarse paste.
Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large sauté pan, then add the chilli paste, green chilli and tomato purée. Cook for 7 minutes, stirring frequently, until soft and fragrant. Add the tomatoes, stock, 200ml water, sugar, half the coriander, 1¼ tsp of salt and a good grind of pepper and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, then keep warm until needed (or cool and re-heat later).
Meanwhile, make the koftas. Finely chop the fish into ½-1cm pieces. Put them into a large bowl with the scallions, dill, chilli, lemon zest, egg, panko, the rest of the coriander, the remaining caraway and cumin, 1 tsp of salt and plenty of black pepper and mix well to combine. Form into 12 round fish cakes, pressing to compact them so they don’t fall apart.
Heat 1½ tbsp of oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add half the koftas and cook for 2½ minutes on each side, or until golden. Transfer to a plate, then repeat with the rest of the koftas.
Bring the sauce to a simmer. Add the koftas, then turn the heat to medium low and cook for 10 minutes. Leave to sit for 5 minutes, then serve with the extra dill.
(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Shelf Love by Noor Murad & Yotam Ottolenghi, Ebury Press, 2021.)
We had planned to cook this outside on a fire pit until Jono lit a blazing inferno and scared us off. It was the excitement of being outside after a year of rain! A simple dish and such a treat.
Wine Suggestion: We just think smoked haddock and a good, oaked Chardonnay are a match, with some of the best value and superb quality coming from the new world. Tonight was Neudorf’s Tiritiri Chardonnay which was elegant and rounded, with a supreme balance, hints of smoky oak and layers of texture, nuts and finishing fresh and vibrant. Under-rated and such a treat.
Smoked haddock and spinach gnocchi – serves 2
100ml double cream
a few big handfuls of young spinach, roughly chopped
200g skinless smoked haddock fillet, cut into bitesize pieces
200g fresh gnocchi (from the fridge section)
1 tsp grainy mustard
25g mature cheddar cheese, grated
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped
Put a large, deep frying pan over a medium-high heat.
Pour the cream into the pan with a few tablespoons of water. Add the spinach and fish and cook for a minute or two. Add the gnocchi, mustard and cheese and stir gently. Add a bit more water if the sauce is too thick.
When everything is heated through, remove the pan from the heat and add plenty of black pepper. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley to serve.
(Original recipe from Outside by Gill Meller, Quadrille, 2022.)
Typing this recipe to the sound of lashing rain and howling wind but better weather is coming and you might be inspired to barbecue a cabbage. You will be very glad you did.
Barbecued cabbage with chilli and garlic butter – serves 2 as a side
1 pointed/hispi cabbage, cut into 4 wedges
2 tbsp olive oil
FOR THE DRESSING:
1 long shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, halved, desseded and finely sliced
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
50g butter
½ tsp flaky sea salt
a small bunch of dill, fronds roughly chopped
Brush the cut surfaces of the cabbage wedges with the olive oil, then set them cut-side down on a very hot barbecue to char for about 4 minutes. Turn to char the other cut surface for 4 minutes, then set the wedges on the rounded sides for a final 4 minutes. Remove to a platter and sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
Meanwhile, combine the shallots, chilli and garlic with the butter and put over a low heat to melt the butter and lightly cook the vegetables. Cook for about 12-14 minutes or until the shallots are soft and translucent. Remove from the heat and mix in the salt and chopped dill. Pour the butter dressing over the warm cabbage and serve.
(Original recipe from Chasing Smoke: Cooking Over Fire Around the Levant by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich, Pavilion, 2021.)
There are a few bits to this but it’s not complicated – trust the process and start the night before, dinner will be easy tomorrow. Serve with a green salad.
Wine Suggestion: We think this dish works really well with a fruit forward, medium bodied red like a Grenache. We’re particularly enamoured at the moment by Jesus Romero’s Rubus, a Garnacha Tempranillo blend made with minimal intervention. Good grapes that ferment themselves in tank, then left to settle for a few months and bottled with a touch of sulphur to keep it stable. Pure brambly red fruits with a purple fruited core, gentle spices and tannins and an easy, but complex nonetheless, finish.
Chicken, chorizo & spinach pie – serves 6
1 tbsp olive oil
125g cooking chorizo or chorizo ring, skin removed and chopped
2 onions, thinly sliced
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
250g baby spinach
200g leftover roast chicken, shredded
4 tbsp crème fraîche
500g Maris Piper or similar potatoes
2 x 320g sheets ready-rolled puff pastry
plain flour, for dusting
125g mature cheddar cheese, grated
1 egg, beaten
Make the filling first. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat and cook the chorizo for a few minutes or until the oil is released. Add the onions, season and cook for 10 minutes or until soft and starting to caramelise.
Add the garlic and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the spinach in batches, stirring until wilted. Remove the pan from the heat and add the chicken and crème fraîche. Season to taste, then tip into a bowl and leave to cool, then chill in the fridge.
Peel the potatoes and thinly slice. Boil in salted water for about 5 minutes or until tender. Use a slotted spoon to remove the potato slices from the water and set onto a cloth-lined tray to dry and cool.
Unroll one of the pastry sheets on a floured surface and roll out to make a square shape, transfer to a lined baking sheet and cut out a 28cm diameter circle (a dinner plate will help with this). Chill in the freezer for 5 minutes to firm up.
Season the potatoes and lay a quarter of them onto the pastry circle, leaving a 2.5cm border around the edge. Next add a thrid of the chicken and chorizo mixture, then a third of the cheese. Repeat these layers, gradually forming a dome shape and finishing with a layer of potatoes.
Brush beaten egg all around the border.
Next, roll out the second sheet of pastry and drape over the top. Smooth over the filling and press the edges together to seal, then trim off the excess pastry and crimp the border. Brush with the egg and chill again – you can cook the pie at this stage or you can leave it in the fridge until tomorrow.
Heat the oven to 200C/Fan 180C/Gas 6.
When the oven is heated, brush the pie again with the remaining egg and score gently down the sides with a sharp knife. Cut a small hole in the top to let out the steam.
Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180C/Fan 160C/Gas 4 and bake for a further 40 minutes or until golden brown and piping hot throughout (especially important if you’ve had it in the fridge for a long time). Rest for about 5 minutes before slicing.
(Original recipe by Tom Mitchell-Dawson in Sainsbury’s Magazine, September 2023.)
This is made with packets of mussels in garlic butter sauce which you can easily pick up in the supermarket on your way home – no need to make it in time for the fish shop and no fiddly prep. You might want a bit of crusty bread to mop up the sauce.
Wine Suggestion: We couldn’t go past a good Muscadet and with ever greater choices out there we’d recommend you explore beyond some of the classic cuvées being offered. Jérémie Huchet’s Clos les Montys is an unique terroir with some very old vines. Not within the Sévre et Maine appelation this could easily be overlooked, but you get something special in the glass: aromas of lemon, jasmine, and pears with hints of a fresh herb. Juicy, well-balanced and elegant, it finishes very long and refreshing.
Tagliatelle with mussels & crème fraîche – serves 4(easily halved)
300g dried tagliatelle
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
150ml dry white wine
200ml crème fraîche
2 x 450g packs mussels in garlic sauce (we used Carr & Sons from Dunnes)
a good handful of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
Heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan, then add the onion and cook gently for about 10 minutes until softened and starting to colour. Pour in the wine, turn up the heat and bubble until it has almost evaporated.
Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salty water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the timings on the pack.
Add the crème fraîche to the onions and bring to the boil, then tip in the mussels and cook for about 5 minutes until piping hot and open (chuck any that don’t open away). Drain the pasta and return to the pan and tip in the mussel mixture. Stir in the herbs and serve with some crusty bread if you like.
Jono & Jules do food & wine 