A tasty side dish to get us out our potato rut of baby roast or dauphinoise. These went spectacularly well with roast chicken.
Patatas a lo pobre – serves 4
600g waxy potatoes e.g. Charlottes
1 bulb of fennel, cut into quarters lengthways and shred into 5mm slices
75ml olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 tbsp capers, rinsed
a few sprigs of fresh oregano
Slice the potatoes into 5mm rounds.
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan and add the potatoes and fennel. Cook over a medium heat until the potatoes are tender and starting to brown about 10-15 minutes. Keep tossing gently so it all cooks evenly.
When the potatoes are almost ready, add the garlic and sherry vinegar. Keep cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes or until the liquid has been absorbed and the potatoes are completely soft. Stir in the capers and oregano leaves and season with salt and pepper.
(Original recipe from The Hairy Bikerrs Mediterranean Adventure, Si King & Dave Myers, Seven Dials, 2017.)
Wine Suggestion: Italian reds work with tomato pasta sauces as they tend to be a little bit more acidic which compliments the acidity of the tomatoes. Given how light the spinach and ricotta are a light chianti or a young nebbiolo will work well.
Spinach & Ricotta Cannelloni – serves 5 to 6
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE:
4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
2 bay leaves
½ tsp dried thyme
½ tsp dried oregano
6 tbsp tomato purée
170ml white wine
2 x 400g tins crushed tomatoes
1 litre vegetable stock
1½ tsp caster sugar
1 tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp black pepper
10g basil leaves, roughtly torn, plus extra to serve
250g cannelloni tubes
50g finely grated Parmesan
125g grated mozzarella
FOR THE FILLING:
250g frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
500g ricotta
30g finely grated Parmesan
100g grated mozzarella
1 egg
1 large clove of garlic
a little grated nutmeg
¾ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp black pepper
First make the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, thyme and oregano. Cook for 3-4 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Add the tomato purée and stir for a minute. Stir in the wine, then turn the heat up hight and simmer until almost evaporated. Add the tomatoes, stock, sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 35 minutes.
Remove the bay leaves and whizz the sauce until smoooth, then stir in the basil leaves.
Squeeze the defrosted spinach with your hands to get rid of as much water as possible. Put the spinach in a bowl with the rest of the filling ingredients and mix well with wooden spoon.
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan.
Spread about 375ml of the sauce across the base of a large baking dish (about 23 x 32 cm).
Put the filling into a piping bag (or you can use a sandwich bag with the corner snipped off). Pipe the filling into the tubes until full, then place them in the baking dish.
Pour over the rest of the tomato sauce, making sure to cover all the tubes. Cover with foil, then bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil, then sprinkle with the Parmesan, then the mozzarella. Bake for another 15 minutes or until the cheese has melted.
Garnish with extra basil leaves and Parmesan and serve with a green salad.
(Original recipe from Recipetin Eats by Nagi Maehashi, Pan Macmilan, 2022)
We made these noodles on the day we got our new puppy, Remy. We can barely remember what they tasted like as we were too busy congratulating ourselves on picking the best little dog ever. However we wrote, usefully, on the recipe that they tasted very good indeed … so we’ll go with that.
Wine Suggestion: The coconut and turmeric elements to this dish work really well with an off-dry Riesling, like those from the Mosel in Germany. The Dr Loosen “L” Riesling is an inexpensive, but very well made option with charming fruit and a very good balance, finishing clean and fresh.
Spicy Coconut and Chicken Noodles – serves 4
vegetable oil
2 onions, roughly chopped
600g boneless and skinless chicken thighs
4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp rose harissa
400ml tin coconut milk
300g medium egg noodles
TO SERVE:
a handful of bean sprouts
lime wedges
coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Put a large saucepan over a medium-high heat, drizzle in some vegetable oil and fry the onions until soft. Add the chicken and dry spices along with lots of salt and pepper and stir to coat the chicken in the mixture, then stir-fry for a few minutes. Add the harrisa and stir-fry for a few more minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium, then pour in the coconut milk and some water so that the chicken is just covered. Stir, then cover the pan with a lid and cook gently for an hour, stirring now and then to make sure it hasn’t stuck. You can top up the liquid a little if needed.
Cook the noodles according to the pack instructions, then drain and divide between 4 bowls.
Pour the chicken over the cooked noodles, then add the bean sprouts, lime wedges and coriander.
(Original recipe from Flavour by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster*, 2023.)
Jeez this sauce is good. A stunning recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage. There are a good few steps in the recipe, but prep everything first and you will be fine.
Wine Suggestion: Don’t push the boat out for a wine match as the gutsy flavours just need an easy, well made, rounded Chardonnay. Go anymore complex and the subtlety will be lost. For us tonight Domaine Gayda’s Sphere Chardonnay which see’s wonderful sunshine in the Languedoc, but maintains it’s freshness as the vineyards are on the foothills of the Pyrenees and juducious and light use of oak barrels to bring it together.
Duck with pepper sauce and green salsa – serves 2
2 skin-on duck breasts
1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
FOR THE MARINADE:
2 tbsp soy sauce
1¼ tbsp Worcestershire sauce
½ tbsp maple syrup
⅛ tsp fine salt
FOR THE SALSA:
2 scallions, very finely chopped
5g chives, very finely chopped
5g fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
½ jalapeño, very finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp lime juice
⅛ tsp fine salt
FOR THE SAUCE:
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1½ tbsp olive oil
1 banana shallot, very finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, very finely chopped
⅛ tsp fine salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp green peppercorns, roughly crushed (the pickled green peppercorns are best for this)
½ tsp chipotle chilli flakes
1¼ tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp water
130g cream
Get a dish that will fit both duck breasts in a single layer. Mix the marinade ingredients together, then arrange the duck in the marinade, skin side up – try your best not to get any marinade on the skin. Marinate for a minimum of 2 hours at room temperature, or ideally, overnight in the fridge. Don’t cover the container either way, as you want the skin to dry out. Bring to room temperature for 2 hours before cooking.
Prep the salsa by mixing all the ingredients together, then set aside.
Take the duck out of the marinade and transfer to a tray lined with a clean cloth, flesh side down, so the flesh dries out. Blot the skin with kitchen paper to make sure it’s as dry as possible. Rub some salt and pepper into the skin. Reserve the marinade.
Put the duck breasts into a cold, non-stick frying pan, skin-side down and spaced apart. Put the pan over a low heat and gently fry, pressing down on the duck, for about 10 minutes or until the skin is crisp and deep brown (keep going longer to achieve this if you need). Spoon away the duck fat that renders in the pan (keep for roasties another day). Transfer the duck breasts to a plate, skin side up, then increase the pan heat to high.
When the pan is very hot, return the breasts to the pan, flesh side down. Move breasts around for about 3 minutes to get them coloured evenly. Transfer the duck to a plate and rest, uncovered, for a full 12 minutes.
Either wash out the pan and allow it to cool or start with another non-stick frying pan. Add the butter, oil, shallots, garlic and salt to the cold frying-pan. Put over a medium-low heat and fry gently for 6-7 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the black pepper, pepercorns, chipotle chilli flakes, and cumin and cook for another minute.
Pour the reserved marinade and the 2 tbsp water into the pan, turn the heat to hight and allow to bubble for 1½ minutes. Turn the heat down low and stir in the cream and cook for 1 minute to warm through.
Pour the sauce onto a plattter, then slice the duck and arrange it on top. Finish with the green salsa and serve with the lime wedges.
(Original recipe from Mexcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)
This has a surprising umaminess given the short cooking time. A dish for mushroom lovers.
Wine Suggestion: We enjoy pairing mushroom dishes with Nebbiolo and really enjoy stepping outside the box to find versions made outside it’s native Piedmont. Tonight a glass of Clendenen Family Vineyards (Au Bon Climat) “Pip” from the Santa Maria Valley in California, which despite it getting some of the famous sunshine, is also a very cool area with fog … just like Piedmont. We liked it a lot.
Porcini sauce for tagliatelle – serves 2
40g dried porcini
4 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped
½ tsp chilli flakes
10g fresh parsley (stalks and leaves), finely chopped, plus extra to serve
a big pinch of fine sea salt
1½ tbsp tomato purée
about 50 twists of freshly ground black pepper
250g dried tagliatelle
40g Parmesan, very finely grated, plus extra to serve
3 tbsp double cream
Put the dried porcini into a bowl and cover with boiling water, then leave to soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 75g of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the porcini so it is like the consistency of mince, then set aside.
Put the oil, garlic, chilli flakes, parsley and fine salt into a large sauté pan, then place over a medium-low heat. Fry very gently for 5 minutes or until soft, taking care that the garlic doesn’t turn brown.
Increase the heat, then add the chopped porcini, tomato purée and the pepper. Stir-fry for a few minutes, then set the pan aside while you cook the tagliatelle.
Cook the pasta in boiling salty water until al dente, then drain and reserve 350g of the pasta water.
Return the sauté pan to a medium-high heat, then add the reserved porcini and pasta water. Bring to a simmer and leave to bubble for a few minutes. Add half the Parmesan, stir until melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat, then stir in the cream, followed by the cooked pasta. Toss over the heat for a minute or two until the sauce comes together.
Remove from the heat and serve with more Parmesan and olive oil.
(Original recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)
Rajma or spiced kidney beans from Dishoom. Delicious with rice and raita.
Wine Suggestion: We found the rich, mealy textured beans paired well with Luigi Pira’s Langhe Nebbiolo. The fruity, spice and lighter nature wasn’t too serious for this dish, and the oomph from the tannins was a good counterpoint to the richness and depth in the beans.
Rajma – serves 2 to 4
35ml vegetable oil
5g ginger paste (see recipe below)
5g garlic paste (see recipe below)
1 black cardamom pod
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
15g tomato purée
1g fine salt
100g onion-tomato masala (see recipe below)
400g tin kidney beans
½ tsp garam masala
50g tomatoes, chopped
a good handful of coriander leaves, chopped
25g butter
TO SERVE:
red onion, finely sliced
ginger matchsticks
coriander leaves, roughly torn
lime wedges
Warm the oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and cook for a few minutes, stirring, until no longer raw.
Add the cardmamom pod, bay leaf and cinnamon stick and cook for 1 minute. Add the ground cumin, chilli powder, tomato purée and salt and cook for a few minutes, or until the oil starts to separate.
Add the onion-tomato masala and bring to a simmer, stirring, then add the kidney beans along with their liquid. Simmer for 15 minutes or until reduced and thickened.
Add the garam masala, tomatoes, chopped coriander and ginger and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the butter.
Serve garnished with the red onion, ginger and coriander and with lime wedges for squeezing over.
Onion-tomato masala – makes about 450g
300ml vegetable oil
1.2kg Spanish white onions, finely diced
35g garlic paste (see recipe below)
30g ginger paste (see recipe below)
1¾ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder
30g tomato purée
2 tsp fine sea salt
600g good quality tinned tomatoes
Warm a deep, heaving frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and warm before adding the onions. Let the onions caramelise to a deep brown, stirring regularly. Add a splash of water if they are at risk of burning. This should take 25-30 minutes.
Add the garlic and ginger paste and sauté until light golden brown, stirring all the time.
Add the chilli powder, tomato purée and salt, then sauté for 2 minutes.
Add the chopped tomatoes, stir well and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring often. The tomatoes should break down completely and caramelise a bit in the oil, you can add a splash of water if it starts to dry up.
Freeze any masala that you are not using.
Ginger and Garlic Pastes – makes about 170g (keep in the fridge covered with oil for 10 days)
3 bulbs of garlic or 180g fresh root ginger
25ml vegetable oil, plus extra to store
Peel the garlic or ginger and roughly chop.
Whizz the garlic or ginger with with the oil to make a smooth paste.
Store in a sterilized jar covered with oil in the fridge.
(Original recipes from Dishoom by Shamil Thakrar, Kavi Thakrar & Naved Nasir, Bloomsbury, 2019.)
We love dhal and this cheat’s version is delicious! It’s similar to a dhal makhani but a fraction of the effort to make. We will never be without 2 tins of lentils again! Serve with rice or naan of course.
Wine Suggestion: a regular grenache, Domaine Ventenac’s “les Dissidents” Paria because it has an effortless freshness and gentle plummy, warm spices of a juicy core of red fruit.
Cheat’s Dhal – serves 4 to 6
2-3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp tomato purée
2 x 400g tins green lentils, drained
50g butter
150ml double cream
300ml boiling water
Heat a large heavy saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the vegetable oil and the onion and stir-fry until softened and starting to brown at the edges.
Stir in the spices until the onions are coated, then add the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the lentils, then the butter and stir until melted. Pour in the cream and season generously, then pour in the water and stir again.
Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and creamy. Season to taste and serve.
(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster, 2022.)
We love this easy pasta dish. If you haven’t cooked smoked salmon before you should.
Wine Suggestion: this is a deceptively rich dish and we think needs something like a fuller Pinot Gris, like Au Bon Climat’s blend with Pinot Blanc which is treated very much like a Burgundian Chardonnay and is both textured and vibrantly fresh with flavours of fresh pears, toasty creaminess and gentle spices.
Pasta with smoked salmon & mascarpone – serves 4
400g farfalle
200g smoked salmon
125g mascarpone
20g butter, at room temperature
zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
dill, snipped
Cook the pasta in lots of salty water until al dente.
Meanwhile, cut the salmon into short pieces with scissors and put them into a large warm serving bowl along with the mascarpone, butter and lemon zest. Ladle some pasta cooking water into the bowl to loosen to a cream, then taste and add salt if needed.
Drain the pasta, reserving some more pasta water, then tip on to the sauce and gently mix together, adding more cooking water if needed. Serve, sprinkled with dill.
(Original recipe from An A-Z of Pasta by Rachel Roddy, Penguin: Fig Tree, 2021.)
This would be nice on the big day or any other day.
Cabbage with bacon & chestnuts – serves 6
700g winter cabbage
2 tbsp olive oil
200g streaky bacon, finely chopped
200g vacuum-packed chestnuts, roughly chopped
butter
Remove the stalks from the cabbage and roughly chop.
Bring a large pan of salty water to the boil and cook the cabbage for 3-4 minutes or until tender, then drain and leave to dry in the pan.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the bacon over a medium heat until starting to get crispy. Add the chestnuts to the bacon and stir so they absorb the bacon fat. Add the cooked cabbage, a knob of butter and seasoning. Toss together and serve.
This dish takes a while but it’s a waiting game for the most part and you will be richly rewarded. A good value dish for lamb lovers!
Wine Suggestion: a succulent red with gentle spices and if you can push the boat out something like Ridge’s superlative Lytton Springs. All blackberry, raspberry, coffee and warm spices, but with fine, layered tannins and a chalky undercurrent.
Lamb pilaf with orzo – serves 4
800-900g lamb neck fillet
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground allspice
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp tomato purée
300ml dry white wine
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp sugar
1 chicken stock cube
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
250g orzo
TO SERVE:
85g feta
1 tbsp chopped thyme
1 tbsp chopped mint
finely grated rind of 1 lemon
Heat the oven to 160C/Fan 140C/Gas 3.
Cut the lamb neck fillets in half lengthways and don’t trim off any fat. Cut each half fillet crossways into bite-size pieces.
Heat a good glug of olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan until hot, then sear the lamb in batches over a medium-high heat until well browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon to a large casserole.
Turn the heat down and add the chopped onion. Fry for a few minutes until golden brown, then add the garlic, cinnamon and allspice and fry for another minute or two. Scrape the onion mixture into the casserole with the meat.
Pour the tin of tomatoes over the meat, then fill the can twice with water and add this too. Give it all a stir, then add the tomato purée, wine, lemon juice, and sugar. Crumble in the stock cube and add the thyme, ½ tsp salt and plenty of black pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2 hours, stirring halfway through.
Stir in the orzo then cover and return to the oven for 20 minutes or until the orzo is cooked, stirring halfway through. Crumble the feta over and sprinkle with the herbs and lemon zest to serve.
A green salad is all you need on the side.
(Original recipe from Mary Berry Cooks the Perfect, Penguin Random House Group, 2014.)
You can’t capture the autumn sliding into winter better than in this dish. It’s perfect for a weeknight main or a side dish at the weekend.
Wine Suggestion: We think Nebbiolo is such a natural pairing with mushrooms, but thought opening a Barolo or Barbaresco was a bit extravagant, so Luigi Pira’s Langhe Nebbiolo was chosen and the gentle leather, spice and tea leaf characters were a delight.
Roast potatoes with mushrooms, chestnuts & sherry – serves 4
1kg waxy potatoes
7 cloves of garlic, 4 unpeeled and smashed, 3 peeled and finely sliced
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
500g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
3 tbsp dry or medium sherry
75g cooked chestnuts, roughly chopped
a small bunch of flatleaf parsley, finely chopped
100g manchego or Parmesan cheese
Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.
Line a baking tray with baking paper.
Spread the potatoes over the lined tray alongwith the smashed garlic, olive oil and thyme. Season and toss, then roast for 15-20 minutes or until the potatoes are softened but not cooked through.
Add the mushrooms, sliced garlic and sherry to the potatoes and toss again. Cook for another 20-25 minutes or until the mushrooms and potatoes are cooked. Remove from the oven and add the chestnuts and parsley. Mix well and check the seasoning.
Shave the cheese over the top to serve.
(Original recipe by Claire Thompson in Olive Magazine, October 2020.)
It’s getting colder but we’re determined to keep barbecueing anyway. These burgers are worth making for the onions alone, and the burger is something else too!
Wine Suggestion: a lighter, fruit forward red with a bit of tannin structure. We love some of the still wines from the Douro in Portugal and Quinta de la Rosa’s DouRosa red is a gem. Just 12.5%abv but full of flavour and with lovely depth, length and fine tannins.
Put the pork, chorizo, garlic, parsley, and paprika into a large bowl. Season with a salt (not too much) and plenty of black pepper then pound with your hands until well combined. Shape into 4 balls, then press these down to make burgers about 1 cm thick. Put the burgers into the fridge until you’re ready to cook them.
Next, make the onions. Put a large deep saucepan over a low heat and add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted, tip in the onions and a little salt and pepper. Cook very gently for at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the sherry and allow to reduce for another 15 minutes or so.
Light your barbecue and if you have one put a fireproof hot plate or frying pan on to warm up (if you cook the burgers on a hot plate you won’t lose any bits through the grill). When it is really hot, add the burgers and press down with a fish slice. Cook for a couple of minutes, then turn and grill the other side for a minute before turning again. Top with the manchego slices and a good spoon of onions, then shut the lid and cook for another couple of minutes.
Lightly toast the burger buns, and add a handful of rocket to each. Add a burger and serve.
(Original recipe from Seared by Genevieve Taylor, Quadrille, 2022.)
All they want to eat is chicken nuggets – at least you know what’s in this version and they’re baked in the oven. Little wins!
Chicken dippers – serves 3 to 4
rapeseed oil spray
90g panko breadcrumbs
500g chicken breasts, cut into 1½ cm strips
¼ tsp fine sea salt
FOR THE BATTER:
1 egg
1 tbsp mayonnaise
1½ tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp plain flour
½ tsp fine sea salt
¼ tsp pepper
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan.
Spread the panko breadcrumbs onto a baking tray, spray with oil and bake for 7 minutes or until golden, then transfer to a bowl.
Get a grill pan and spray the metal rack with oil.
Put the batter ingredients in a bowl and whisk with a fork to combine. Add the chicken and toss to coat in the batter.
Pick the chicken pieces up with tongs and put into the breadcrumb bowl. Sprinkle the surface with the breadcrumbs and press with your fingers to make sure they stick. Transfer the breadcrumbed chicken to the metal rack and repeat until the chicken is all coated.
Spray the chicken pieces generously with oil, and sprinkle with salt. Bake for 15-20 minutes until cooked through.
Serve with ketchup or mayonnaise.
(Original recipe from Recipetineats Dinner by Nagi Maehashi, Pan Macmillan, 2022.)
You need to marinade the salmon for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours ahead. After that, it’s dinner in 15 minutes. We served with with some sticky rice and dressed Asian greens.
Wine Suggestion: This works with a good Pinot Gris, like Neudorf’s Tiritiri. An underestimated grape, given the oceans of bland Pinot Grigio sold, but in the right hands … the riper, richer and more textural French styled Pinot Gris is a joy. Neudorf’s version is all about mouth feel: depth, viscosity, and richness while staying deliciously clean and deceptively moreish. And the back-bone is a fresh, salty-stoney texture keeping it all clean and vibrant.
Sticky glazed salmon – serves 2-3
2-3 salmon fillets
rapeseed oil spray
FOR THE MARINADE:
1 tsp finely grated ginger
1 garlic clove, finely grated
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp oyster sauce
2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
TO SERVE
sesame seeds
1 scallion, finely sliced
Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a shallow dish, then add the salmon and turn to coat.
When you are ready to cook, heat the grill to high. Line a grill tray with tin foil and place the salmon fillets on top, skin-side down. Brush with the marinade but don’t pour if over as any on the tin foil will burn, discard any extra.
Put the salmon under the grill, about 15-20 cm away from the heat. Cook for 7 minutes, then remove and spray with the rapeseed oil. Put back under the grill for another 1-3 minutes or until nicely caramelised.
Allow the salmon to rest for 5 minutes before serving with the scallions and sesame seeds scattered over.
(Original recipe from Recipetin Eats Dinner by Nagi Maehashi, Pan MacMillan, 2022.)
An easy pasta dish from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour. Ready in 10 minutes and perfect for midweek.
Wine Suggestion: A crisp and fresh Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico which lifts the dish and adds an extra roundness and depth. Easy white peach flavours but with that classic green almond twist at the end that bring both wine and food together.
Penne with spicy tomato & mascarpone sauce – serves 2
200g penne pasta
2 tbsp olive oil
4 big garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tbsp tomato purée
150g mascarpone cheese
1 tsp pul biber chilli flakes
2 handfuls of Greek basil – we used some regular basil
Cook the pasta in plenty of salty water according to the timings on the pack.
Meanwhile, warm a frying pan over a medium heat, and add the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook gently until soft and translucent.
Add the tomato purée, mascarpone and most of the chilli flakes, then stir until you have a smooth sauce.
When the pasta is cooked, scoop it out with a slotted spoon and straight into the frying pan with the sauce. Season well with plenty of salt and black pepper. You might need to add a bit more pasta water to loosen to a creamy sauce.
Serve in warm bowls with a sprinkle of pul biber and the basil leaves.
(Original recipe from Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster*, 2022.)
We’re having problems with our website at the moment which is why we haven’t been posting. We’ve a temporary fix in place and will hopefully get back to normal very soon. Not least because all the things we’ve been cooking will be out of season by the time we get around to posting them!
Make the base for this earlier in the day and bake when guests arive. We served with champ, buttered brussels sprouts and roasted carrots. You make quite a bit of roux and only use a bit, but its a very handy thing to have in the fridge at this time of year to thicken gravies and sauces.
Wine Suggestion: Pork and mushrooms often make us think of Nebbiolo, especially when there’s a rich sauce to cut through too. From a very traditional, but expressive winemaker Pira Luigi’s Serralunga Barolo is a classical expression of this famous region. They make some amazing Cru’s as well which always need time to evolve, but this cuvée we find is always more open in youth. Full-bodied and aromatic with tar and roses, the earthiness and truffle on the palate hold the balance between the full tannins and fresh acidity. It finishes long and regal as hoped.
Pork and mushroom pie – serves 4
FOR THE ROUX:
100g butter
100g plain flour
FOR THE PIE FILLING:
25g butter
2 onions, chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
700g shoulder or leg pork, cut into 2cm cubes
250ml chicken stock
1 tbsp olive oil
300g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
250ml cream
1 tbsp chopped parsley
FOR THE TOPPING:
300g puff pastry, rolled to 5mm
1 egg, beaten
Make the roux first by melting the butter over a medium heat, then add the flour. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, then pour into a small bowl. Keep in the fridge once cooled.
Preheat the oven to 160C, Gas 3.
Melt the butter for the pie filling in a medium casserole. Add the onions and season, then cover and sweat on a low heat for 5 minutes. Turn up the heat, then add the spices and the pork. Toss for a few minutes to colour the pork, then add the stock. Cover and cook in the oven for 45 to 50 minutes or until tender.
While the pork is cooking, heat the oil in a large frying pan, then add the mushrooms and fry until lightly coloured. Add the mushrooms to the pork after 30 minutes.
When the pork is cooked, remove the pork and mushrooms from the dish with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the cream to the pot and boil with the lid off for a few minutes. Slowly whisk in about 2 tbsp of the roux to thicken the sauce, adding in small pieces while the mixture is boiling. Add the chopped parsley, then return the pork and mushrooms to the pan. Season and transfer to a large pie dish.
Heat the oven to 230C, Gas 8.
Cover the dish with the pastry and make a hole in the centre to let out steam. You can decorate the top if you like with the excess pastry. Have fun doing this if you like we did.
Brush with the beaten egg, then cook in the oven for 10 minutes. Turn the heat town to 190C/Gas 5 and cook for a further 20 minutes or until golden brown.
Serve immediately with lots of veg.
(Original recipe from Rachel’s Food for Living by Rachel Allen, Collins, 2007.)
It’s the classic roast chicken but this time with fresh and preserved lemon. Yummy!
Wine Suggestion: We have a bit of a thing for dry Loire Chenin Blanc and were fortunate to visit Jacky Blot from Domaine de la Taille aux Loups earlier this year. Although he passed away not long after our visit, being able to taste the results of his work in a glass really keeps his memory alive. We opened a bottle of his Vin de France “Clos de la Bretonniere” with this dinner and were transported back to the tasting room and the couple of hours we spent with Jacky. A vibrantly dry Vouvray with tension and tautness in abundance and layers of minerally fruit, it paired beautifully with the roast chicken. Salut Jacky!
Roast chicken with preserved lemon – serves 4
70g butter, softened
3 tbsp thyme leaves
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 small preserved lemon, pips discarded and flesh and skin roughly chopped
1 lemon, zest finely grated, plus 1½ tbsp of juice
1 whole chicken
Heat the oven to 190C fan.
Put the butter, thyme, garlic, preserved lemon, lemon zest, ¼ tsp of salt and plenty of black pepper in a food proessor and blitz to combine.
Loosen the chicken skin over the breasts (careful not to tear it) and spread most of the butter mixture underneath. Spread the rest over the legs.
Put the chicken into a roasting tin and drizzle with the lemon juice and sprinkle over ½ tsp of salt and plenty of black pepper.
Roast the chicken for 20 minutes per 500g plus an extra 10 minutes, until the skin is golden brown and the juices run clear. Baste every 20 minutes as it cooks.
Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi, Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth, Ebury Press, 2018.)
This is very much a weeknight dish but it’s suprisingly good. Baking in a bag means very few dishes to wash which always helps. Serve with a green salad.
Wine Suggestion: try to find a good Vermentino with a medium body, not the richer ones with higher alcohol like you sometimes find from Sardinia and similar. A favoured one at the moment is Domaine Ventenac’s “les Dissidents” Cassandre from Cabardes in southern France.
Baked salmon with harissa and chickpeas – serves 2
1 unwaxed lemon
1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp clear honey
3 tsp harissa paste
150g roasted red peppers from a jar, sliced
15g coriander, roughly chopped
2 salmon fillets, skinned
1 tsp olive oil
Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5.
Tear off 2 large sheets of baking paper.
Halve the lemon and cut one half into thin slices.
Toss the drained chickpeas with the smoked paprika, honey, 1 tsp of the harissa paste, the peppers, most of the coriander and seasoning, then divide this between the two sheets of paper.
Season the salmon and spread each piece with 1 tsp of harissa, then place on top of the chickpeas and drizzle with the olive oil. Place the lemon slices on top, then fold over the edges to seal the parcels.
Put the parcels onto a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes or until the salmon is cooked. Open the parcels and scatter over the rest of the coriander, then serve with some salad on the side.
(Original recipe by Tom Mitchell-Dawson in Sainsbury’s Magazine, September 2023.)
We are still a bit apprehensive when cooking fish and shy away from the simple methods that require last minute cooking. We shouldn’t do this as they tend to be the dishes that show the fish at its best. We managed to conquer this one anyhow.
Wine Suggestion: Served with Domaine Rochette Morgon Régnié Cuvée des Braves, a red fruited Beaujolais from this sensitive and thoughtful family making wine in a Cru that is often overlooked. I say… expand your horizons beyond Morgon and Fleurie! Rich, powerful, and aromatically exquisite.
Plaice with Creamy Mushroom Sauce – serves 4
8 skinless, single plaice fillets (or 4 double fillets which you need to half lengthways)
45g plain flour
2 tbsp olive oil
15g butter
FOR THE SAUCE:
20g butter
200g small chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, crushed
120ml dry white wine
170ml double cream
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
juice of ½ a lemon
2 tbsp chopped dill
Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Sprinkle the flour onto a plate and season well with salt and pepper. Coat both sides of the fish fillets in the flour.
Heat 1 tbsp of the oil with the butter in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add 4 of the fish fillets and fry for 1½ minutes-2 minutes or until golden. Gently turn and fry for another 1½-2 minutes on the other side. Careful not to let the butter brown. Transfer the fillets to a serving platter, cover with foil and keep warm while you cook the rest.
To make the sauce, melt the butter in the same frying pan. Add the mushrooms and fry over a medium-high heat for a few minutes, then add the garlic and fry for another minute or so. Pour in the wine, stir and bring to the boil. Simmer for a couple of minutes, then pour in the cream. Simmer, stirring, until the sauce thickens.
Stir in the lemon zest and juice, season with salt and pepper and add the dill. Spoon the sauce over and around the fish and serve with a few extra dill sprigs if you like.
(Original recipe from Mary Berry Cooks the Perfect, Penguin Random House Group, 2014.)
Jono & Jules do food & wine 