A few fresh apricots during their short season really enhance this lamb tagine. We served with giant couscous cooked with shallot, turmeric, parsley, lemon zest and pine nuts. You need to marinade the lamb overnight (or for at least 2 hours).
Wine Suggestion: we think tagines go well with Grenache based wines, either white or red, and so opened the Edetària via Edetana White which is old vine Garnacha Blanca from unique vineyards in Terra Alta. It combines both power and an undercurrent of fresh salty mineral texture. There’s always a plush, velvety nature to this grape that makes it feel sophisticated. We keep on saying we should put this wine into our cellar and find out what happens with a few years age … but it we haven’t yet had the patience to find out.
Lamb and Apricot Tagine – serves 4
olive oil
1 red onion, halved and sliced
600g lamb neck fillet, cut into chunks
1 tbsp tomato purée
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
10 soft dried apricots
300g butternut squash, cut into chunks (not too big)
a small jar of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 apricots, stoned and cut into wedges
coriander, to serve
FOR THE MARINADE:
a small bunch of coriander, finely chopped
1 tsp hot smoked paprika
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 lemon, juiced
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
a small knob of ginger, finely grated
Mix the ingredients for the marinade together in a large bowl. Season, then add the lemon and toss well to coat. Cover and chill overnight or for at least 2 hours.
Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.
Heat a splash of olive oil in a pan and cook the onion over a low-medium heat until very soft. Add the lamb and all of the marinade and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
Add the tomato purée, tomatoes and dried apricots, plus 350ml of water. Bring to a simmer then cover and cook for 1 an hour in the oven.
Add the chickpeas and cook for another hour, adding the apricots for the last 10 minutes. Serve with giant or regular couscous and sprinkle with the coriander.
(Original recipe by Janine Ratcliffe in Olive Magazine, June 2025.)
Here is something a bit different for the barbecue. It’s a meatloaf stuffed with cheese and tomato chutney and wrapped in a bacon lattice. Serve in slices with salads and sides.
Wine Suggestion: a lovely, juicy red is what we like with this. Roc des Anges “Segna de Cor” a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah fits this bill with good deal of panache. It’s a wine that reflects the unique soils of Roussillon, but with a layer of brambly, juicy fruits on top.
You need to get your barbecue prepared for indirect cooking so you can cook the meatloaf away from the direct heat of the fire.
Start by making the bacon lattice to wrap the meatloaf. Line up 8 slices of bacon vertically on a flat baking sheet. From left to right, fold every other slice in half upwards. Lay a slice horizontally across the centre of the vertical slices. Unfold the vertical slices back over the horizontal one then fold up the other set of vertical slices. Lay over another horizontal slice and unfold the foleded ones. Repeat until you have a neat lattice.
Place the beef mince over the bacon in an even layer. Sprinkle over the barbecue rub and season with salt and pepper. Scatter the cheese in a line down the centre, then spoon over the relish.
Roll the meatloaf up as tightly as you can into a neat, fat sausage. Place the meatloaf on the barbecue, seam side down, away from the fire. Cover with the lid and cook gently for 35 to 40 minutes, turning with tongs a few times so it browns all over. The meatloaf is cooked when a probe reads 65-70C.
Rest the meatloaf for a few minutes, then carve into thick slices.
(Original recipe from Foolproof BBQ by Genevieve Taylor, Hardie Grant: Quadrille, 2021.)
You get a much more generous helping of scallops when you cook them for yourself at home and they make a super fancy risotto.
Wine Suggestion: Keeping it Italian we went for the Murgo Etna Bianco, a blend of Carricante and Catarrato which had body, loads of salty, minerality and bags of freshness.
Scallop risotto with brown butter – serves 2
2 tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
200g risotto rice
175ml white wine
500ml hot fish stock
30g Parmesan, finely grated
75g butter
6 large or 12 small scallops (we had a few more than this)
a handful of chives, chopped
juice of half a lemon
a grating of nutmeg
Heat the oil in a deep frying pan and fry the shallot for 6 to 8 minutes or until softened. Add the garlic and fry for another minute, then stir in the rice. Toast for a few minutes and stir to coat the rice in the oil. Add the wine and let it bubble until almost all absorbed.
Add a ladle of the hot fish stock to the rice and stir until it has been absorbed. Keep going like this, adding a ladleful at a time until all the stock is used and the rice is creamy and tender. Season, then stir in the Parmesan and 25g of the butter. Remove from the heat and cover with a lid. It will rest while you cook the scallops.
Heat a frying pan over a high heat. Pat the scallops dry with kitchen pepper, then season and brush lightly with oil. Add the scallops to the hot frying pan and sear for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, depending on the size of your scallops. Remove the scallops to a plate and take the pan off the heat. Add the rest of the butter and stir until it is foaming and browned – it should smell nutty. Season with black pepper, the chives, lemon juice and nutmeg. Return the scallops to the pan and spoon the butter over them.
Give the rice a stir and divide between warm bowls. Place the scallops on top and pour over the brown butter.
(Original recipe by Anna Glover in Olive Magazine, July 2024.)
You freeze the stuffing here before rolling up with the the lamb and tying with string – genius! Pretty much a one pot-dish then and you can easily get your beans ready in advance and re-heat with the garlic to serve.
Wine Suggestion: The combination of lamb, nuts and mushrooms lends itself to a good old-vine northern Rhône Syrah like Domain Coursodon’s Olivaie, a St Joseph from one of the best vineyards in this appellation. We opened one 5 years old and it had come together nicely with a rich and velvety texture, hints of plum, raspberries and olives on the nose and a charming length and balance.
Lamb shoulder with potatoes and garlicky green beans – serves 4 with leftovers
1.5kg boneless lamb shoulder
1½ tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp extra virgin olive oil
FOR THE STUFFING:
1 tbsp unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
300g button mushrooms
100g baby spinach, roughly chopped
3 tbsp skinned hazelnuts
3 tbsp pistachios (plus some extra chopped to serve)
1½ tbsp finely chopped parsley
1½ tsp finely chopped rosemary
1 tbsp lemon zest
FOR THE POTATOES:
1kg baby potatoes, halved or quartered if large
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
FOR THE GRAVY:
2 tbsp flour
375ml beef stock
¼ tsp dark soy sauce
FOR THE GREEN BEANS:
500 green beans, trimmed
2 tsp fine sea salt
2 tbsp olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
You need to make the stuffing first and it can be done well in advance and needs to go in the freezer for at least 3 hours.
Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan, then roast the hazelnuts for 8 minutes. Leave them to cool, then roughly chop.
Put the mushrooms in a food processor and whizz until finely chopped.
Melt the butter in a frying pan over a high heat. Add the shallots, garlic and mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes or until any liquid produced by the mushrooms has gone. Add the spinach and stir until just wilted.
Transfer the mushroom mixture to a bowl and allow to cool for 20 minutes, then stir in the remaining stuffing ingredients and season with salt and pepper.
Pile the stuffing onto a piece of cling film, then shape into a long log (about the length of a 30cm ruler). Roll up tightly with the cling film then put into the freezer for at least 3 hours (this can be done a couple of days in advance).
Take your lamb shoulder and place fat-side down . Cover with cling film and use a rolling pin to pound it into a rectangle (roughly 40cm x 22cm) and try to make it as even thickness as possible.
Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper, then unwrap the frozen stuffing and roll it up tightly with the lamb, finishing with the seam down.
Secure the lamb with kitchen string every 2cm (ours looked pretty terrible at this point but don’t fear, it will look perfect when cut out at the end).
Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan.
Rub the lamb roll with the olive oil and sprinkle over some salt and pepper.
Toss the potatoe with salt, pepper, and olive oil in a large roasting pan, then place the stuffed lamb on top.
Roast for 30 minutes, then turn the heat down to 160C/140C fan and cook for 2½ hours, or until the meat can be pulled apart easily with a fork.
When the lamb is close to ready, cook the beans. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil with 1 tsp of salt. Add the beans and cook for 4 minutes, then drain and rinse under the cold tap and drain well.
Remove the lamb and potatoes and loosely cover with foil, while you make the gravy.
Discard all but 3 tbsp of the fat from the pan, you can add a bit of butter if there isn’t enough fat.
Put the roasting tin on the hob over a medium heat. When the fat is hot, stir in the flour for 1 minute.
Keep stirring while you slowly add the stock. Add the soy sauce and stir continuously until it thickens to a gravy-like consistency. Taste and season to taste.
Finish your green beans by heating the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the green beans and garlic and stir for 2 minutes until the garlic is cooked and the beans warmed through. Season with salt and pepper.
Remove the string from the lamb and cut into thick slices.
Serve the lamb on a platter with the gravy, potatoes and garlicky green beans.
A beautiful Spanish pasta dish made with fantastic Lambay crab. The crab is a bit pricy but it’s worth it for this luxurious dish. Our fishmonger fortunately sells both prepared brown and white crab meat and also shellfish stock which makes this a tad easier.
Wine Suggestion: The richness of this dish demands a fuller-richer white and while this means that Chardonnay was our original thought, we wanted to keep it Spanish given the origin of the dish. Initially we thought a good white Rioja, like the Urbina Blanco Crianza (currently 2016 and 9 years old) which would have been excellent. Instead we stepped sideways and opened the Dominio de Tares Cepas Viejas Godello, an old-vine gem that is fermented in cask and aged on it’s lees to give richness and depth over a lemon, grapefruit and apple fruit flavours, a creamy texture and refined fresh structure.
Crab Canelones – serves 6
45ml olive oil
45g plain flour
500ml fresh shellfish stock (or you could use chicken stock)
300ml double cream
a good grating of nutmeg
80g finely grated Manchego, plus extra for the top
FOR THE FILLING:
60ml olive oil
1 small shallot, finely chopped
2 red chillies, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely sliced
50g brown crab meat
500g ripe tomatoes, diced
150ml shellfish stock (or chicken stock)
500g white crab meat
15g tarragon, finely chopped
250g dried cannelloni tubes
Make the bechamel first. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute, then gradually add the stock, stirring continuously, until you have a smooth, thick sauce. Add the cream, nutmeg and cheese and season, then set aside.
Heat the olive oil for the filling in a separate saucepan over a very low heat. Add the shallot, chillies and garlic and cook over a very low heat for 15 minutes.
Increase the heat to medium high and add the brown crab meat and fry for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes and the stock. Season and cook for 15 minutes, then take off the heat and stir in the white crab meat and chopped tarragon.
Blanch the pasta tubes in boiling water for 3 minutes, then gently drain and cool under cold running water.
Fill each pasta tube with the crab mixture and fit them snugly into an ovenproof dish, then pour over the bechamel. Scatter over a little more grated cheese, then bake for about 30 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Serve with a green salad.
(Original recipe from The Spanish Home Kitchen by José Pizarro, Hardie Grant, 2022.)
A delicious prep-ahead dish that only improves if made in advance. Serve with salad and crusty bread.
Slow-cooked lamb with butterbeans – serves 4
2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 ½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
¼ tsp sea salt flakes
800g lamb neck, cut into bite-size cubes
4 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, quartered
2 bay leaves
1 lemon, finely shave the skin into strips, then cut into wedges to serve
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and lightly smashed
4 anchovies, finely chopped
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp rosemary leaves, finely chopped
250g cherry tomatoes
75ml white wine
500ml chicken stock
1 x 700g jar good quality butter beans, drained and rinsed
150g thick Greek-style yoghurt
10g parsley, roughly chopped
Mix the coriander seeds and 2 tsp of the cumin seeds together in a small bowl.
Mix the remaining ½ tsp of cumin seeds with the sea salt flakes and set aside.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a large shallow ovenproof casserole over a medium-high heat. Add the lamb in batches and cook until nicely browned. You can add another tbsp of oil if needed. Scoop out with a slotted spoon onto a plate and set aside.
Add 2 tbsp of the oil to the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions, bay leaves, lemon strips and garlic and cook for about 6 minutes, stirring now and then. Add the anchovies, the coriander-cumin mix, thyme, rosemary and half the tomatoes. Cook for a minute, then return the lamb to the pan. Cook for a minute, then add the wine. Let it bubble for 30 seconds, then add the stock and season well with salt and pepper. Increase the heat and bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to the oven for 1½ hours, until the lamb is very soft and the liquid well-reduced.
Add the butter beans and the rest of the tomatoes. Stir, cover again and return to the oven for another 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
Serve sprinkled with the salt and cumin seed mix and the chopped parsley.
Salad and crusty bread is all you need on the side.
(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Comfort by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller and Tara Wigley, Ebury Press, 2024.)
Such a colourful dish and equally delicious. Meera Sodha writes the best vegetarian recipes.
Wine Suggestion: There is definitely a wine match for this, but we had an Asahi beer instead and enjoyed it very much.
Tandoori cauliflower with coriander sauce and quick pickled onions – serves 4
FOR THE PICKLES:
½ red onion, very finely sliced
4 tbsp lemon juice
½ tsp salt
FOR THE CORIANDER SAUCE:
100g unsalted cashews
100g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
¾ tsp caster sugar
3 long green chillies, deseeded and chopped
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
FOR THE TANDOORI CAULIFLOWER:
450g Greek yoghurt
2 tbsp lemon juice
5 cloves of garlic, crushed
2cm piece of ginger, grated
¾ tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
2 tsp salt
1½ tsp garam masala
4 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 tsp English mustard
2 large cauliflower, trimmed
naan breads, to serve
To make the quick pickled onions, put the sliced onion into a small bowl, add the lemon juice and salt, then scrunch with your hands and set aside.
To make the sauce, put the cashew nuts into a small bowl and cover with 125ml of boiling water, then set aside for 5 minutes. Put the cashews and their soaking water into a blender. Add the coriander, sugar, chillies, ½ tsp of salt the oil and 2 tbsp of lemon juice, blend until smooth, then taste and season further if needed.
Line two large baking trays with baking paper and oil them lightly. Heat the oven to 220C Fan/240C.
Place the rest of the cauliflower ingredients (except the cauliflower) in a large bowl and whisk together. Slice the cauliflowers into 1½ cm thick steaks – and keep all the smaller pieces too.
Dip the cauliflower steaks into the marinade, then shake off any extra and place on one of the baking trays. Repeat with the rest of the steaks. Put all the smaller pieces of cauliflower into the marinade and mix to coat well, then lift these out onto the other baking tray. Bake the florets for about 20 minutes and the steaks for about 25 or until the cauliflower is tender and blackened here and there.
Spread some of the coriander sauce on each plate, then top with the cauliflower and sprinkle with the pickled onions. Eat with warm naan breads.
(Original recipe from Dinner by Meera Sodha, FIG TREE, 2024.)
Everyone loves trout in our house and especially with miso – a master combination.
Wine Suggestion: You need a white with a touch of acidity and umami-savouriness here to both balance and compliment the flavours. Something like the Höpler Grüner Veltliner from Burgenland in Austria would work a treat.
Sesame miso trout – serves 4
4 fresh trout fillets, skin on
4 tsp white miso paste
3 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
2 tbsp olive oil, plus a bit extra for the veg
a knob of butter
4 pak choi, sliced into big pieces
6 scallions, finely sliced
FOR THE GLAZE:
4 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
1 tsp white miso paste
2 tsp sesame oil
Heat the oven to 200C/180C Fan/Gas 6.
Line a baking sheet with non-stick paper.
Whisk the ingredients for the glaze together in a bowl alongwith 6 tbsp of water, then set aside.
Season the fish fillets and spread the miso paste on the flesh side. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top and press down so they stick to the paste.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the fish fillets, sesame seed side down, and fry for 2-3 minutes, or until golden brown. Carefully turn them over and fry for another 2 minutes on the skin side. Add the knob of butter and when it foams, use a small spoon to baste the trout with it.
Transfer the fish to the lined baking sheet, skin-side down, and cook in the oven for 7-8 minutes or until just cooked through.
Meanwhile, wipe the frying pan clean, add a little oil and put over a high heat. Add the pak choi, scallions and seasoning and stir until just wilted.
Spoon the veg onto a serving dish and put the fish on top. Add the glaze ingredients to the pan and gently warm until just bubbling, spoon over the trout and serve.
(Original recipe from Mary’s Foolproof Dinners, BBC Books, 2024.)
Back to school routine and quick fixes are required. This one is nice!
Wine Suggestion: An uncomplicated, but tasty dish requires similar from a wine. Tonight’s choice was Graziano Pra’s “Otto” Soave Classico with classic green apple and almond flavours. Fresh and lighlty floral with a gentle texture that helps it pair with food.
Pasta with broccoli, anchovy and cumin – serves 4
300g dried fusilli or other short pasta
90ml olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
6 anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped
zest and juice of ½ lemon
1 tsp ground cumin
370g jarred chickpeas, drained (but don’t rinse)
1 tsp aleppo chilli powder
200g tenderstem broccoli, cut into 2½ cm lengths
30g Parmesan, finely grated
Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add plenty of salt. Add the pasta and cook for 3 minutes less than the time indicated on the pack.
Meanwhile, pour the oil into a large sauté pan and put over a medium heat. Add the garlic and fry for a minute, then stir in the anchovies, lemon zest and cumin, and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the chickpeas, chilli and a good grind of black pepper, mix well and turn off the heat.
When the timer goes for the pasta, add the broccoli to the pasta pot and cook for the remaining 3 minutes. Reserve about 100ml of the pasta cooking water, then drain and add the pasta and broccoli to the chickpea pan. Scatter over two-thirds of the Parmesan, then return the pan to the heat and toss well for a minute, adding enough of the reserved pasta water to make a sauce that coats the pasta.
Spoon into warm bowls, add a squeeze of lemon juice, a pinch of aleppo chilli and the remaining Parmesan.
(Original recipe by Yotam Ottolenghi in The Guardian, 13 Apr 2024.)
We made these noodles on the day we got our new puppy, Remy. We can barely remember what they tasted like as we were too busy congratulating ourselves on picking the best little dog ever. However we wrote, usefully, on the recipe that they tasted very good indeed … so we’ll go with that.
Wine Suggestion: The coconut and turmeric elements to this dish work really well with an off-dry Riesling, like those from the Mosel in Germany. The Dr Loosen “L” Riesling is an inexpensive, but very well made option with charming fruit and a very good balance, finishing clean and fresh.
Spicy Coconut and Chicken Noodles – serves 4
vegetable oil
2 onions, roughly chopped
600g boneless and skinless chicken thighs
4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp rose harissa
400ml tin coconut milk
300g medium egg noodles
TO SERVE:
a handful of bean sprouts
lime wedges
coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Put a large saucepan over a medium-high heat, drizzle in some vegetable oil and fry the onions until soft. Add the chicken and dry spices along with lots of salt and pepper and stir to coat the chicken in the mixture, then stir-fry for a few minutes. Add the harrisa and stir-fry for a few more minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium, then pour in the coconut milk and some water so that the chicken is just covered. Stir, then cover the pan with a lid and cook gently for an hour, stirring now and then to make sure it hasn’t stuck. You can top up the liquid a little if needed.
Cook the noodles according to the pack instructions, then drain and divide between 4 bowls.
Pour the chicken over the cooked noodles, then add the bean sprouts, lime wedges and coriander.
(Original recipe from Flavour by Sabrina Ghayour, Aster*, 2023.)
Jeez this sauce is good. A stunning recipe from Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage. There are a good few steps in the recipe, but prep everything first and you will be fine.
Wine Suggestion: Don’t push the boat out for a wine match as the gutsy flavours just need an easy, well made, rounded Chardonnay. Go anymore complex and the subtlety will be lost. For us tonight Domaine Gayda’s Sphere Chardonnay which see’s wonderful sunshine in the Languedoc, but maintains it’s freshness as the vineyards are on the foothills of the Pyrenees and juducious and light use of oak barrels to bring it together.
Duck with pepper sauce and green salsa – serves 2
2 skin-on duck breasts
1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
FOR THE MARINADE:
2 tbsp soy sauce
1¼ tbsp Worcestershire sauce
½ tbsp maple syrup
⅛ tsp fine salt
FOR THE SALSA:
2 scallions, very finely chopped
5g chives, very finely chopped
5g fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
½ jalapeño, very finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp lime juice
⅛ tsp fine salt
FOR THE SAUCE:
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1½ tbsp olive oil
1 banana shallot, very finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, very finely chopped
⅛ tsp fine salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp green peppercorns, roughly crushed (the pickled green peppercorns are best for this)
½ tsp chipotle chilli flakes
1¼ tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp water
130g cream
Get a dish that will fit both duck breasts in a single layer. Mix the marinade ingredients together, then arrange the duck in the marinade, skin side up – try your best not to get any marinade on the skin. Marinate for a minimum of 2 hours at room temperature, or ideally, overnight in the fridge. Don’t cover the container either way, as you want the skin to dry out. Bring to room temperature for 2 hours before cooking.
Prep the salsa by mixing all the ingredients together, then set aside.
Take the duck out of the marinade and transfer to a tray lined with a clean cloth, flesh side down, so the flesh dries out. Blot the skin with kitchen paper to make sure it’s as dry as possible. Rub some salt and pepper into the skin. Reserve the marinade.
Put the duck breasts into a cold, non-stick frying pan, skin-side down and spaced apart. Put the pan over a low heat and gently fry, pressing down on the duck, for about 10 minutes or until the skin is crisp and deep brown (keep going longer to achieve this if you need). Spoon away the duck fat that renders in the pan (keep for roasties another day). Transfer the duck breasts to a plate, skin side up, then increase the pan heat to high.
When the pan is very hot, return the breasts to the pan, flesh side down. Move breasts around for about 3 minutes to get them coloured evenly. Transfer the duck to a plate and rest, uncovered, for a full 12 minutes.
Either wash out the pan and allow it to cool or start with another non-stick frying pan. Add the butter, oil, shallots, garlic and salt to the cold frying-pan. Put over a medium-low heat and fry gently for 6-7 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the black pepper, pepercorns, chipotle chilli flakes, and cumin and cook for another minute.
Pour the reserved marinade and the 2 tbsp water into the pan, turn the heat to hight and allow to bubble for 1½ minutes. Turn the heat down low and stir in the cream and cook for 1 minute to warm through.
Pour the sauce onto a plattter, then slice the duck and arrange it on top. Finish with the green salsa and serve with the lime wedges.
(Original recipe from Mexcla by Ixta Belfrage, Ebury Press, 2022.)
This dish was traditionally cooked in a glazed clay pot. However these have successfully been replaced by cast-iron casseroles, like our favourite oval shaped one from le Creuset. It keeps the heat stable which makes it perfect for the long and slow cooking required for this dish. Very like our Chianti Beef recipe but with a few French touches.
Wine Suggestion: with a nod to the French origins of this dish we’d suggest a good Gigondas from the Rhone to match. With rich brambly fruit, good spicy tannins and a touch of elegant leathery development the Grapillon d’Or Gigondas was immensely enjoyed last time we cooked this, but other GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre) blends from around the world would work well too.
Daube of Beef – serves 6
1.2kg shin of beef, cut into large pieces
4 tbsp plain flour, well seasoned
oil for frying
200g smoked bacon lardons
2 onions, diced
2 celery sticks, sliced thickly on a diagonal
4 carrots, sliced thickly on a diagonal
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
750ml red wine
2 tbsp tomato purée
2 cloves, ground
2 bay leaves
2 strips of orange peel
flat-leaf parsley, to serve
Heat the oven to 150ºC/Fan 130ºC/Gas 2.
Toss the beef in the seasoned flour (we shake them together in a large freezer bag).
Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a large non-stick frying pan and brown the beef in batches before transferring with a slotted spoon to a large casserole dish with a lid. Add the bacon to the frying pan and cook until brown and crispy, then scoop out and add to the casserole with the beef. Cook the onions until golden and caramelised then add these to the beef. Finally fry the carrot and celery until just starting to colour. Add the garlic and cook for a minute then add to the beef. Add a splash of wine to the frying pan to deglaze, stirring to scrape any crusty bits from the bottom of the pan, then tip into the casserole. Add the rest of the wine to the casserole and bring to a simmer. Stir in the tomato purée, cloves, bay leaves and orange peel.
Transfer the casserole to the oven and cook for 2½ hours or until the meat is very tender – leave the lid off for a while at the end if you want the sauce to thicken to bit. Scatter with the parsley to finish.
(Original recipe by Lulu Grimes in BBC Olive Magazine, September, 2012).
We made this when we visited Australia earlier this year from a great cookbook by Stephanie Alexander, her Kitchen Garden Companion. They go great with some new potatoes tossed with sour cream and dill for a main course.
Salmon Fishcakes with Dill – makes 8 or 24 little ones
300g salmon fillet, cut into bite-size pieces
2 tbsp double cream
30g breadcrumbs (roughly 1 thick slice of bread)
30g marinated goat’s cheese
1 egg yolk
4 tbsp chopped dill
½ tsp sea salt
2 tbsp plain flour
20g butter
2 tbsp olive oil
Pour the cream over the breadcrumbs and leave to soak for 5 minutes.
Pulse the salmon, cream-soaked crumbs and goat’s cheese in a food processor until combined, but not reduced to a paste. Scrape the mixture into a mixing bowl and mix in egg yolk and dill, then season with the salt and some pepper. Cover with cling film and chill for 30 minutes.
Wet your hands and divide the mixture into 8 large or 24 bite-sized fishcakes. Roll the fishcakes in the flour.
Heat butter and oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat and fry the fishcakes for 2-3 minutes per side or until golden brown. Be careful not to overcook as they are better if they stay a bit moist.
Wine Suggestion: Try to find a top-quality Australian Verdelho, with a few years of age on it. It should have mellowed and developed a honey character alongside the fresh acidity and white floral character.
(Original Recipe from Stephanie Alexander’s Kitchen Garden Companion, Lantern, 2009.)
Really rich, this dish packs a punch of flavour so it’s perfect for a small starter.
Penne con Sugo di Salsiccie – serves 6-8 as a starter
2 tbsp olive oil
8 Italian spiced, fresh pork sausages, meat removed from skins and crumbled
2 small red onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 small dried chillies, crumbled (or you could use chilli flakes)
2 bay leaves
1/3 bottle red wine (preferably something Italian, like a Chianti)
2 x 400g tins peeled plum tomatoes, drained
½ nutmeg, freshly grated
120g Parmesan, freshly grated
150ml double cream
250g penne rigate
Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the sausagemeat, stirring and breaking it up, until the juice from the meat has evaporated and the fat has started to run.
Add the onion, garlic, chilli and bay leaves and cook gently for about 30 minutes or until the onions are brown.
Pour in the wine, increase the heat and cook until it has evaporated.
Add the tomatoes, lower the heat, and simmer gently until you have a thick sauce, about 45-60 minutes. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper, then add the Parmesan and cream.
Cook the penne in lots of salted water, drain well, and add to the sauce.
Wine Suggestion: We drank a delightful Langhe Nebbiolo from the Produttori del Barbaresco which went well. We’d suggest finding a red wine with a bit of acidity to cut through the richness, good tannins to counteract the protein richness, and yet not too much weight. Nebbiolo or Sangiovese …
(Original recipe from The River Café Cookbook by Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray, Ebury Press, 1995.)
We love turnips (or swedes as the rest of the world calls them) and think that they deserve a bigger part of the limelight. This puts them centre stage and celebrates their earthiness and sweet character. This recipe comes from Denis Cotter, of Café Paradiso in Cork, and like many of his dishes it is pretty sweet for a savoury dish and has the potential to divide your dinner guests. Our guest is not usually a fan of turnip but she loved this dish.
Swede & Leek Gratin in Maple Cream with Sage & Walnut Crust – serves 4-6
1 large swede
2 leeks, halved lengthways and well washed
30g butter, plus extra for greasing
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
100ml dry white wine
250ml double cream
4 tbsp maple syrup
For the crust:
8 fresh sage leaves
1 tbsp chopped chives
50g white bread
50g walnuts
30g butter
Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/gas mark 2.
Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Peel and quarter the swede, then chop into slices about 5mm thick. Simmer in the water for 10 minutes, then remove and partly cool them in a bowl of cold water. Drain and set aside.
Chop the leeks into 2cm pieces. Melt the butter in a large pot, over a high heat, add the leeks and garlic and cook, stirring, for 8-10 minutes. Add the thyme and white wine, and boil for 1 minute, then pour in the cream and maple syrup. Bring back to the boil and then take off the heat. Season with salt and pepper.
Grease an oven dish with butter and arrange a layer of swede slices on the bottom. Spoon a third of the leeks on top and cover with another layer of swede. Repeat to get 3 layers of each, finishing with the leeks. Press firmly on the top and put the dish in the oven. Bake for 30 minutes.
To make the crust: put the sage, chives and bread in a food processor and pulse to a fine crumb. Add the walnuts and butter and pulse briefly to chop the walnuts coarsely.
Increase the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.
Scatter the sage and walnut topping over the gratin and return to the oven for 5 minutes.
Remove from the oven and leave to rest for about 5 minutes before serving.
Wine Suggestion: You’ll have some wine left in the bottle you used for this dish. A dry chenin would be good as it will carry the earthy and sweet characters of this dish but also has enough acidity and texture to cut through the richness.
(Original recipe form Denis Cotter’s For the Love of Food, Harper Collins, 2011.)
This is a fabulous recipe for left-over roast chicken and it’s even worth roasting a bird especially (though we cheated with a shop-bought rotisserie one). You can make a decent chicken stock by pouring water over the carcass and simmering it with a carrot, bay leaf and onion for half an hour.
Creamy Roast Chicken Risotto – to serve 2
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
50g butter
small bunch of thyme leaves
250g arborio rice
1 litre hot chicken stock
350g leftover roast chicken, torn into bite-size chunks
100g crème fraîche
a handful of chopped parsley
Parmesan, grated
Melt the butter in a heavy, shallow pan and cook the onion gently until soft but not coloured. Stir in the thyme leaves and the rice and stir until the rice is glistening. Add a little of the hot stock and bring slowly to the boil. Turn the heat down and gradually add the stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring. Stir in the roast chicken as you add the last ladleful of stock.
After about 20 minutes the rice should be tender but with a little bite to it. Stir in the crème fraîche and parsley, then some seasoning. Leave to rest for 5 minutes before serving with a little Parmesan grated over.
Wine Suggestion: A glass of Vintage Champagne if you’re feeling extravagant or a good Maconnais white, like Pouilly-Fuisse or possibly even something from Roussillon like a Limoux… the choices are endless but don’t go too dry you need a bit of fruitiness here to help with the richness of the dish and a bit of body too otherwise the wine will be overwhelmed.
(Original recipe from Nigel Slater’s Real Food, Fourth Estate, 1998.)
Jono & Jules do food & wine 