Linguine vongole – possibly the most perfect pasta dish. Lots of garlic and fresh salty clams – delicious!
Wine suggestion: working well with this dish is the under-rated grape from the south of Italy: Fiano. We’d highly recommend seeking it out as it has the beguiling fresh, almost crisp stonefruit character and some sort of citrus twist depending on where it comes from. While most is grown in Campagnia and the south of Italy it’s now being found successfully in Argentina and Australia, like Pikes “Luccio” from the Clare Valley … where the citrus twist is lime and delicious at that.
Linguine Vongole – serves 4
1kg fresh clams
400g linguine
4 tbsp olive oil
6 cloves of garlic, sliced very thinly
1 large red chilli, finely chopped
100ml white wine
30g unsalted butter
20g flatleaf parsley, finely chopped
1 large lemon
Put the clams in a sinkful of water with a decent handful of salt, then discard any that don’t close.
Bring a large pan of salty water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the timings on the pack.
Meanwhile, put the olive oil, garlic and chilli into another large pan, then turn on the heat and allow them to cook gently for a few minutes but without taking on any colour. When it smells really good, add the wine and cover the pan. Turn the heat up high and when the wine is steaming, add the clams. Clamp the lid back on and give the pan a shake, then leave for a few minutes.
Reserve a large mug of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and add it to the pot of cooked clams. Add a good splash of pasta water, the butter and parsley. Mix and toss well to make a sauce that coats the pasta. Squeeze in the juice from half the lemon and grate in some lemon zest. Mix again, then season if needed. Serve with a drizzle of your best olive oil.
(Original recipe from The Farm Table by Julius Roberts, Ebury Press, 2023.)
Mussels are a regular Friday night treat for us and this sauce with Thai spices and coconut milk is really delicious. As ever, you will need lots of crusty bread.
Wine Suggestion: We really like matching Thai curries with Riesling, especially if there’s a touch of residual sugar. Unusually for the Clare Valley (which is typically bone dry) Pikes Hills & Valleys Riesling has about 9 grams of residual sugar which makes this fruity, rather than sweet. We had a bottle a few years old which accentuated the lime and lifted aromas and made a wonderful match.
Thai spiced mussels – serves 2
1 tbsp coconut oil
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
20g ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground coriander
2 tbsp red Thai curry paste
1 tbsp tomato puree
400ml tin coconut milk
1 tsp brown sugar
1 kg mussels, cleaned and debearded (chuck any that don’t close after a sharp tap)
1 lime, juiced
a handful of Thai basil leaves
crusty bread, to serve
Heat the coconut oil in a large casserole or heavy saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onions and ginger and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add the turmeric and coriander and cook for another minute, then add the curry paste and tomato puree and cook for a minute more.
Add the coconut milk and brown sugar, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to simmer and cook for 5 minutes.
Add the cleaned mussels, then turn up the heat, cover with a lid and cook for 5 minutes or until all the mussels have opened (chuck any that don’t open).
Stir the mussels through the sauce, then add the lime juice and tear in the Thai basil leaves. Serve with lots of crusty bread.
(Original recipe by Georgina Hayden in The Guardian, 11 Feb 2025)
A week night fish dish that was a hit with everyone in our family, and that’s saying something. Peas are obligatory as the side.
Wine Suggestion: this works excellently with a zesty, citrus flavoured white like the Pico Maccario Gavi di Gavi from Piedmont in Italy.
Hake with Panko & Pesto – serves 4
1kg floury potatoes, cut into wedges
2 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra
4 pieces of hake (or another firm white fish), skin and bones removed
2 tbsp pesto
2 tbsp panko breadcrumbs
2 tbsp finely grated Parmesan
1 tbsp chopped pine nuts
1 tbsp capers, finely chopped
1 tbsp dill, chopped
3 tbsp mayonnaise
¼ lemon, zested and juiced
Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan.
Put the wedges onto a baking tray and drizzle over 1 tbsp of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, then toss to coat in the oil. Bake for 50-55 minutes, turning halfway, until crispy and golden.
Oil another baking sheet and add the fish pieces. Spread the pesto over the fish pieces and sprinkle over the panko breadcrumbs. Drizzle with a tbsp of olive oil, then sprinkle over the Parmesan and chopped pine nuts. Place in the oven for the final 10-12 minutes of cooking time. The top should be golden and the fish should flake easily.
Mix the capers, dill, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice with some black pepper in a small bowl. Serve the fish with the wedges, peas and dip.
Melt the butter in a pan and cook the onion and lardons for about 5 minutes over a low heat until the onions have started to soften. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute or two, then add the stock and bring to the boil.
Turn the heat down and add the peas. Cover with a lid and cook for 15-20 minutes. When ready the peas should be slightly soupy.
Season with the sugar, salt and lots of black pepper.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Secret France, BBC Books, 2019.)
Rösti Potato Gratin – serves 6
900g waxy potatoes
45g butter, melted, plus extra to grease the dish
150ml single cream
Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan.
Scrub the potatoes, then put them into a pan and cover with cold water and add some salt. Cover with a lid, bring to the boil, and cook until just tender – they should be just slightly firm in the centre. Set aside to cool completely.
Butter a 1 litre shallow ovenproof dish.
Peel the potatoes, then use a coarse grater to grate into the buttered dish, sesaon each layer with salt and black pepper. Don’t be tempted to press then down so they remain light and fluffy.
Pour over the melted butter and cream and bake for 20-25 minutes or until crispy and golden brown.
(Original recipe from Mary Berry Cooks Up a Feast with Lucy Young, DK: Penguin Radom House, 2019.)
This isn’t really a recipe but it might just save your dinner some evening.
Wine Suggestion: This really works with a zippy, fresh white like the Höpler Gruner Veltliner. Elegant and minerally with a real purity of pear and lemon flavours overlaid with a light white pepperiness and savoury umami finish
Pea, broccoli & pesto tortellini – serves 2
200g tenderstem broccoli, cut into short pieces
100g frozen peas
250g pack spinach & ricotta tortellini
1 lemon, zested and juiced
4 tbsp fresh pesto
Parmesan, to serve
best extra virgin olive oil, to serve
Bring a large pot of salty water to the boil, then add the broccoli and cook for 1 minutes. Add the frozen peas and cook for 2 more minutes, then scoop all the veg out with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Bring the water back to the boil and cook the pasta according to the pack instructions.
Drain the pasta well and return it to the pan. Add the lemon, cooked veg and pesto and gently toss to combine. Serve in warm bowls with Parmesan and a glug of olive oil if you like.
These are great with drinks and much lighter than actual sausage rolls. You can also freeze them uncooked and then cook from frozen for a handy standby.
Wine Suggestion: Bubbles of course … we’re particularly fond of the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Triple Zero, so named as it uses no chaptilisation, no liquer de tirage and no dosage. As unfettered and refined a Pet Nat you can find anywhere and very special for it.
Little salmon sausage rolls – makes 24
1 x 320g sheet all-butter puff pastry
1 egg beaten
FOR THE FILLING:
200g skinless salmon fillet, finely chopped
115g smoked salmon, finely chopped
125g full-fat cream cheese
25g Parmesan, finely grated
small bunch of dill, finely chopped
6 scallions, finely chopped
juice of ½ lemon
75g dill pickle from a jar, finely chopped
Heat the oven to 200C/180C Fan/Gas 6.
Preheat a large baking tray.
Put all the filling ingredients into a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well.
Roll the puff pastry sheet out on a lightly floured surface to make a rectangle 30 x 40 cm. Brush with the beaten egg, then divide vertically into 3 even-sized pieces.
Divide the filling into 3 and make a mound down each piece of pastry. Lift and fold the pastry over and seal by pressing down with the back of a fork.
Cut each section into 8 and brush the tops with the beaten egg.
Line the hot baking tray with non-stick baking paper and place the rolls on top. Bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden brown.
(Original recipe from Mary’s Foolproof Dinners by Mary Berry, BBC Books, 2024.)
A delicious prep-ahead dish that only improves if made in advance. Serve with salad and crusty bread.
Slow-cooked lamb with butterbeans – serves 4
2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 ½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
¼ tsp sea salt flakes
800g lamb neck, cut into bite-size cubes
4 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, quartered
2 bay leaves
1 lemon, finely shave the skin into strips, then cut into wedges to serve
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and lightly smashed
4 anchovies, finely chopped
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp rosemary leaves, finely chopped
250g cherry tomatoes
75ml white wine
500ml chicken stock
1 x 700g jar good quality butter beans, drained and rinsed
150g thick Greek-style yoghurt
10g parsley, roughly chopped
Mix the coriander seeds and 2 tsp of the cumin seeds together in a small bowl.
Mix the remaining ½ tsp of cumin seeds with the sea salt flakes and set aside.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a large shallow ovenproof casserole over a medium-high heat. Add the lamb in batches and cook until nicely browned. You can add another tbsp of oil if needed. Scoop out with a slotted spoon onto a plate and set aside.
Add 2 tbsp of the oil to the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions, bay leaves, lemon strips and garlic and cook for about 6 minutes, stirring now and then. Add the anchovies, the coriander-cumin mix, thyme, rosemary and half the tomatoes. Cook for a minute, then return the lamb to the pan. Cook for a minute, then add the wine. Let it bubble for 30 seconds, then add the stock and season well with salt and pepper. Increase the heat and bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to the oven for 1½ hours, until the lamb is very soft and the liquid well-reduced.
Add the butter beans and the rest of the tomatoes. Stir, cover again and return to the oven for another 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
Serve sprinkled with the salt and cumin seed mix and the chopped parsley.
Salad and crusty bread is all you need on the side.
(Original recipe from Ottolenghi Comfort by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller and Tara Wigley, Ebury Press, 2024.)
Inspired by a recent trip to Paris by Jules where she had to take shelter in a random place to get out of the rain and they served a delicious moules à la crème. A little bit more effort than Moules Marinière but very much worth it.
Wine Suggestion: Overlooked within Muscadet are certain vineyards and wines that stand out as having something extraordinary to them. Les Clos du Montys Muscadet by Jérémie Huchet is grown on a very special spot with unique soils that give this wine an extra fleshiness and body compared to other Muscadet which enables the wine to stand up to the extra level of richness of the Crème.
Moules à la crème – serves 2or 4 as a starter
1kg mussels (or more if you like), cleaned and debearded (chuck any that won’t close when you give them a sharp tap)
20g butter
3 shallots, thinly sliced
4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves and a few sprigs of thyme tied together to make a bouquet garni
300ml white wine
200ml crème fraîche
2 egg yolks
parsley, finely chopped
Warm the buttter in a large saucepan over a gentle heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook gently for 5 minutes. Add the white wine, bouquet garni and some black pepper. Turn the heat up and simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the mussels to the pan, stir and clamp on a tight fitting lid. Cook for 2 minutes, then stir, replace the lid and cook for another 2 minutes. The mussels are ready when they have all opened – chuck any that stay closed.
Remove the pan from the heat and scoop out the mussels with a slotted spoon into a bowl.
Return the pan to the heat and boil the stock for 5 minutes. Put a fine sieve over a clean bowl and strain the stock into the bowl. Rinse the saucepan, then pour in the strained stock. Heat to a gentle simmer.
Whisk the crème fraîche and egg yolks together in a bowl. Whisk in a couple of ladles of the stock and then pour into the simmer stock, stirring continuously.
Keep gently warming the sauce and stirring until the sauce thickens slightly, then return the mussels to the pan and warm through briefly. Add the parsley and serve in warm bowls with lots of crusty bread.
(Original recipe from Lickedspoon with Debora Robertson, Substack, 2 Feb 2025.)
Such a colourful dish and equally delicious. Meera Sodha writes the best vegetarian recipes.
Wine Suggestion: There is definitely a wine match for this, but we had an Asahi beer instead and enjoyed it very much.
Tandoori cauliflower with coriander sauce and quick pickled onions – serves 4
FOR THE PICKLES:
½ red onion, very finely sliced
4 tbsp lemon juice
½ tsp salt
FOR THE CORIANDER SAUCE:
100g unsalted cashews
100g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
¾ tsp caster sugar
3 long green chillies, deseeded and chopped
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
FOR THE TANDOORI CAULIFLOWER:
450g Greek yoghurt
2 tbsp lemon juice
5 cloves of garlic, crushed
2cm piece of ginger, grated
¾ tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
2 tsp salt
1½ tsp garam masala
4 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 tsp English mustard
2 large cauliflower, trimmed
naan breads, to serve
To make the quick pickled onions, put the sliced onion into a small bowl, add the lemon juice and salt, then scrunch with your hands and set aside.
To make the sauce, put the cashew nuts into a small bowl and cover with 125ml of boiling water, then set aside for 5 minutes. Put the cashews and their soaking water into a blender. Add the coriander, sugar, chillies, ½ tsp of salt the oil and 2 tbsp of lemon juice, blend until smooth, then taste and season further if needed.
Line two large baking trays with baking paper and oil them lightly. Heat the oven to 220C Fan/240C.
Place the rest of the cauliflower ingredients (except the cauliflower) in a large bowl and whisk together. Slice the cauliflowers into 1½ cm thick steaks – and keep all the smaller pieces too.
Dip the cauliflower steaks into the marinade, then shake off any extra and place on one of the baking trays. Repeat with the rest of the steaks. Put all the smaller pieces of cauliflower into the marinade and mix to coat well, then lift these out onto the other baking tray. Bake the florets for about 20 minutes and the steaks for about 25 or until the cauliflower is tender and blackened here and there.
Spread some of the coriander sauce on each plate, then top with the cauliflower and sprinkle with the pickled onions. Eat with warm naan breads.
(Original recipe from Dinner by Meera Sodha, FIG TREE, 2024.)
Peanut butter makes the best sauces, and here it makes a very simple dish taste delicious.
Wine Suggestion: Think of peanuts as legumes (which they technically are) and matching with wine gets a bit easier. With the gentle heat of the curry a touch of fruitiness doesn’t go astray either. Something like the Pinot Gris from Forrest Estate in Marlborough which combines a wonderful array of citrus and apple freshness, textured minerality plus a rich and exotic peach, pear and honeysuckle roundness.
Thai Pork & Peanut Curry – serves 4
1 tbsp vegetable oil
a bunch of scallions, sliced
a small bunch of coriander, stalks finely chopped and leaves picked
1 large pork fillet (tenderloin), sliced
4 tbsp Thai red curry paste
4 tbsp smooth peanut butter
1 tbsp soft brown sugar
1 tbsp soy sauce
400ml tin coconut milk
200g pack of baby corn
juice of 1 lime
steamed jasmine rice, to serve
Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan, then add the scallions and coriander stalks and cook for 1 minute. Add the pork slices and cook for 5 minutes until sealed and starting to brown.
Stir in the curry paste and peanut butter and mix well, then add the sugar, soy and coconut milk, plus ½ can of water. Mix well, then cover and leave to simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Remove the lid, add the baby corn and increase the heat. Bubble for a few minutes or until the corn is cooked and the sauce has thickened slightlly. Stir in the lime juice and check the seasoning. Serve with the coriander leaves and steamed jasmine rice.
This is a handy veggie recipe to have up your sleeve. It works perfectly with all the sides you would typically serve with a roast dinner and it would also be nice as a side dish. Even better you can have it all prepped in advance and you can freeze it.
Wine Suggestion: Perfect with an oaked white like Oliver Leflaive’s Bourgogne Blanc Les Setilles, which has real class despite it’s lowly level within the Burgundy classification system.
Stuffed cabbage – makes 2 and each serves 4 to 6
1 Savoy cabbage
160g butter
50ml extra virgin olive oil
3 onions, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
200g Cheddar cheese, finely grated
200g Parmesan, finely grated
180g breadcrumbs
4 eggs, lightly beaten
nutmeg
vegetable stock
Remove 8 of the outer leaves from the cabbage and simmer for 5-10 minutes until softened, then drain and set aside.
Melt the butter and oil together in a large pan over a medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic with 1tsp salt and cook for 20 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened.
Cut the cabbage into quarters and discard the tough core. Shred it very finely, then add to the pan and cook for another 10 minutes or so, until soft and wilted.
Turn the heat off, then mix both cheeses into the cabbage until melted. Add the breadcrumbs and eggs and stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg.
Divide the filling in half. Take 4 of the cooked cabbage leaves and lie them down in a rough circle so they are slightly overlapping. Spoon half the filling on top in a rough rectangle shape, then wrap the leaves around to enclose. Tie it in multiple places along it’s length to hold it together, then tie it again along the length. Repeat with the rest of the cabbage leaves and stuffing. You can now store these in the fridge until your’re ready to cook them or freeze for another day.
To cook, bring a large pot of vegetable stock to the boil. Carefully lower one stuffed cabbage into the stock and simmer gently for 30-40 minutes. Carefully lift out of the pan and leave to rest for 10 minutes before carving into slices.
(Original recipe from Stagioni by Olivia Cavalli, Pavilion, 2022.)
This makes a big batch and it freezes well. Serve with rice, tortilla chips, sour cream, avocado and lime wedges.
Wine Suggestion: We like the textures and juiciness of a good Côtes du Rhône, like Domaine Romain Roche’s Cairanne which is a blend of Grenache and Syrah plus a herbal, earthy touch of Carignan that works well with the earthy beans
Bean chilli – serves 6 to 8
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 onions, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 yellow peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped
2 roasted peppers from a jar, drained and roughly chopped
15g coriander, stalks finely chopped and leaves kept to serve
2 tbsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp dried oregano
1 tbsp light brown soft sugar
1-2 tbsp chipotle paste
400g tin of black beans
400g tin of kidney beans
400g tin of cannellini beans
400g tin chopped tomatoes
300ml vegetable stock
Heat the oil in a large casserole or a deep pan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook for 10-12 minutes. Add the garlic and peppers and cook for a further 5 minutes.
Stir in the coriander stalks, spices, oregano, sugar and chipotle paste. Cook for 5 minutes more, then pour in the beans with their liquid, the tomatoes and the stock. Season well and bring to a simmer.
Leave the chilli on a gentle simmer for about an hour or until it has thickened and reduced. Taste for seasoning before serving with rice, tortilla chips, avocado, sour cream, lime wedges, and the coriander leaves.
(Original recipe from BBC Good Food Magazine, January 2024.)
These little savoury diamonds are perfect with aperitifs.
Cheese & tapenade puffs – makes 28-32
1 x 320g ready-rolled puff pastry sheet
2 tbsp black olive tapenade
55g mature Cheddar, grated
1 egg, beaten
55g Parmesan, grated
Place the puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured work surface.
Spread the tapenade over one half of the pastry. Sprinkle the Cheddar cheese over the tapenade then fold the other side of the pastry over to encase the tapenade.
Dust the top of the pastry with a little flour then reroll to the oringal size and shape. Brush the surface with beaten egg and sprinkle over the Parmesan. Very gently roll the rolling pin over the top just to press the cheese into the pastry. Transfer to a tray lined with baking paper and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 200C/180C/Gas 6.
Line 2 baking sheets with non-stick baking paper.
Trim the edges of the rectangle to make it neat, if needed, then divide the pastry into 4 strips vertically. Remove a small triangle from each end, then slice each strip into 6-7 diamond shapes. Chill in the fridge again for just 10 minutes.
Put the diamonds the prepared baking sheets and bake in the hot oven vor about 15 minutes, or until golden brown . Leave to cool slightly on a wire rack and serve warm.
(Original recipe from Mary’s Foolproof Dinners by Mary Berry, Penguin: Random House UK, 2024.)
This is baked in the oven and couldn’t be easier to make. Serve with naan breads.
Butter Paneer – serves 4
FOR THE PANEER:
rapeseed oil
600g hard paneer, cut into large cubes
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
2cm x 2cm ginger, finely grated
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
½ tbsp lemon juice
¾ tsp salt
½ tsp ground turmeric
5 tbsp Greek yoghurt
FOR THE BUTTER SAUCE:
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground cardamom
¾ tsp salt
2 tbsp runny honey
2 x 400g tins finely chopped tomatoes
150ml double cream
1½ tbsp kasoori methi
a slab of butter
Preheat the oven to 200C fan/ 220C/ gas 7.
Line a large, deep baking tray with non-stick baking paper and brush it lightly with oil.
Put the panneer cubes into a large bowl and add half the garlic, half the ginger, the chilli powder, lemon, salt, turmeric and yoghurt. Mix well to coat the paneer, then tip into the lined tray.
Bake the panner in the oven for 25 minutes or until it’s starting to blacken at the edges.
Take the tray out of the oven and stir in 3 tbsp of oil and the rest of the garlic and ginger, then add the spices for the sauce, the salt and the honey. Stir to mix well, then add the tomatoes, making sure the paneer is completely covered. Return to the oven for another 30 minutes.
Remove the tray from the oven and stir through the cream, crumble over the kasoori methi, then stir again and put back in the oven for another 10 minutes. Remove the tray from the oven and stir in the butter. Serve with hot naan breads.
(Original recipe from Dinner by Meera Sodha, Penguin: Fig Tree, 2024.)
This is very rich and delicious so you can serve it in slightly smaller portions. The cooking time is a bit longer than our usual lemon spaghetti but it’s worth it for the flavour and silky texture. Perfect for an indulgent lunch at the weekend.
Wine Suggestion: An oaky white like the Dominio de Tares Old Vine Godello which is fermented with wild yeasts and aged in oak barrels. This makes it more complex, savoury and gtreat with rich, velvety foods like this.
Spaghetti al Limone – serves 6
225ml cream
2 unwaxed lemons (zest of 2 and juice of 1)
100g butter
500g spaghetti
150g grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra to serve
Put the cream and the lemon zest into a large heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes.
Now start adding the butter, about 1 tbsp at a time while stirring continuously. Wait for 30-45 seconds before adding the next tbsp of butter – it should be completely melted before you add any more. Keep going until you have used all the butter and you have a rich sauce. Set aside.
Cook the spaghetti in lots of salty water until al dente. Scoop out a mugful of the pasta water before draining.
Add half the pasta water to the cream sauce and bring to a simmer. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Turn the heat back down to low, then add the cooked spaghetti and toss to coat. Add the Parmesan, 1 tbsp at a time, as you did with the butter and waiting 30-45 seconds between each addition. Stir continuously and add another splash of pasta water if it starts to get stiff. Keep going until all the Parmesan has been added, then pour in the lemon juice and toss once more.
Serve in warm pasta bowls and top with a little extra Parmesan.
(Original recipe from Avoca at Home, Penguin Random House, 2022.)
This is a delicious and rich sauce but it requires duck marylands (the thigh and the leg together) which are not easy to find here. We asked our butcher to portion up some whole ducks for us. Duck breasts are not suitable so do try and get the marylands for this.
Wine Suggestion: A good Tuscan red is a good match to cut through the richness and proteins in this dish. A good dollop for acidity and freshness helps lighten plus tannins to balance. For us tonight a new find, Ridolfi Rosso di Montalcino. Elegant and vibrant with loads of energy, layered subtle fruit and energetic structure. Pure joy.
Duck ragu pappardelle – serves 4
20g dried porcini mushrooms
1.5 litres low-salt chicken stock (it needs to be low-salt as you will reduce it – we made a light stock with two regular chicken stockpots mixed with 1.5 litres of water and that worked fine).
1 tbsp olive oil
4 duck marylands (the thigh and leg together)
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely grated
1 small carrot, coarsely grated
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
375ml red wine
195g tomato passata
½ cinnamon stick
2 star anise
2 bay leaves
½ tsp black pepper
1½ tbsp roughly chopped fresh rosemary
1 tbsp plain flour
15g unsalted butter, softened
400g pappardelle pasta
freshly grated Parmesan, to serve
Put the porcini mushrooms into a small bowl. Pour the stock into a large frying pan and place over a high heat. Bring to the boil, then scoop out 125ml and pour it over the porcini. Leave the porcini to soak for 30 minutes. Lower the heat under the stock to medium-high and reduce to 750ml – this should take about 8 minutes but wise to check now again how much you have with a measuring jug.
Squeeze the excess liquid out of the porcini with your hands and reserve all the liquid. Chop the porcini into tiny pieces, then set aside. Add the soaking liquid to the reduced chicken stock.
Heat the oil in a large casserole over a high heat. Place the duck, skin-side down and cook until golden brown. Turn and brown the flesh side and the sides as well, then transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Pour away all but 3 tbsp of the duck fat, then add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic and cook for 8 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the wine and simmer for 5 minutes to reduce by half. Add the passata, cinnamon, star anise, bay leaves, pepper and stock. Stir everything together.
Submerge the duck in the liquid and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer very gently for 1½, uncovered, checking regularly to ensure the duck stays submerged or at least that the meaty part is in the liquid. After the first hour, add the rosemary and chopped porcini.
Transfer the cooked duck to a bowl and cover loosely with foil. When cool enough to handle, remove the skin and shred the duck flesh with your hands. Discard the skin and bones.
Mix the flour and butter together in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. Stir the mixture into the pot, then simmer for 3 minutes to thicken slightly. Add the duck, then taste and season only if needed. Remove the bay leaf, cinnamon stick and star anise. Keep the ragu warm while you cook the pasta.
Cook the pasta in lots of salty boiling water according to the timings on the pack. Just before draining, scoop out a large mug of the pasta water. Drain the pasta and add to the warm ragu with a splash of the pasta cooking water. Over a medium heat, toss the pasta with two spatulas unil the sauce thickens and coats the pasta. You can add a bit more water if it’s too thick.
Serve in warm bowls with lots of grated Parmesan.
(Original recipe from Recipetin Eats Tonight by Nagi Maehashi, Pan Macmillan, 2024.)
Just a reminder that a big lasagne is a very good thing to have. We sometimes divide it up into smaller dishes and freeze some to finish off cooking another day.
Wine Suggestion: Our personal prejudice here is for Sangiovese every time with Lasagne, though we know this is not the only grape that works. That said we couldn’t go past the Boscarelli “Prugnolo” Rosso di Montepulciano which comes from a lovely hilltop DO in Tuscany.
Lasagne – serves 8
350-400g fresh lasagne sheets
nutmeg
1 ball of mozzarella, torn
FOR THE RAGU:
2-3 tbsp oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, finely chopped
500g beef mince
500g pork mince
175ml red wine
750ml beef stock/chicken stock
2 tbsp tomato purée
2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
1 bay leaf
a sprig of rosemary
FOR THE BECHAMEL:
70g butter
70g plain flour
1 litre whole milk
1 bay leaf
100g Parmesan, freshly grated
Start with the ragu. You need to heat the oil in a large wide pan, then add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and fry gently until softend but not coloured.
Add the bacon, beef and pork and continue frying until the meat has changed colour.
Pour in the red wine and increase the heat so that it comes to the boil. Reduce the heat again and add the stock, tomato purée and tinned tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper and add the bay and rosemary. Leave to cook now over a medium-low heat for about 1½ hours or until you have a rich sauce.
Meanwhile, make the bechamel. Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat, add the flour and stir to make a paste. Cook for a minute, then take the pan off the heat and gradually whisk in the milk until you have a smooth sauce. Add the bay leaf, then return the pan to the heat and bring the boil, stirring constantly. Keep cooking until you have a smooth and thick sauce. Remove the bay leaf and stir in two-thirds of the grated Parmesan and season to taste.
Heat the oven to 180C/Fan 160C.
You will need a deep lasagne dish – about 20 x 30 cm.
Put a large spoonful of the ragu in the bottom of the lasagne dish and add a layer of lasagne sheets. Top with a layer of ragu and a drizzle of bechamel (not a full layer or you will run out), then another layer of lasagne sheets. Keep going like this until you have used up all the ingredients, finishing with a good layer of bechamel. Grate over a little nutmeg, then add the torn mozzarella and the rest of the Parmesan.
Bake for 45-50 minutes or until bubbling and golden brown. Allow to sit for 5-10 minutes when it comes out of the oven so it’s easier to cut. Serve with a green salad and garlic bread if you like.
(Original recipe from Rick Stein’s Food Stories, BBC Books, Penguin: Random House, 2024.)
There is one person in our household of 3 who has decided to be a vegetarian for January. We’re not all joining in as there was far too much other stuff in the freezer but we’re trying to batch cook things like this to keep her going for the month and to avoid her living on koka noodles. This is a simple and lovely dahl. Serve with rice and naan or flatbreads. It is also suitable for those doing veganuary.
Wine Suggestion: We quite like an earthy dahl with a beer and chose a local brew, the Barrelhead Hopsburgh Helles, a creamy pale golden German style lager that’s lovely and smooth.
Cauliflower, lentil & coconut dahl – serves 4 to 6
4 tbsp coconut oil
2 tbsp mustard seeds
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
½ to 1 tsp chilli flakes, to taste
1 medium head of cauliflower, cut into bite-size pieces
180g dried red lentils
1 x 400ml tin coconut milk
400ml tomato passata
600ml water
75g baby spinach
2 tbsp chopped coriander
juice of 1 lemon
Melt the coconut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop.
Add the onion with a large pinch of salt and cook for 10 minutes, until softened but not browned. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute, then add the ground coriander, turmeric, cumin and chilli flakes and cook for another minute.
Add the cauliflower, lentils, coconut milk, tomato passata and water. Stir well and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes or until the lentils and cauliflower are cooked. Give it a stir occasionally to prevent it sticking.
Add the spinach, coriander and lemon juice and season well with salt and pepper.
Serve with rice and daal or flatbreads.
(Original recipe from Avoca at Home, Penguin Random House, 2022.)
This is a quick curry but it still tastes delicious and simple enough to throw together after work.
Thai red salmon curry – serves 2
100g dried rice noodles
350g skinless salmon fillets, cut lengthways into 4 thin pieces
1½ tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp Thai red curry paste
1½ tsp finely grated garlic
1 tsp finely grated ginger
125ml chicken stock
400ml tin coconut milk
2 tsp fish sauce
1 tsp white sugar
4 baby bok choy, leaves separated
1-2 tbsp lime juice, plus wedges for serving
fresh coriander leaves, to serve
red bird’s eye chilli, finely sliced, to serve
Soak the noodles in boiling water according to the pack instructions, then drain and divide between two bowls.
Season the salmon, then heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Cook the salmon for a minute on each side, then transfer to a plate. It doesn’t need to be cooked through yet, just lightly golden on the surface.
Add the curry paste, garlic and ginger to the pan. Cook, stirring continuously, for a minute, then add the chicken stock and simmer rapidly for a minute, stirring to scrape any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the coconut milk, fish sauce and sugar, then simmer rapidly for 2 minutes.
Return the salmon to the pan and push the bok choy in around it. Simmer for 2 minutes, pushing the bok choy into the liquid as it wilts. Once the salmon flakes easily, remove the pan from the heat.
Pour the lime juice over the fish and serve over the noodles. Sprinkle with the coriander and fresh chilli before serving with extra lime wedges.
(Original recipe from Recipetin Eats Tonight by Nagi Maehashi, Pan Macmillan, 2024.)
A delicious fish risotto which also includes Parmesan cheese. We’re firm disbelievers of the “no cheese with fish” rule!
Wine Suggestion: we gravitated to something Spanish for this dish, the Bodegas Castro Martin Albariño, which has the body and texture required to stand up to the richness and intense flavours the dish presents with the the umami pepperiness complimenting the salty/savoury smoked fish.
Smoked haddock & leek risotto – serves 4
50g butter
4 medium leeks, finely sliced
1.25 litres light chicken stock
450g smoked haddock
300g risotto rice
75g Parmesan cheese, finely grated
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the leeks and and gently cook for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring the stock to a gentle simmer in a separate pan.
Put the fish in another pan and enough of the hot stock to cover. Poach for 5 minutes, then remove the skin and discard. Leave the cooked fish in the stock off the heat.
Add the rice to the leeks and stir until coated in the butter. Start adding the stock, a ladle at a time, stirring constantly. Add another ladle when the previous one has been completely absorbed. Keep going for about 20 minutes, then start tasting the rice – you want it to be soft with just a slight bite in the middle. Use the stock in the fish for the last addition of liquid.
Gently break the fish into chunks and stir into the risotto at the last minute, along with 2 tbsp of the Parmesan.
Check the seasoning (you probably won’t need salt) and add plenty of freshly ground black pepper.
Serve immediately with the rest of the Parmesan for sprinkling over.
(Original recipe from Rosast Figs, Sugar Snow by Diana Henry, Aster*, 2023.)
Jono & Jules do food & wine 
